Brass work for Gladius in process.

[PhilusEstilius]

Hi Sam.
Let me know if my reply got back to you as I'm not sure if I messed it up or not.

[Titus Marius Secundus]

Sorry Brian, it didn't get back, sure it wasn't you... no worries :-P

[Titus Marius Secundus]

I am somewhat patient...hehe

[Titus Marius Secundus]

So I have been getting on with some things while waiting for PhilusEstilius, or anyone with advice to my questions as to the brass.
I have been wanting and needing to finish the handle for good, so in any free spare time I work on it. Tonight I have had more time than usual and was working on making the guard look more acceptable and the handle's ridges more profound and straight. Cleaning it up in the process, hopefully in the following pictures you can see the improvements. I also oiled the mahogany wood with olive oil to darken it and give it a golden glow.
I made a trip to several hardware stores, with the exception of one which I'll try, to find a good potential terminal knob. I found the following, but it didn't say either solid brass, or brass finish. And the area where the brass gutters should fit in is too wide possibly. I'm going to search some terminal knobs related to my sword's era for some sizes. I just can't find any capable solid brass items to convert into a terminal knob...I might have to either have to cast one, or buy a door handle :-?


Sam

[Titus Marius Secundus]

I also used an ultra fine sand paper to finish of the wood with. Now it feels like a solid hardness, smooth...very happy with it : mile:

[Magnus]

Watch using Olive oil, it's an organic based oil but unlike linseed, is somewhat unprocessed and could go rancid on you. I would stick to Linseed oil. If you want to darken the wood, give it a coat or two of neatsfoot oil first, then a sealing coat of linseed.

Is your hilt all one piece of wood?

For your terminal knob, I ordered some on Ebay...I think I searched for brass balls (funny, I know), which I also used for ends of torcs. But a friend used one in the end of his scabbard and it turned out pretty well. Matt Lukes did a similar thing on my scabbard. I will snag a picture when I get home.

Here is the guy I think I got the brass balls from...they come in different sizes. What we basically did was solder a ball in between the end of the two brass pieces that make up the bottom chape.

http://cgi.ebay.com/Ten-1-2-threaded-bra...48368d9e7f

[kazeryu]

Linseed Oil is a good choice, but the trick is to be patient and do several thin coats instead of one gooey slobbering IMO.

Some custom knifemakers today use Tru-Oil, which I think is a blend of linseed oil and something else.

[Titus Marius Secundus]

Hm ok, for future reference then. Thanks. I think I have linseed which I used for some hard wood bowls from Costa Rica...I don't want to do any more sanding as I spent an hour and several cuts hardening the surface of the wood with fine sand paper taped around a rounded file... :neutral: uh, but yeah, next oil I use will be linseed!

Yes sir. I saw a few like it, including this one Hispaniensis, and decided that this way it would be a little easier sanding it down, I mean, just working on one piece I found was better. When you make 3 separate pieces, you have to worry about how things fit etc. I would think that, when a legionary had all three sections of the hilt wood, it would generally be one piece. I would think it would be easier for the guy making it. If it was 1 third bone, the no choice but to have 3 separate.
The handle is made up of about 8, 1/8th inch mahogany sheets. I bought a plank, and cut equal lengths maybe 8 inches long.... I then glued them in twos, which was about the thickness of the tang, and the middle section I cut apart in half, I could then pull them out of the middle so at the sides they would stick out, thus be making a gap in the middle where cut to allow the tang to slide right down the cavity. The gap was set at an angle as the tang tapered. I glued the 4, two piece joined units together with the correct width of gap in the middle section for the tang ( tight fit!) , using a big vice and about, 7 clamps...I used this glue that comes in a see through bottle, big, glue looks like yellow custard, and has a blue label...( yes I relate most things to food :grin: ) I left it for about 4 days clamped and a 3 until I started working it. It was now a very solid block, with a gap... I filed the wide gaped area which was to go up to the guard, and I filed it super flat for a good fit. I had to use a long file to widen some areas of the gap and every file or two, re tested it on the tang for a snug fit. I then filed some mahogany dust and kept it pure, mixed it with the great glue. This was like a thick fudge, with a milk chocolate color. I used this to put between the guard and the block when I clamped the two together. I also filled the cavity with this which filled any gaps around the tang. With the tang itself I ground little teeth into it which would assure the handle would never slide off even with the pommel. The thick fudge would fill the gaps from the teeth, and when harden, literally be like tarmac. So with the block clamped to the guard, imagine a g clamp from the guard to the end of the block where the pommel would be, pushing the block right up to the guard. Then the fudge would fill any small cavities and would be finalized! When the block had set on the tang, which I left for a couple weeks I started to form the handle, filing off square edges since my guard is oval,...the rest you can guess right

( I'm sorry guys, but the guard is brazed on :? with brass brazing rod..did a good job, not PERFECT but I'm filing it right down, rough areas, and polishing it. You won't see it. I even forget about it at times)

So I spoke to a guy about my terminal knob problem, he said that marine shops sell solid brass everything, so I'll check that out. I'll also look into hardware stores on the internet for those brass balls. I don't want ten, and I do have a little budget. The brass guard at the metal yard cost me $18-20!!!! ad: ad: ad: ad: Still have left overs! :grin: I was thinking of cutting out about 4-5 of these...almost 1/4 inch circles and soldering them together, then filing down groves and drilling a hollow bit for the gutters to go into....idk...

