02-18-2008, 09:17 AM
Tony
what do you use to "remove the stock" ?
Cheers
Conal
what do you use to "remove the stock" ?
Cheers
Conal
Conal Moran
Do or do not, there is no try!
Yoda
Do or do not, there is no try!
Yoda
Vindonissa Pompei Blade
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02-18-2008, 09:17 AM
Tony
what do you use to "remove the stock" ? Cheers Conal
Conal Moran
Do or do not, there is no try! Yoda
02-18-2008, 09:20 PM
Conal I use various types of grinders, with various discs. You need a good grinder with a smooth gear box, the one I use at the moment is a Nutool 1000 watt with 4 1/2 " disc its a cheapy so I will see how long it lasts how ever I also have a Bosch industrial 4 1/2" 110v plus 240v.The 110v is my old trusty shipyard one and has been hammered but still going strong
![]() Regards Brennivs ![]()
Woe Ye The Vanquished
Brennvs 390 BC When you have all this why do you envy our mud huts Caratacvs Centvrio Princeps Brennivs COH I Dacorivm (Roma Antiqvia)
02-18-2008, 10:16 PM
Greetings Tony!
Do you ever use the large commercial beltgrinders found in machineshops? I have worked with one, though not on blades and they chew metal at an alarming rate. I have been thinking of using a handheld belt sander and have a Powerfile by B&D, very thin beltsander projecting out. As is, I want to hammer out the blade first and then finish it using a stone and a sander, much like the Romans did. The hours quoted in Iron for the Eagles is 2 hours smithing and 20 hours finishing! The thing about modern stones is they are often too small in radius and will leave a hollow grind if one is not carefull, unlike the large stones used in Solingen to grind their blades. I am presuming Romans used larger diameter stones as well, but have no data to support that assumption. Idea's?
02-18-2008, 10:21 PM
Oh, and I would really appreciate tips on how best to fix the pommel to the tang the proper way. So far, this eludes me
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02-18-2008, 10:49 PM
A ha Robert no problem yes you can use a hand belt sander to flattern off the metal when you have finnished grinding but you need to leave a bit of spare metal along the edge so you can work down to, I feel another helpin hand thread coming here with pics :lol:
Ill Pm you on the handle ![]() Regards Brennivs ![]()
Woe Ye The Vanquished
Brennvs 390 BC When you have all this why do you envy our mud huts Caratacvs Centvrio Princeps Brennivs COH I Dacorivm (Roma Antiqvia)
02-19-2008, 04:04 AM
Quote:I feel another helpin hand thread coming here with pics Yes please Brennivs ![]()
Sulla Felix
AKA Barry Coomber Moderator COH I BATAVORVM MCRPF
02-19-2008, 07:17 PM
Salve Brennius!
Thanks for the info, looking forward to PM. For me it will be bashing as apposed to grinding, but I get the point. As someone once told me, forge thick, grind thin. That's for beginners, I'm sure, as when working with the spearheads I have found it is quite possible to leave a reasonable flat diamond shape with an almost sharp edge. I use a somewhat lighter, flat headed hammer to do the finishing of the edge, heating it to a dull orange to maintain more control as the metal doesn't move as fast when hit. It is a good way of correcting dents from a less then solid whack.
02-19-2008, 09:07 PM
Robert thats it, even if you forge a blade the finishing is down to the grind smith. The skill in forging is to hammer down to a tollerence that cuts down the time taking to grind. I just wished I had photo of a wrought iron knife I did as I still have a rough forged blade to show the difference
![]() I have a short film on Pattern Welding done by my late friend which he did for the BBC we also have the full I think 120 hours on 8mm film it is excellent, he did it at Reading University Museum, I think David Sim was there also. We hope one day to put the film on disc. Regards Brennivs ![]()
Woe Ye The Vanquished
Brennvs 390 BC When you have all this why do you envy our mud huts Caratacvs Centvrio Princeps Brennivs COH I Dacorivm (Roma Antiqvia) |
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