Historic Scutum experience

[M. Demetrius]

What about waxing the metal? Would that help keep rust off the surface? Seems like it should. It's a lot of trouble to de-rust one, without getting rust on the paint.

[marsvigilia]

I have been meaning to try beeswax over milk paint for some time. But never got around to it.

This goes back to an old theory of mine to explain why the same shield could be described as having milk paint in one report and encaustic paint in a different report.

Do you think setting the shield right in front of a campfire would be sufficient to melt the wax into running smoothly?

Congratulations, it looks great.

[Gallus Marinus Micarius]

My umbo is tinned bronze and edging is brass, so I shouldn't have rust issues (at least on this piece of equipment)!

And getting it waxed by setting the scutum next to a campfire fire would be tough...maybe in the day time so you could see what you're doing, but I'm doubtful...the butane torch was the perfect tool, so maybe the ancient equivant was a hot piece of metal held close to the section you're working on.

[sulla felix]

Very nice job. I wonder if in ancient times there was a natural additive of some description that made the beeswax easier to apply and work with? Obviously in more recent times turpentine or white spirit can be added to beeswax. I have done this myself on old oak beams and the results are fantastic.

[Magnus]

Do you think setting the shield right in front of a campfire would be sufficient to melt the wax into running smoothly?

You could also try a heat gun Tony.

[Hibernicus]

You could also use a tinners soldering iron to reheat the wax...

Or an historic cloth iron

[Hibernicus]

Now on to the polishing!

Take a very slick polished stone and burnish the wax facing to bring out a super glossy shine.

[marsvigilia]

Do you think setting the shield right in front of a campfire would be sufficient to melt the wax into running smoothly?

You could also try a heat gun Tony.

Yep. I've got one of those and no where to build a good camp fire. My wife simply won't agree to open fires in the living room. A real stickler about such things she is.

I was more thinking of Romans in a field camp or small fort repairing and rebuilding their own shields.

[Matthew Amt]

Ray's shield is milk paint with a wax coating, Tony. Take a look at it this weekend if he makes it. I waxed the face of my wooden Bronze Age shield, too, to keep the red ochre from smearing:

http://www.larp.com/hoplite/Cloon10.jpg

Vale,

Matthew

[Magnus]

Where can you get large amounts of beeswax? The place I go has small 2" diameter mini cakes of it...but it's not cheep.

Too bad you can't use earwax...I'd be set.

[M. Demetrius]

Where can you get large amounts of beeswax?

Try a store that sells candlemaking supplies, if such exists where you are.
Beeswax should be available in larger blocks than the ones that the sewing machine likes around.

See? I'm getting better. My first thought-up answer was "wherever there are large amounts of bees", but I resisted until the end. Heh. :lol:

[marsvigilia]

Michaels Crafts store also carries Beeswax in both natural and bleached. On a thin coating like this natural would probably work just fine.

This is great. I am going to have to try also.

[Magnus]

See? I'm getting better. My first thought-up answer was "wherever there are large amounts of bees", but I resisted until the end. Heh. :lol:

Yeah, but I was expecting that...now I've been left hanging. lol

[Hibernicus]

BEESWAX.. in the USA..
...also try: Artists and Craftsman Supply.. the local store has huge blocks of beeswax.. 10-15 lbs.... The filtered or "whiter" beeswax leaves a clearer finish but the "natural" beeswax has an interesting patina that you might find more desireable.

[Robert]

Back on the glue issue: is hide glue and bone glue (at least I hope "beenderlijm" translates to that) the same thing? :roll: