Lorica Segmentata Bending Jig

[Hibernicus]

Here are some photos of the lorica segmentata bending jig we use.

It employes 1 sturdy workbench, 2 pipe clamps, 2 C clamps and a length of board.

pipe clamps: http://www.woodcraft.com/images/products/15I01_230.jpg
- available at any good hardware store or woodworking store

Sets up in about 2 minutes, uses equipment that has multiple uses and stores away in a very small space. I used to use a shaped 2x4 (rounded leading edge) but it kept getting lost or used for something else. I've since learned that any sturdy board will do. You may also want to drape a cloth or leather scrap over the board to reduce scratches.

I assemble torso sections flat then shape them using the jig. The tie loops are assembled flat as well and then curled afterwards

It takes maybe 5 minutes at most to shape a torso half... a little faster if the metal is not tempered. The tinning process tempers the steel plates making them a bit harder to bend by hand as a unit. But, eitherway it goes quick!

Here you go...

Picture 1 is the assembly mounted on the bench



Pictures 2, 3 & 4 are detail shots
http://rlqm.com/LegioIXHispana.bendingj ... jig.02.jpg
http://rlqm.com/LegioIXHispana.bendingj ... jig.03.jpg
http://rlqm.com/LegioIXHispana.bendingj ... jig.04.jpg

Pictures 5 & 6 are the jig in use
http://rlqm.com/LegioIXHispana.bendingj ... jig.05.jpg
http://rlqm.com/LegioIXHispana.bendingj ... jig.06.jpg

Place the flat torso half into the slot between the bench and the board and with your hands bend the torso half towards your self. Move the torso half as needed to bend it at various points. I like to start by putting a gradual bend into the torso half then go back and deepen it.. and then repeat as needed.

[Neuraleanus]

I'm trying to visualize how your jig is actually used. Could you post a series of pictures of the torso section being bent on the jig?

[Hibernicus]

As per Lee's request see photos 5 & 6

Sean/Hibernicus

[Neuraleanus]

Gratias. Now I understand.

[sulla felix]

Stopped bending them over your knee then Hib?

How do you get the tie loops work hardened (hammered) so that they do not easily unravel again - that must be difficult if you fit them flat to the girth plates, then curve and then...? Just curious.

[Hibernicus]

Nice question Barry.

1st: I can still bend them over my knee! Takes longer.. hands are sore longer... somebody once said something to me about age and worn out parts... when I look in my freezer at the shelf full of chemical ice packs for cooling off the forearms after or rather between forging episodes.. 15 minutes of forge work 15 minutes of icepack... I think I have to believe them! ....and that's when you learn to forge out a pilum head from square stock in 15-20 minutes instead of an hour... argh!


2nd: to your question: I use a tool.. see the photo:

http://rlqm.com/LegioIXHispana.misctool ... ler.01.jpg

An old screwdriver with a slot cut into the head for flat tie plates.. a wider one for round tie plates.... Reshaped the screwdriver head a bit, made it squarer to make a better roll.. Use it like a sardine can opener.

Easy as pie.

[sulla felix]

LOL

Neat use of an old screwdriver. What I was really getting at was that the brass would be annealed (presumably) and would only become hard again through work hardening (hammering). Do you have any trouble with these loops un-rolling because they are not work hardened?

[Hibernicus]

We no longer anneal the brass.

We hammer the brass, planish it, before bending it.

Chisel cut the fitting's shapes first, then planish, then file edges and openings as needed.

The only parts of fittings that we work hot are the buckle hoops and tongues..... and the flat ends of round looped tie plates.

By planishing (and thus hardening), then rolling the flat ended tie plates we experience minimal unrolling under great duress. As we use several of our segmentatas for full contact simulated combat, a strong rolled end of a tie plate is crucial!

[sulla felix]

So how do you work the brass if you do not anneal it? I have (accidentally) worked brass that is not annealed and it splits/fractures. Perhaps you are using brass that has already been annealed during manufacture?

[Gaius Julius Caesar]

Strange this annealing brass. I have worked it both unannealed, annealed, and while it was still fairly hot, and have not had it split.

I have had heavy brass rod/punches split offshore, when hammering the mushroomed end back in a bit, but not significantly. :?

[Hibernicus]

The brass (copper alloy) I use is QQ-B-613.. also known as C260.. also known as "cartridge brass"

I'm fairly certain its the most common sheet brass at metal shops, etc.

Maybe it's the way I bend it?