11-10-2005, 11:42 AM
No problem Jim- happy to help.
Throw pointy things at it? OH NO- it's for a client, so no pointy thing throwing :lol: Anyway, it's taken a LOT of work to make so even if it were mine, I don't think I'd risk damaging it. Besides, I really doubt it'd stand up to a pilum- especially a weighted one. They've effectively got armor-piercing points afterall and that's a fair amount of mass behind the point. I doubt very much that even layers of rawhide, glue with sinew in it, linen, and wood will keep it from at least punching part way through. An arrow, sure- a sword, axe or spear, sure- but a pilum? Hmmmm...
I've worked-out a somewhat easier way to mix the glue too:
in a regular teacup or mug mix a roughly 2 or 2.5:1 ratio of cool water and glue crystals. Add the glue to the water slowly to help avoid clumping, then mix with a stir stick. Let it sit until the crystals absorb all the water (maybe 15 minutes)- until when you try to mix it it's all little gelatin blobs. Warm some water in a pan on the stove at very low heat- if you have a thermometer, make it around 70C. If you don't, then just keep it a bit warmer than the hottest water you can get from your tap (most water heaters go up to about 60C I think). Twist up some aluminum foil and make a ring that will hold the cup off the bottom of the pan (the water should heat it, not the pan). There should be enough water to immerse the cup about half way. When the water's up to temperature, put the cup in and let the glue liquify. Stir it periodically until all the particles are melted. Don't worry if a skin develops on top, just mix it back in. Once everything's melted, the glue is ready to use. Just brush it on. Do make sure not to overheat the glue- it's protein, so excessive heat will break it down and weaken it.
Hide glue sets by cooling, and it gels pretty quickly so I've found it best to work on a smallish area at a time. If it gels before you put together whatever you want to glue, it won't work very well. With fabric, for example, I brushed glue on an area about 15x30cm then pressed the fabric down, waited a bit for it to set, then proceeded to the next area. When it's just gelled, there isn't much adhesion, so you do have to be careful not to pull apart what you've just glued. I generally worked from the middle outwards- gluing an area on one side of center, then the other, back and forth allowing each side to set a bit while I worked on the other. You shouldn't try to reposition anything once the glue starts to gel either, so it's important to do any adjustments as soon as possible. Then just let everything dry overnight.
Do remember that hide glue is not waterproof and will soften if it gets wet, so you must wax everything to keep any moisture out.
Matt
Throw pointy things at it? OH NO- it's for a client, so no pointy thing throwing :lol: Anyway, it's taken a LOT of work to make so even if it were mine, I don't think I'd risk damaging it. Besides, I really doubt it'd stand up to a pilum- especially a weighted one. They've effectively got armor-piercing points afterall and that's a fair amount of mass behind the point. I doubt very much that even layers of rawhide, glue with sinew in it, linen, and wood will keep it from at least punching part way through. An arrow, sure- a sword, axe or spear, sure- but a pilum? Hmmmm...
I've worked-out a somewhat easier way to mix the glue too:
in a regular teacup or mug mix a roughly 2 or 2.5:1 ratio of cool water and glue crystals. Add the glue to the water slowly to help avoid clumping, then mix with a stir stick. Let it sit until the crystals absorb all the water (maybe 15 minutes)- until when you try to mix it it's all little gelatin blobs. Warm some water in a pan on the stove at very low heat- if you have a thermometer, make it around 70C. If you don't, then just keep it a bit warmer than the hottest water you can get from your tap (most water heaters go up to about 60C I think). Twist up some aluminum foil and make a ring that will hold the cup off the bottom of the pan (the water should heat it, not the pan). There should be enough water to immerse the cup about half way. When the water's up to temperature, put the cup in and let the glue liquify. Stir it periodically until all the particles are melted. Don't worry if a skin develops on top, just mix it back in. Once everything's melted, the glue is ready to use. Just brush it on. Do make sure not to overheat the glue- it's protein, so excessive heat will break it down and weaken it.
Hide glue sets by cooling, and it gels pretty quickly so I've found it best to work on a smallish area at a time. If it gels before you put together whatever you want to glue, it won't work very well. With fabric, for example, I brushed glue on an area about 15x30cm then pressed the fabric down, waited a bit for it to set, then proceeded to the next area. When it's just gelled, there isn't much adhesion, so you do have to be careful not to pull apart what you've just glued. I generally worked from the middle outwards- gluing an area on one side of center, then the other, back and forth allowing each side to set a bit while I worked on the other. You shouldn't try to reposition anything once the glue starts to gel either, so it's important to do any adjustments as soon as possible. Then just let everything dry overnight.
Do remember that hide glue is not waterproof and will soften if it gets wet, so you must wax everything to keep any moisture out.
Matt
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