Why I\'m never attempting tinning again...

[Wes]

Rubbing alcohol works goods as a degreser, or just plain dishsoap and a bit of scrubbing.

[Magnus]

Also, i saw a kit with Oatey #95 solder paste in it, that also came with a small coil of solder. Is this the same kind that I can use (paste only) to tin with?

[Hibernicus]

OK, so here's a fun one I got in an email.... tinning with tin foil.. actual tin foil... made from tin....

Might have to give that one a try...


Anyone else using tallow and tin powder?

[Wes]

I use the Dutch Boy Tinning Flux, say the word and I can mail you some. I wont use any other kind, I like the way this works. I can also see about picking you up the tube of paste you were looking for.....

[Hibernicus]

Trolling about regarding tinning.. took another look at this:
http://www.romancoins.info/f2005-Weisenau-Guttmann.jpg

Looks like brush strokes similar to what we get when we spread the tin with a damp brush, sometimes a cloth... not that this proves that a damp brush was used.

... the dark parallel lines to the right of the light's reflection.

[Magnus]

Ok, here's the result I got after re-heating, patching a few spots and wiping. I also went over it twice with some brasso type of polish. Is this how it's supposed to look? There are still some bumps, divets and imperfections...it's not purely smooth.

If not...then I dunno.

[Hibernicus]

Try again. There's a learning curve. Keep at it.

I have some guys who are brilliant at other things but for the life of'em they just don't get tinning! .. with either tinning flux like Oateys or with historic methods.

[Gaius_Calvus]

Hi Matt,

First, thanks for the comments on my belt -- much appreciated.

Let me see if I can answer some of your questions from earlier posts. First, make sure you use a dry cloth to wipe, and wipe quickly. To degrease (and polish smooth), I used some metal polish like Brasso (and I see you did above) but I also POLISHED it smooth (over a much smaller area) with my Dremel tool and a felt wheel.

As for the kit with Oatey #95 with a coil of solder -- that's the right stuff, and the Oatey #95 will tin WITHOUT the solder being used. All you need is the flux.

Let me see if I can pass on some more info.

OK. I have to start out by saying that I have never tried to tin a large area as your post depicts. It was small areas, the largest of which was the lunate terminal from an Albion apron terminal. So, I think that some of what you are seeing -- lumps and such -- is going to be inevitable in an area that large.

Here is more detail. On the FLAT pieces of my balteus, I used the Kester paste that includes both SOLDER and FLUX. It ended up with some lumps, etc, but I kept applying layers until I got them almost smooth. I think I did two layers or so while I was in this process. I used the disposable brushes that seem to be sold where they sell solder and such, and as I was holding the torch to the metal I would smear some more stuff on while I was heating it. That seemed to help. After I let them cool, I then polished the crap out of them with the felt wheel on my Dremel tool and some metal polish and that went a great deal toward getting them smooth and shiny. Since this is the stuff that included the solder, it polished to a MIRROR shine that looks very good on the buckle, frogs, and terminals.

On the uneven surfaces of the belt plates, though, that Kester stuff did not work because it contained solder AND flux. I tried one plate, it came out looking like crap (way too "globby" down in the trough between rings) and so I switched to the Oatey #95. That worked out very well, but you get two different results.

With the Kester solder AND flux, on a small flat area, after polishing, you get a mirror shine and it is very durable and able to resist the abrasion from the metal polish and Dremel felt wheel.

With the Oatey #95 WITHOUT solder, you get almost the same look as if you painted the surface with flat silver paint, and you CANNOT aggressively polish it. Remember, this is only some flux with some tin particles dissolved in it, and will not BOND to the surface like the Kester stuff. You can easily polish this stuff right off the metal if you get too agressive.

So, different products for different conditions and finishes.

For what you are trying to do, this would be my recommendation:

1) Cut your piece of brass into the dimensions of your individual belt plates. It seems to me that trying to do the whole sheet like that is going to have you chasing your tail.

2) Tin each piece with the Kester paste that INCLUDES solder. Do one piece at a time, and polish it until you get the finish you want.

3) Then, I would stamp the plates, etc. (By the way, Bradd Addona showed me the ones you guys are stamping yourselves up there -- laudes, frater).

I don't know if I've helped here, Brother, but all I can say for certain is that I've been right where you are at and cursing a blue streak. If you ever make it down here, I'll show you the 3-4 belt plates I ruined before I figured this out (sort of). I am not an expert by any means. :lol:

Edge

[Hibernicus]

We've sucessfully used Oateys #95 to tin helmets and umbos. Short of buffing with a mechanical tool the tin plating sticks very well. I believe that the skill trick is to have metal that's very clean. We often burnish the metal with very fine paper

We've used extra fine grit paper to polish off tin rills and ridges from brushing, even fine grit sanding sponges. Maybe the difference is that we use a damp clean cloth and/or brush to work the tin while its still at its hottest. A good plumber, for example, will use a damp cloth to wipe a soldered joint to achieve a nice finished smooth seam.

I can't emphsize enough how important it is to have a clean surface. A fingerprint can reduce adhesion! After cleaning with your favorite chem a light burnishing followed by a second cleaning will be very helpful.

We've gone through 5 or 6 dozen 1lb Oateys tubs over the last few years. Our knowledge comes via that experience.

We're making a complete switch to tallow and tin but the techniques are prety much the same.. super clean, burnished and wipe the hot tin with a damp cloth or brush.

[Magnus]

Well, I'll polish this plate as you suggest Edge, with my dremel. I'll get some felt wheels and give it a go...smooth it out. Then I'll pre-cut the plates and try the solder paste/wipe method again. I'll also go and get some of the oatey #95, just to try it on things.

If I can't find the KESTER brand, do you think mixing the Oatey #95 with some of the silver solder powder I made will thicken it for the flat surfaces?

[Gaius_Calvus]

Gee, I don't know, Matt, if that would work. I've only done this once, and it was a WHOLE lot of trial, and mostly error. :lol:

If you can't order the Kester solder/flux paste, I'd be happy to send you some. I can get it here and mail it up there. :wink:

Edge

[Magnus]

Thanks Edge, I'll keep everyone appraised.

[Hibernicus]

We have had enourmously great success at reheating plates and with a damp cloth or brush smoothing out all tinning anomolies while the tin was hot.

Also works when applying additional coats of tinning.

Also reduces the need to polish the tinned surface as the wipe with a damp cloth or brush leaves a mirror finish.

[Hibernicus]

Have any of you doing selective tinning done resist?
I've used real shellac with success.

Also used a tin "pencil" to "draw" onto the plate.

Any other techniques or ideas?

[Wes]

Looks good to me, just a matter of perfecting it now. I do most of my large pots that way, tin the sheet then I cut and assemble, that way I know its really coated well......also, try to remember and wipe in one direction......helps with clumps, etc..