So, tonight I made the other cross hanger, I did it quite quickly, but not rashly or badly, more just from getting used to stamping. And learning easier ways of bending the hoops. I don't think things could be more exact or precise without looking suspicious and unoriginal. Infact I think it's better than the other one as there was less messing around, so looks more pro-like. I have to get a pair of pliers and squeeze the lower, todays cross hanger together at the start of the loops, thus decreasing their ratio and adding rivet room. I'd like an example for this "center piece" that the lower cross hanger will sit around, as a base. Uh, like you've seen on some scabbards with no full side guttering. Anyways, Crispvs, I am sorry, it might be me, but I'll have to take time to desolve your reply. Thanks for the help
Also, I slightly broke through on one of the dots. It thinned after polishing
I know it's been a while! But I'm still around making slow progress. I have conquered riveting almost to a fine "t" and that's making my rivets myself. Ball-peen really helps
Anyway, so I've added a back plate, got hold of four suspension rings ( look suitable?) I know my loops for them are a bit big :oops: BUT I did my best, and I HAVE seen all sizes. Some that don't even look like loops...
So I finalized those two cross hangers and for the lower one, I need examples or ideas, on a brass plate ( decorative?) to put under it... might be reminding you of a Mainz too much, but I am a Fulham, in between the Mainz and Pompeii.
I use wire wool or cotton ( very fine) to polish my metal, works great on the metal, but not the leather!! Got to be careful. In the future with the metal being secured to the leather scabbard, I'll have to try out Demetrius's ashes method
I am still also debating whether to put a "nail" through the scabbard and peen it over the back to support the locket plate ( and all the sword's weight from the cross hangers) or use the "concealed" rivet method and use small nails that don't go through the scabbard. Any easiest suggestions?
Anyway, more updates coming soon hopefully. I also might plan on a little soldering on some loose pieces.
I would not polish away some of these scratches. I do not think that their stuff would have been so shiny, perfect, and surface flawless the way many modern scabbard reproductions are made. I think that major scratches may have been done away with but small scratches such as these micro scratches would have been present. They could get mirror finishes on objects like mirrors but I do not think this would have been true for such small objects such as a chape or locket.
I think it would look more realistic if it has some manufacturing imperfections that came from a hand made object i.e.
the punch marks are not perfectly spaced or lined, the decoration be it a figure, flower, etc would not be perfectly proportionate or symmetrical. Have a good look at many originals and you will see that perfection was not the main priority. Roman gear was well made BUT not perfect.
Just my two cents.
"You have to laugh at life or else what are you going to laugh at?" (Joseph Rosen)
Oh wow time flies!!!
Well here I am with some more progress! I think it's quite an important part now as I have finished the brass work for the upper scabbard. All soldering done, and nailing to secure. I'm not far off finishing the lower scabbard but I'm still trying to get hold of a terminal knob...so far it's been 15 minutes every night for the past week, and I've had to make things for people, such as leather bracelets with brass or copper plates on them with quotes and I'd make a very nice buckle just like a good old roman one
AH so why delay the update with useless talk,...here we go...
Now it may not look like a big difference, but there's been a lot of cleaning, and polishing involved too, which has made a nice finish to the metal. As it was a first and taken some hanging onto it did have some tool markings which have been rid off. So that does it, comments welcome, and I'll try to get on with the lower scabbard asap! busy busy busy!
Alright! Here we go again, thought much closer to the finish line this time!
I have taken aboard new skills, and technique methods which will save you some money, allow you to accomplish your goal, and cost you little extra time!
Here are some pictures... Might not seem like a lot, but it is a huge breakthrough for me, and I've only got like, 2 more steps to do and I'm finished.
( I will note how I made the terminal knob after listed steps)
Step #1 ( completed) is the terminal knob for the chape. It has two groves, and follows a Pompeii type chape. I have re-made the front cross plate, which is with the two grooves, as I wasn't happy with my riveting on the first one seen on previous pictures, also the hammer marks, so I did it again, maybe 3 times as quick, and a lot "cleaner" too! The only piece on the chape that is soldered is the knob, which is soldered with plumbers solder, much stronger than tin!
Step #2 ( next on list) I will be going to Ace Hardware tomorrow to buy Boiled Linseed oil. I can't find raw, so this'll have to do. It will be to put the finish on my handle. A nice gloss. I re-sanded it, rough-fine, which the fine smoothed it off nicely. The finished result I predict will please me well. I also bought Brasso, which works a charm. (Thanks Crispvs.)
