Lorica segmentata leathering

[sulla felix]

Mark/number all the parts BEFORE you dismantle so that re-assembling is done in the right sequence - particularly important if the seg is made with girth hoops of differing lengths as some are (gets that nice tapered look).

[Peroni]

The correct tools help too! A powerfile is a bonus for getting the backs off the rivets in seconds before punching them out.

If you are using standard domeheaded rivets - get the right rivet set tool for the size of head you are using.

Using copper roofing nails negates the use of washers on the leather side. Simply use the large flat head of the nail by passing it through from the inside and peening on the outer face of the plate.

[Caballo]

Thanks guys- and wish me luck...

[Marcus Julius]

I did skip some posts, so apologies if it's been suggested and missed, but I do have one thought: I had always understood that the more common leather in use was goat. Everyone here seems to be discussing cowhide. Has anyone tried goathide? I have used some in other applications and thinner goat seems to be as durable and strong as thicker cowhide. I have not done any real scientific testing to compare the two, though.

[Peroni]

No doubt about it, goat leather is stronger and more flexible than calf or cow leather. However, Goat leather has a lot more stretch in it than calf or cow, so a segmentata would end up like a long concertina after a few wears.

[M. Demetrius]

A lot of how the leather turns out has to do with how it's tanned. Veg tanned cowhide (or other animal hide) doesn't stretch the same way as goat, deer, elk or I suppose other animals like them. Deerskin/goatskin is very elastic along the long grain, so it's good for clothing. It's not good for belts or straps, though. Veg tanned goat might be, but I don't know.

Are there any finds of the remains of straps that have been checked to see what kind of leather they were?