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Shoe tying Lorica Segmentata?
#14
Most armor, even the cheaper stuff is usually made from Mild Steel which lacks chromium that 440 Stainless steel has makes it "stainless". This is not a bad thing though, as stainless steel makes for poor reenactment material (aside from being inaccurate, stainless is not as sturdy, ever see how easy it is to bend a kitchen knife compared to tougher steel?)

The mineral oil will prevent rust, though I'm not sure what you mean when you say "staining", the mineral oil will protect it, only a thin coat is necessary, and it will last awhile, depending on the humidity and aridness of your location.

I recommend wiping the oil off before using the equipment as it can get messy, and then reapplying it after use. Because mild steel is more susceptible to rust, even the salt from your fingers can cause rust (though not immediately, but with long term neglect).

Mineral oil is also pretty cheap, here in America I pay $1.38 for a pint, which goes a long way. Just apply with a paper towel.

One last thing, a lot of people recommend using a scotch brite pads, which work great on getting rust off, but in my experience can be slightly abrasive to the appearance of your armor. And do not use the pads on the softer brass parts of the armor. Just my two cents
Quintus Furius Collatinus

-Matt
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Messages In This Thread
Re: Shoe tying Lorica Segmentata? - by Yurko - 06-02-2011, 05:22 AM
Re: Shoe tying Lorica Segmentata? - by Magnus - 06-03-2011, 03:07 AM
Re: Shoe tying Lorica Segmentata? - by Matt Collettivs Ave - 06-04-2011, 02:49 AM
Re: Shoe tying Lorica Segmentata? - by dengland - 06-07-2011, 05:06 AM
Re: Shoe tying Lorica Segmentata? - by A_Volpe - 06-09-2011, 03:08 AM

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