Step #3 I have to make the terminal knob for the pommel. I will use the same method as for the other terminal knob, but I haven't fully decided on a design. I'm not sure what piece of brass to use either. I have bought solid brass items. Plugs ARE good for this and are solid brass. In my uploaded photo you'll see my resources, and also some bronze and a chromed rings, which I'll use for making belt plates, also following Crispvs' description method in another thread.
I made the terminal knob from a brass item used for plumbling, that had an inside concave thread, and was hexagonal on the outside. I got a chisel ( punch- circular) and tapped it inside the threaded end. I then put the chisel inside one of my drills, bigger than normal drills,( for masonry?) and this automatically became a lathe with maybe 20 speeds! I viced it down and began rounding the outside first, second step is to round the flat end round into a half ball ( careful not to breach the hollow inside!) I then stopped the drill, and got a metal cutting saw. I sawed in careful, appropriate "ditches" to guide the saw when the drill is spinning, helping to prevent an unguided saw making damage to your piece. I then completed the two shallow ring-diches. Used the same method to saw completely though, cutting the piece the correct length from the rest of the stock, finishing the piece. Please note that to carve out the piece I used files mostly, a shard blade for a tester, and the various degrees of sand paper. Last I used Brasso, all while spinning AND BEFORE I cut off the stock. I turned the finished piece upside down, stuck it in the "chuck," and got a chisel, and carved out the inside walls flat and at an angle! I didn't have my camera working so I couldn't show you pictures
For my next pommel terminal knob, I am welcoming design ideas ( suitable to make from my resources) and any further adivce.
please not that the camera when using flash ( can't take a decent pic otherwise) shows a lot of detail that you can't see with the naked eye. Such as, the micro scratches you see on the chape, is mostly caused by polishing, Brasso etc. With the naked eye, it looks like a smooth shine, like in a couple other pictures.
So the sword if finished. On the chape I haven't nailed it onto the scabbard at all, or yet, and I don't know if I should because it's on there and won't budge. Everything is done, as good as it can get. I'll post new photos tonight later, maybe tomorrow.
So here's the final product Unless it's strongly suggested to nail the chape in, I ain't doing anythin more to this thing!!! Here's some pictures, and any feed back is welcome
About belt plates I'm thinking of making a stamp of circular dies as I tried the punching individual rings method and it didn't work a charm. Will start new topic when starting progress.
Regarding the attachment of the chape, we actually do not know how the Romans attached their chapes. Many modern reconstructions use the simple expedient of replacing the rivets which attach the bracing plate at the back with small nails which are driven into the scabbard body. The Romans did not do this however and where nails are often used on reconstructions, rivets were used on the originals. The best guess therefore, is that they were simply glued on. This is what I did with mine and it seems to be working very well.
On the matter of the belt plates, sorry to hear that your first attempt did not go well. As a further suggestion, try using a smaller inner ring. The one I saw in the photo you posted up seemed to rest on top of the outer ring rather than fully inside it. This may or may not solve your problem but it is certainly worth trying before you go to the trouble of making a one piece former (which will take time, believe me).
Crispvs
Who is called \'\'Paul\'\' by no-one other than his wife, parents and brothers. :!: <img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_exclaim.gif" alt=":!:" title="Exclamation" />:!:
Quote:Iron and bronze alloys are different! I understand tha cooling it either fast with hot water or letting it cool slowly produce the same effect! Working the the brass while hot will cause it to shatter though!
So I have been led to believe!
Cooling iron in water will harden it!
Correct me if I'm wrong,anyone!
I work a lot with steel and brass making knives and sabers. Steel and brass work in opposite ways. Cooling steel slowly makes it soft but cooling brass slowly hardens it. The oposite is also true. Fast cooling of steel will harden it but fast cooling of brass will actually soften it. I would not advise water though as the cooling may be too fast and will also not occur uniformly as some spots of the brass will be touching water while other parts will be encased in hot steam for a second or two. This may cause warping and in severe cases cracking. A boiling saturated solution of salt water will be less detrimental. I normally cool the brass by placing it on a cold anvil or any bulky piece of steel. The cold steel will draw the heat out of the brass quick enough to soften it without you running the risk of causing damage by dunking in water.
I think I must agree with Chal where he allows brass to cool slowly on a block of cold steel which is the way I prefer and a lot depends on the type of brass one may be working with.
I do like what is commonly known as 70/30 brass for almost all the things I have made over the years.
I do have an original scabbard chape from an early spartha that was fitted to the scabbard with a nail going into the front of the chape and through into the wood.
I can't at this time put up a picture of it but will do so soon with of course my reproduction of it.
Unless it's strongly suggested to nail the chape in, I ain't doing anythin more to this thing!!! Here's some pictures, and any feed back is welcome 