I guess that's enough for you to digest. I hope it's okay... I didn't have RAT at the time... just pictures of he internet to follow :neutral:
meh



Sam

[Titus Marius Secundus]

Okay, so I haven't done much lately as biology needs doing too. I am going to make slower progress and will get this complete soon, but not a week or two. I went to Ace for solid brass components for the terminal knob and they had much much more than lowes and home depot. They may have had it, but those stores are so big, and the people aren't too helpful... Some of the things shown in the following pics said "brass finish". The guy there who built turbine engines and used brass all the time said " well that can also mean it's got a finish on the brass." he took out a knife and scraped the metal. What we got was a silver color, and when you scrap solid brass you get that color. I know from my brass plate I used for my guard. I was doubtful about it, but the only thing that was iffy was this small round par. Everything else they had in "solid brass". I really think I wanna know if that one piece is solid or not cause it's good for the side gutters to slide into. Anyway, please use your imagination. My guards will be about over half an 3/4 of an inch wide, can wrap those at the tips to help fit in the small part.

I think I'm just going to have to make something. There is only so much you can help me with. Just are these parts ok? They are like, lamp fittings...

[Titus Marius Secundus]

They also have a great variety in K&S brass work, EVEN BRASS TUBING!!!!


Sam

[Crispvs]

I would go for the piece second from the right in your first photo (photo 29). As long as it is solid brass you should be able to cut or file the little finial off it. File the piece so that the underside (facing up in your photo) is as rounded as possible. If possible it should be like half a ball, but you will need to work within the confines of your medium so do the best you can. Do not interfere with the 'trench' which runs around the piece. A number of surviving Pompeii type terminal knobs feature a groove running around in this position and if you look at my 'How To' thread you will see I put one in mine.

Crispvs

[Titus Marius Secundus]

Do you mean second from the left? That would make more sense I think. Also, in picture #30, far right of the three, it looks big but is only a close up, so second from the LEFT would fit in there, and the gutters would slide into the #30 I would solder them together somehow. The #30 one has a thread inside, I am sure it's solid, but will only find out by buying a dummy. It seemed to fit okay. If not....I will check if they fit well before I buy them, as they have some out of the packages now. #30 just seems like an idea because it will allow for the gutters. Anyway...

Sam

[Crispvs]

Definitely the one second from the right in picture 29 (number five counting from the left, next to the one which looks like a Homburg hat). This about the right size and would be able to be filed into a suitable shape for a Pompeii chape terminal. Remember that Pompeii type chape terminals are not as elaborately shaped as Mainz type terminals.

If it is not hollowed out at all, I would suggest fixing it in your vice and using a large drill to hollow it out a bit at the top. Ideally you want to create a depression with a thin wall perhaps a sixteenth of an inch high around the edge which can grip the side gutters. I spent about an hour and a half with a needle file, using the end to work around inside until the wall was a suitable thickness. Don't be tempted to try to make the terminal in two pieces. I have seen some made that way fall apart. A single solid terminal is much stronger.

Crispvs

[Titus Marius Secundus]

Also after looking at yours...the second from the RIGHT looks more like it. Now I don't know about ridges being on that one, but like u said, that's Pompeii type so not needed anyway. Just I worry too much about those gutters, where will they go! Do I drill the hole bigger? like...how deep/wide. Or should I just try to do what I think is best using the second from right in #29... :oops: Oh, and I am still waiting for a second attempt message off Brian as the first failed to come through, but I DID find thicker brass...I will probably buy some to use. If what they have isn't too thick that is. I might do what you have, a flat cross hanger. It's just so much easier and still looks nice like yours. I will use a cereal box to use as a dummy brass to measure with like you said.
Sam. P.S I might go buy the stuff today as it's just down the street so if you have any quick remarks.
Thanks.
Sam again...

[Titus Marius Secundus]

Right sorry didn't see you responded :oops:
Now, I don't want to follow a Mainz type for a fulham? A pompey is good? and other thing...walls? So... basically I WIDEN the existing screw hole, and I don't drill right down? I have to find a way to make a circular groove?...gonna be hard :-? don't have a needle file...I have tons of other tools. It can't just be a drilled hole? I could solder it REALLY good :-o
haha...
Sam :-D