Converting a Qama to a Fulham gladius

[Aetius Helvius Merula]

Anyone done it? I have basic metalworking skills, but it looks like I need to learn more.

A long time ago, I used to browse through Atlanta Cutlery's catalog for fun, so when I started looking for kit, I remembered seeing the Qama. Legio XX talks about reworking it to a gladius, so I ordered one.

Got it yesterday and found that while the blade size and shape is good, my hand nearly swallows the hilt. I'd hoped it would be long enough that I could just cut off enough width from the tang, and fix a grip solidly without cramping my hand, but it looks like I'll have to weld something on.

I knew I'd have to do some work; I wanted make a basic gladius the way I wanted it, so I was sort of prepared for this. Haven't had time to tap out the rivets yet, but that's my first step. I have a couple of ideas but I'm looking for more.

[brennivs - tony drake]

Can you post some pics so I can see the blade/tang ,and I will be able to help you .
Regards Brennivs

[AntonivsMarivsCongianocvs]

Ave,

Yup, Tony's the man when it comes to swords.

I'm finishing up a Parazonium (Hellenistic Officer's short sword)... it's not quite ready to post yet but, I sent you a PM with some photos that might help you out.

[brennivs - tony drake]

Thank you Antonivs :oops: :oops: I am just a mere metal basher :lol:
Regards Brennivs

[brennivs - tony drake]

Aetivs opps can you also put the measurements of the sword,blade length/width,hiltlength ect basically everything so I can do a fullscale drawen so I can work it out.Also what is the Gladivs type :?:
Regards Brennivs

[Aetius Helvius Merula]

Pics, right. I was going to post some, but I had to get new batteries for my camera. OK, first the measurements, in centimeters and inches, as I don't know if any but us Yank dinosaurs use inches anymore

Blade length, from point to top of the scales - 17 1/2 inches/44.45 cm
Blade width -2 inches/5.08 cm
Hilt length - 5 inches/12.7 cm
Total length - 22 1/2 inches/57.15 cm
Thickness at tang - 3/8", not sure of the metric equivalent

And the gladius type will be Fulham. Photos to follow.

[Aetius Helvius Merula]

http://s2.photobucket.com/albums/y38/bl ... 000503.jpg

http://s2.photobucket.com/albums/y38/bl ... 000513.jpg

http://s2.photobucket.com/albums/y38/bl ... 000505.jpg

http://s2.photobucket.com/albums/y38/bl ... 000511.jpg



So, the probelm is that I think I'd run out of steel to fix the handle and pommel to. I suppose I could epoxy the pommel to a small part of the tang once I've cut it all down, but that just seems shoddy to me. I like to do good workmanship and all

[brennivs - tony drake]

Yes this is a dilema :? D cry: I hope this is helpful if you dont want to braze see if the rivet joint is strong enough.The Sarmation Swords Iam doing have riveted pommels on
Regards Brennivs

[Aetius Helvius Merula]

Thanks, Tony! I hadn't thought of that option. I had thought to fix the pommel by drilling a couple of holes into the end of the tang, putting the pommel to the end, and drilling matching holes through it. Then, countersink a pair of long machine screws through that, into the steel. But I'd feel much better with more tang.

Um, I don't really know how to rivet metal, or leather either. How is it done? And brazing is the same principle as soldering? I do know how to solder.

[ShaneA]

I got the bug to modify one of these that I had, but did an Irish style dagger out of it.


www.ironagearmoury.com/irishdagger.htm

I can't seem to find the picture of the bare tang that I took, but I was a bit frustrated with it having a weld in the tang. The upper section of the tang is slotted and the blade section of tang welded into the slot. Can't say that I am sure why they do it that way, it looked like more time and work then what they might have saved in steel by doing it that way. Seemed plenty strong enough for the original slab style handle though. If you grind it down to a normal size tang you would probably want to check the weld and make sure if it is ok or not. If welding on an extention, I would say it would be best to cut it down to the weld and add onto it from there so that there is only one weld in the tang.

Shane Allee

[brennivs - tony drake]

Aetivs riveting is easy ,for this ordinary flat headed nails will do for rivets.Drill though both pieces and on one side counter sink with a slightly larger drill not to deep. Put through the nail and cut of the excess leaving about 1/8" proud,lay the tang with the flat head down on a solid metal base and hammer the shank into the counter sink hole D
On brazing you need to heat the joint up to a red heat then place on the rod with the heat still on, the flux will melt first into the joint ,this will follow by the brass.You may need to turn it over to do the other end of the join.
Again it might be better to do a couple of test pieces to get use to it first.
Regards Brennivs

[Aetius Helvius Merula]

OK, I think I get your drift. Join to the metal addition by means of the rivets, then strengthen the join by brazing. Sounds like I'll have to put the crosspiece (what is the proper name for that on a gladius?) first, otherwise I'd have to cut out additional wood so it would slip over the riveted pieces, then the fit would be shot. I can always shim up the bone grip, I guess.

[Marcus Mummius]

what is the proper name for that on a gladius?

The handle part of a gladius consists of three large parts.

-Guard (what you call crosspiece)
-Grip
-Pommel

Vale,

[brennivs - tony drake]

Aetivs no not like that hock: I hope this quick crude drawing will help.

The brazing will help strengthen the join and make the tang feel as one,as you can see the method will make it one continuous piece of metal with the only bumps being the rivet heads.You could make the hand gaurd first before riveting and fit the metal insert ,take the wood of, then rivet the tang with the metal insert in place ,so the plate looks neat on the sword then put on the gaurd,grip then pommel and glue the components on the tang .While the glue is setting put on the pommel nut and rivet it down to hold the handle together while the glue sets Ihope this makes it a bit clearer.
Regards Brennivs

[brennivs - tony drake]

Had another thought this might be a simpler joint, but I would recomend that you braze this type of joint
Regards Brennivs lol: :lol: