The first finnish made Scorpio- Complete!

[AuxArcher]

Aitor, the heel pads indeed are there to obsorbe the shock of the arms as the move forward and the bolt / arrow is sent down range.

But, the very early machines, as far as I can gather, didn't have that at all. I have Marsden, Historical Development, open on my desk. According to his theory, the "Mark III" machines (page 20, illustration 10) had center stancheons that went all the way flush to the front edges of of the hole carriers. The little Xanten machine has the same feature - the center stanchions are flush all the way forward, and further, have the iron plating is there, preventing the ends of the bow arms from touching where the heal pads would go.

Is that because the earlier machines were lower powered than the newer ones? And by how much?

When building a traditional wooden hand bow, the rule of thumb is to make the string 4x the weight of the bow. In other words, if you have a 100 lb. bow, the string has to be rated at 400 lbs. A 30 lb. bow requires a 120 lb. string. A 150 lb. bow, 600 lbs. If the string breaks, the bow can break very violently as the tips move past where they should, not a good situation.

[JVL]

Auxarcher is correct on the matter that I should build a new frame. I however think that I wont be reusing the parts from this frame... I'll make myself a completely new ash frame, which should be also a bit thicker at certain points thus making it sturdier(and a lot heavier). The reason why I am not reusing the parts from the recent frame, is the colour of the wood that would be different because the grain of the two different materials(ash&birch). The new frame will cost very much for me I think, and that's why I would like this one fixed so that it would work with half power... and I could therefore use the frame quite normally, with reasonable power. The recent birch-frame isn't really that badly damaged, the cracks aren't in the weight bearing parts. It would be nice to be able to shoot with it while I'm building the new frame for it.

The other option is the metalframe...

[aitor iriarte]

Dane,

Marsden and Schramm before him couldn't interpretate correctly Heron's diagrams for the euthytone because they hadn't the Cremona, Caminreal or Xanten remains at hand like we have.
I think that the centre stanchions flush with the front face of the frame is the correct picture.
Notwithstanding, now matter how more or less proficiently the energy stored in the springs is used, the arms' heels still have to hit the centre stanchions after the discharge and SOMETHING (a notch, a pad, we shan't know for sure until a real wooden frame is recovered ) will be needed there to absorb the impact.

Aitor

[JVL]

Well, I found out that the local lumber yard doesn't sell ash in the kind of form which I need, they only sell thin pieces and bigger pieces cannot even be ordered. There is a boat-making company nearby, I'll have to check if they have thicker stuff and the lumber yard staff suggested that they might have some, but it is questionable.

So I might have to settle to just repairing this frame, or go to the local scrap yard for metal...

[AuxArcher]

Dane,

Marsden and Schramm before him couldn't interpretate correctly Heron's diagrams for the euthytone because they hadn't the Cremona, Caminreal or Xanten remains at hand like we have.
I think that the centre stanchions flush with the front face of the frame is the correct picture.
Notwithstanding, now matter how more or less proficiently the energy stored in the springs is used, the arms' heels still have to hit the centre stanchions after the discharge and SOMETHING (a notch, a pad, we shan't know for sure until a real wooden frame is recovered ) will be needed there to absorb the impact.

Aitor

Aitor, I think perhaps an inset pad at some sort of angle in the two inner stanchions that are flush all the way to the outside front as well as back of the hole carriers seems to make sense to me. That is assuming the inner stanchions have front faces fully flush with the hole carrier fronts and backs (I hope that made sense).

If so, do you think that there should be additional wood, even slightly, to compensate for the weakness you would introduce into the inner stanchions, much like the bulbous wood on the outer stanchions to compensate for the cutouts? That would be a really different looking frame than any I have seen yet. It would almost look like two thinner outer stanchions set backward into the frame, if I am imaging that right without sketching it our or thinking it through more, and conveying it here in words.

I’d certainly be willing to revisit and incorporate that idea into the larger scorpio I am building now, or in the 2â€

[AuxArcher]

Well, I found out that the local lumber yard doesn't sell ash in the kind of form which I need, they only sell thin pieces and bigger pieces cannot even be ordered. There is a boat-making company nearby, I'll have to check if they have thicker stuff and the lumber yard staff suggested that they might have some, but it is questionable.

So I might have to settle to just repairing this frame, or go to the local scrap yard for metal...

Juuso, you may have to travel some distance to find your wood. My hardwood source is about 60 - 65 miles from my home. Look into wood salvage yards, if such things exist in Finland. I recall your having trouble sourcing large enough wood for the size machine you built. Speciality hardwood dealers are who you want to locate, not regular lumber yards that don't deal in hardwood as a rule.

Perhaps laminating thinner ash? You'd have to make very good joints, and that will be difficult, but maybe would work for the hole carriers, but for the stachions, not sure that would be wise at all, considering the forces these machines create.