Oh, people will tell you many things Sam
My first anvil was a piece of rail road track that we used for a door stop at work, I replaced it with a brick and still use it as much as my *real* anvil.
A forge for blade making ( heat treating is another matter) is also very simple.
You only need to heat small sections at a time to shape the blade so even a large can filled with refractory and a hole cut for your burner ( I use gas ) will work.
That being said, you appear to be well on your way using stock removal, and when you "tool up" you will probably have even better results, a bench mounted sander or even better belt grinder wil give you much more control of your work piece, you'll wonder how you did without one.
One tip, where the tang and blade meet,can't tell from the pics for sure but, you might want to radius the sharp angle just a bit for structural strength if you are going to put the sword to any heavy use.
On forging I wouldn't say banging, for me feeling the steel move under the hammer and, watching it change is like a tonic.
Grinding feels like just well, work lol
But, that's just me. Always say it's about the results and, don't think a good stock removal blade is anything less than a forged one just because it wasn't made *my way*.
I can understand where you are coming from Dave, thanks!
Grinding really is a lot of back breaking work! haha
To your tip, which method are you talking about, here is a diagram. I would be unable to increase width of the spine, though I am sure you are talking about method A. as it provides support for the shoulders.
I am not sure if I would try changing that. I had thought about that, and it seems like a good idea, though looking at some originals, they are without and seem to have survived very well through their usages.
I also thought that the hilt could have a better flat fit with a flat angular shoulder.
Option A, is what I had in mind.
You could do it with a round file comming down on the shoulder but, the tang you have really looks like it will be fine as is, would take some serious force to damage that as long as it has been annealed or, spring tempered.
On your next one when you draw out the tang shape on your stock a quick easy way to get a radius is th drill a small hole at the spot then cut to it, esp. if you go with a smaller tang for any reason.
One thing I'm finding out is a pompeii type without a metal guard plate was not that rare.
Seeing some original guards where the *shoulder* of the blade is set into the guard slightly.
Believe it's a modern misconception to think there MUST be metal between the shoulder and the guard, even on swords that have the plate it's almost to thin to be more than decorative.
Touched up your pic a bit to show what I was saying about drilling then cutting to the holes.
Just a small amount of radius adds signifigant strength to the design.
Oh darn! I did actually drill holes creating what you said, but when I cut up to them, I filed in the angle. The reason why I drilled the (small) holes was to make sure that the disk cutter did not cut into the tang, causing it to become severely weakened.
The next step for the tang is to just taper it down, as due to grinding, the tang is less thick closer to the blade than it is where the guard will fit. This will cause gaps to be seen, so I must taper the tang on it's horizontal depth.
You are absolutely 100% right on the guard thought. It is true that metal plates on the Pompeii type guards is non-existent. I do have a recess in my guard, with space between the blade shoulder and the inner ridge.
That's just how it always goes Sam :grin: we put in extra work to *fix* something to latter find out,it wasn't broken.
At least you didn't do what I have many times and, ruin your project. Really think that tang has enough *beef* that it will not be a problem.
What you were saying about grinding your tang %100 yes and, not just for a clean fit up,for structural integrity,want the thickest part of the blade to be where the tang and blade connect everything else going thinner from that point in both directions.
So here is tonight's work, with a step back as I had to remake the grip for the hilt completely. Hollowed out too much, making the wood too thin. When doing a job, do it right!! Especially for the customer l :-P
I further sanded down the tang so now it is giving perfect fit for the hilt. I also heated the tang up then quenching it in order to not only make it rust proof, but also a little stronger.
Everything seems a good fit.
Now need my hands on some leather. What do you guys recommend, pigskin, or cow leather? Veggie of course 8-)
In the first two photos is the leather that I already have. I think that it is chemically treated, and seems to mark easily.
What type of steel did you use? If you heated it above critical temp and quenched it in water and it's high carbon it is about as brittle as glass right now :-o
Heat it back to a cherry red and, let it cool slowly, for a tang you want tough,not hard.
As far as the leather can't tell for sure from the pic but, looks like it may be thin veg tanned that has been dyed can you get a shot of the cut edge?
No worries Dave. I believe the gentleman that sold it to me at the metal yard, said it was either high carbon. I have bad memory but I wouldn't have bought anything suspecting.
Now I shall explain. I heated it to the point where the metal changed color. It never glowed, and I used my stove. ( take off the flame cover and you have a gas torch ) So, it only made a nice sizzle when quenched, which I did twice. And after each time I tapped it with a tap hammer to make sure it would not snap on me. Yesterday I studied about heating and hardening steel. As it become harder and have less plastic, it becomes more brittle. When heated to a glow and slowly cooled, steel holds a higher bending capability.
I did this mostly for the rust proof factor.
If you suggest that I heat it again, and let it slowly cool ( even though it never glowed) I shall eagerly take your advice!
