New larger cheek plates

[muskitear]

A lot of people have the problem of deepeeka cheekguards being too short...

The H and G were deveoped by Armae if you remember - Why they chose such a short cheek guard I don't know, but there are a lot of original pieces out there that are approximately the same size as the reconstruction. Personally, I too thing the H guards are too short, but each to their own. :wink: I would swap the G guards onto the H.

(I happen to have a spare set of G guards if anyone needs a pair! PM me.)

Like the imago Mike! coming along nicely!

Cheers Ade are we going to have the pleasure of your company this season...Or maybe you wil have the pleasure of ours :wink:
Thats a nice crest on your avatar. Some of our lads have the ones with the longer tail..I rather fancy one mesen

[muskitear]

LEG II AVGVSTA (UK)[attachment=0:1ylubgi1]<!-- ia0 p0000823.jpg<!-- ia0 [/attachment:1ylubgi1]

I cannot be seen in this piccy

[Tim Edwards]

Good work there Mike!

Crikey, that picture is a blast from the past - 1999 in Tarragona! (I'm in the back somewhere...)

[jvrjenivs]

Got back to my workshop today, and managed to finish the last cheek piece for my new helmet. Still have to clean it up. (also note on this one I didn't use a hole to hold it into place, as the battery of my drill was empty Took some more effort to start with...)

[muskitear]

Thats looking good. I fact I think you did better than me arond the sharp curves.

Was down at the group workshop today taking stuff back I had worked on and as usual I came away with more projects.
I have more of their stuff than they have!!!
We have now adopted the new Cearleon shield and are phasing out the Duro Europa
We get them blank/white and brass edged. Unfortunately we have to strip the brass/save it/ Then we shamfer the edge of the shield to make the edge rounder instead of square. The reason for this the brass is round edged and the board is square. Hence contant dropping of the shield on the bottom edge makes it follow the wood and it goes flat
Our way the brass pushes on further and stops the damage.
They then have to be painted both sides/brass refitted/ New umbo/ 2 capricorn symbols/two arrows/ 4 'L' shaped corner pieces. I have brought back 7 and ill post one as its done.

[muskitear]

Good work there Mike!

Crikey, that picture is a blast from the past - 1999 in Tarragona! (I'm in the back somewhere...)

Hi Tim I missed you scrolling up. Nearly logged out
Thats a good piccy I stole that from the website. I need to impress upon my RAT friends we are bling!!

[Gaius Julius Caesar]

Thats a good point on the edging! I have noticed some shields come with squarish edging.
I was thinking about the work required to rond the edge and utilise the existing edging, i.e. making it rounded.
It might be a feasible project!

[muskitear]

Thats a good point on the edging! I have noticed some shields come with squarish edging.
I was thinking about the work required to rond the edge and utilise the existing edging, i.e. making it rounded.
It might be a feasible project!

Carefully grind off the rivets and pop them with a punch. Make sure you are resting on a firm base the edge of a log or bench. as the shield bounces when you hitting the punch. As the rivets come thru pull them carefully wth snips, Straighten the brass as necessary DONT hit the edge. Using a sander sand off the sharp corners BOTH sides, If you have fabric on the shield let the sander sand AWAY taking the fabric with it or it will lift back towards the shield. When you have chamferred both sides pull off the remaing fabric stuck to the edge..It will look like string. Carefully round off the edge. DONT sand too deeply or you will have excess brass overlapping. Do your painting or whatever then try your edging bit by bit to ensure consistent fit. The holes will be in a different place as the brass goes on further. You DONT have to rivet. punch brass pins thru then bend them over with a little nip on the end causing it to bite into the wood.
A lotta writing for a simple job but ensure you take your time or you will stuff the edge up and the brass will not follow the shape. Good Luck Comrade

[Gaius Julius Caesar]

Thanks, I have a Republican to try, only top and bottom edging so should be agood starter!

[PhilusEstilius]

Where Jurjen has mentioned how he does his brass edging on cheekplates I use a simple method for finding the length of brass needed to do this.
It is where I use a stiff leather thong which can be held against the very edge of the cheekplate, one holds it in position at the top front with finger and thumb, then moving along the edge with the other fingers it can be nipped and held as it is taken around all the way to the rear top edge and this gives the approx' length needed then give another 5mm to that length and this way one is not messing around with a long length of brass.

As he has also mentioned it is sheet brass made into a U shape which can be made from 0-6mm at 15mm wide, with a line drawn down the center of the strip this can be bent over in a vice but only to 45 degrees. With the strip all bent to this angle it can now be queezed gently in the vice jaws and it will become U shaped.

Then also as he has mentioned a 2mm hole needs to be drilled in one end then after annealing one begins with the front edge first, however the strip needs to be bent outward so it can be fitted to the top front edge where one can now mark the cheekplate thro' the 2mm hole and drill that at 2mm.

Then with a 2mm rivet just held in it one can now work the strip around the front top curve, if it starts to become difficult stop remove the strip and re-anneal but only in the area where it has become difficult maybe about 4 or 5 cm. There is a good method for getting the inside curve at the cheek area and this is to take the U strip from the top outer curve to the lower and tap with a hammer inbetween these high points but not with the hammer head use the shank of the hammer just back from the head. It is also handy to have a flat edge srewdriver to open the U edge now and then with also a pair of pliers handy to just nip and tuck here and there but not to tight just gentle so the strip can be removed some more for maybe re-annealing if needed. It is better to do the difficult front curves first and after that the rear area just rolls around easy, then with the rear curve of the cheekplate the whole strip can be removed and the last 2 or 3 cm need to be re-annealed.