02-18-2008, 09:17 AM
Tony
what do you use to "remove the stock" ?
Cheers
Conal
what do you use to "remove the stock" ?
Cheers
Conal
Conal Moran
Do or do not, there is no try!
Yoda
Do or do not, there is no try!
Yoda
Vindonissa Pompei Blade
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02-18-2008, 09:17 AM
Tony
what do you use to "remove the stock" ? Cheers Conal
Conal Moran
Do or do not, there is no try! Yoda
02-18-2008, 09:20 PM
Conal I use various types of grinders, with various discs. You need a good grinder with a smooth gear box, the one I use at the moment is a Nutool 1000 watt with 4 1/2 " disc its a cheapy so I will see how long it lasts how ever I also have a Bosch industrial 4 1/2" 110v plus 240v.The 110v is my old trusty shipyard one and has been hammered but still going strong D D
Regards Brennivs
Woe Ye The Vanquished
Brennvs 390 BC When you have all this why do you envy our mud huts Caratacvs Centvrio Princeps Brennivs COH I Dacorivm (Roma Antiqvia)
02-18-2008, 10:16 PM
Greetings Tony!
Do you ever use the large commercial beltgrinders found in machineshops? I have worked with one, though not on blades and they chew metal at an alarming rate. I have been thinking of using a handheld belt sander and have a Powerfile by B&D, very thin beltsander projecting out. As is, I want to hammer out the blade first and then finish it using a stone and a sander, much like the Romans did. The hours quoted in Iron for the Eagles is 2 hours smithing and 20 hours finishing! The thing about modern stones is they are often too small in radius and will leave a hollow grind if one is not carefull, unlike the large stones used in Solingen to grind their blades. I am presuming Romans used larger diameter stones as well, but have no data to support that assumption. Idea's?
02-18-2008, 10:21 PM
Oh, and I would really appreciate tips on how best to fix the pommel to the tang the proper way. So far, this eludes me
02-18-2008, 10:49 PM
A ha Robert no problem yes you can use a hand belt sander to flattern off the metal when you have finnished grinding but you need to leave a bit of spare metal along the edge so you can work down to, I feel another helpin hand thread coming here with pics :lol:
Ill Pm you on the handle Regards Brennivs
Woe Ye The Vanquished
Brennvs 390 BC When you have all this why do you envy our mud huts Caratacvs Centvrio Princeps Brennivs COH I Dacorivm (Roma Antiqvia)
02-19-2008, 04:04 AM
Quote:I feel another helpin hand thread coming here with pics Yes please Brennivs
Sulla Felix
AKA Barry Coomber Moderator COH I BATAVORVM MCRPF
02-19-2008, 07:17 PM
Salve Brennius!
Thanks for the info, looking forward to PM. For me it will be bashing as apposed to grinding, but I get the point. As someone once told me, forge thick, grind thin. That's for beginners, I'm sure, as when working with the spearheads I have found it is quite possible to leave a reasonable flat diamond shape with an almost sharp edge. I use a somewhat lighter, flat headed hammer to do the finishing of the edge, heating it to a dull orange to maintain more control as the metal doesn't move as fast when hit. It is a good way of correcting dents from a less then solid whack.
02-19-2008, 09:07 PM
Robert thats it, even if you forge a blade the finishing is down to the grind smith. The skill in forging is to hammer down to a tollerence that cuts down the time taking to grind. I just wished I had photo of a wrought iron knife I did as I still have a rough forged blade to show the difference
I have a short film on Pattern Welding done by my late friend which he did for the BBC we also have the full I think 120 hours on 8mm film it is excellent, he did it at Reading University Museum, I think David Sim was there also. We hope one day to put the film on disc. Regards Brennivs
Woe Ye The Vanquished
Brennvs 390 BC When you have all this why do you envy our mud huts Caratacvs Centvrio Princeps Brennivs COH I Dacorivm (Roma Antiqvia) |
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