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Advice on removing rust from Lorica Segmentata
#1
Salvete!

I have a set of Albion Lorica Segmentata that has been in storage (improperly unfortunately) for a number of years and has developed some considerable patches of rust. Some of the leather is a bit dried out as well, but seems intact.

Any advice to the best method to go about removing the rust? Am I better of starting with fine steel wool, or should I use progressively finer grades of sandpaper? Is it safe to use a drill w/sanding disk? I'm guessing I'll end up with a "satin" finish at the end - is polishing possible after that point (and would it be worth it)?

Any advice for reconditioning the leather? Neatsfoot oil enough?

Thanks!!

Adrian
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#2
I've had good results using "Krud Kutter - The Must for Rust." It has a cheesy name, but it worked for me with much less effort than the steel wool and oil I was using.

http://www.amazon.com/KUTTER-MR32-32-Oun...t+for+rust
Joe Balmos
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#3
Joe - Interesting, will have to think of that.

Adrian - Any of those/all of those will work. I'd say visit Auto repair shops for medium to super fine grades of sandpapers. I don't think you'd need to start with a particular coarse grade, a medium to fine should do the trick.

You could also try the 'medieval version' of using scrapers (there are images of armorers/polishers with crescent-shaped scrapers, although what they were made of and particular technique I don't know much about)

Satin finish is pretty good, and may be more "accurate" than we tend to think of today. We have some mentions of armor "shining in the sun" and Josephus mentioning the armor was shined up "to an extra sheen" during the pay-day parade before the siege of Judea. It may indicate that every-day wear the armor wasn't "mirror polish", and that may not have ever been an esthetic for the Romans anyway. Rust-free, satin metal will shine pretty darned brightly in the sun. (who knows it could have been a "safety feature" keeping it a satin finish to reduce glare and flash-blindness?)

Pumice might have been used as well as brick dust or ash powder historically. AFAIC, there is no one solution, whatever will work best for you.

FWIW I also use [medicinal safe] mineral oil instead of machine or 3-1 oil, slightly less 'toxic' and no real odor.

Also, you may never really get rid of some deep pitting and 'crackle' lines without really re-surfacing the metal. But, considering this stuff was all made by hand and without modern machinery and tolerances/quality control, I wouldn't worry about it being "perfect" smooth, etc.
Andy Volpe
"Build a time machine, it would make this [hobby] a lot easier."
https://www.facebook.com/LegionIIICyr/
Legion III Cyrenaica ~ New England U.S.
Higgins Armory Museum 1931-2013 (worked there 2001-2013)
(Collection moved to Worcester Art Museum)
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#4
"Also, you may never really get rid of some deep pitting and 'crackle' lines without really re-surfacing the metal. But, considering this stuff was all made by hand and without modern machinery and tolerances/quality control, I wouldn't worry about it being "perfect" smooth, etc. "

I always wondered about that. Given the hard use that most Roman army equipment undoubtably recieved, particualry while on active campaiagn combined with the materials, nature of manufacture, etc. I imagine most legionaries kit was pretty banged up. Scratched, scuffed, pitted and dinged Lorica (and helmets for that matter) and scarred sheilds must have been common place.

I suspect there was no gaurentee that even a new recruit was gettinging brand new gear. I can hear the quartermaster...

"Next! Whats this then? A proby? Hmmmm.... well you seem to be the same size as old Quintus. Shame 'bout him. He was a good man, though terrible at dice. Well, his lorica is cleaned and all pactched up now, and he won't be needing it anymore. Now for a helmet....."

Adrian
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#5
A handful of sand is another field-expedient rust remover.

What kinds of oil would be available on the march for rust prevention? Olive and other vegetable oils dry gummy. Fresh or rendered pork fat works well but can attract bugs--and salted pork products (bacon or sausage) introduce a rust accelerant.
Steve in WA

Pone hic aliqua ingeniosum.
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#6
(09-08-2015, 05:42 PM)Creon01 Wrote: I've had good results using "Krud Kutter - The Must for Rust." It has a cheesy name, but it worked for me with much less effort than the steel wool and oil I was using.

http://www.amazon.com/KUTTER-MR32-32-Oun...t+for+rust

Hey, I came across this post last week and went out and got Krud Kutter to put on a Roman helmet I have as a rust preventative. I wasn't aware it would change the shiny finish to completely dull. Any advice on restoring the shiny finish?
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#7
I use some kind of scourer but if the rust is too deep Dremel or just a drill with sandpaper
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