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Roman Shoe Reconstructions
#46
They are beautiful and works of art - I hope someone is going to wear them though.
Moi Watson

Life should NOT be a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in an attractive and well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, Merlot in one hand, Cigar in the other; body thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and screaming "WOO HOO, what a ride!
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#47
Quote:They are beautiful and works of art - I hope someone is going to wear them though.

The Purple shoes and the all red Southfleet are pairs and will be worn, the other two are single shoes made specifically as a test for the dye and style, its almost always the case I end up making three shoes to produce a pair unless I've made a lot of that particular style and I'm happy with it..... this usually leaves me with a fairly decent shoe though for my own display ;-)
Ivor

"And the four bare walls stand on the seashore. a wreck a skeleton a monument of that instability and vicissitude to which all things human are subject. Not a dwelling within sight, and the farm labourer, and curious traveller, are the only persons that ever visit the scene where once so many thousands were congregated." T.Lewin 1867
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#48
A shoe from I believe a well in Harlow in the vicinity of the "Temple" unpublished as far as I know...
A slightly different version from previous versions I've made eliminating potential alterations and repairs to the original..
Date probably later 2nd or early 3rd cent.
Original length 21cm, width 7cm, hieght probably around 6cm at heel... allowing for shrinkage the shoe could have originally been 2-3cm longer making it potentially a Ladies size 36EU ish, 3.5 British, 6US or a little less.
Material 2mm Cow calf upper dyed black on the outside only, insole 4mm cowhide, midsole 3mm cow, bottom sole 5-6mm cow all veg tanned. stitching: raw and refined flax. construction the usual method made on a last.

[attachment=11623]Harlownewversionblacksmall.jpg[/attachment]

[attachment=11624]Harlownewversionblackdetail.jpg[/attachment]

Similar footwear can be found on multiple sites throughout Europe...
No glue was used during the making of this production, colours in the pics vary from original due to poor light.
Ivor

"And the four bare walls stand on the seashore. a wreck a skeleton a monument of that instability and vicissitude to which all things human are subject. Not a dwelling within sight, and the farm labourer, and curious traveller, are the only persons that ever visit the scene where once so many thousands were congregated." T.Lewin 1867
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#49
New Fellboots from Vindolanda see: "The Early Wooden Forts Vol III" Preliminary report on the leather. Dating: end of the 1st cent AD.

[attachment=11655]FellBootssmall.jpg[/attachment]
Ivor

"And the four bare walls stand on the seashore. a wreck a skeleton a monument of that instability and vicissitude to which all things human are subject. Not a dwelling within sight, and the farm labourer, and curious traveller, are the only persons that ever visit the scene where once so many thousands were congregated." T.Lewin 1867
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#50
you are prolific my friend, how much time takes you for a pair?
can you please include a pic from below,? with the outer sole?
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#51
Gelu, currently their unnailed but would be the same as these...
two rows of nails round the outside of the foot and three rows in the centre and heel with a short gap ....

[attachment=11656]CavalryBootcowsmaller.jpg[/attachment]

As to time I estimate around 30 hours for a pair, but it often takes longer I think depending on how much detail.. this only applies to the final pair of shoes....
Order of shoe making in a nutshell:
1.Make the foot shapes for the required size and style
2.Make and adjust the first pattern
3.Trial piece is then made and adjusted as necessary *
4.Pattern finalised
5.If I'm happy at this stage I make the final pair, Keep in mind you cant uncut leather...... ;-)
Construction depends on the original shoe each process for left and right is done back to back..

* sometimes I skip 3 depending on how many I've previously made.....

[attachment=11657]SaalburgCalceino2small.jpg[/attachment]

Shoe Construction order in a nutshell:
A. Cut out the upper, heel counter and insole plus any other parts as necesary.
B. Make any special stamps or tools necessary for decorating the shoe and test them.
C. Decorate the uppers.
D. Stitch up the uppers complete, including any additions and internal components regularly testing the uppers for fit and tension on the last.
E. Fit the finished uppers to the last, fit the insole and "brace" the upper over it making sure the insole is correctly positioned, and the upper correctly tensioned.
F. Stitch the upper to the insole using whip/tunnel stitch along the lasting margin working from the side of the foot around the heel first and then up round the toe.
G Fill the space in the centre of the sole with leather pieces cut to fit this creates the mid sole, and carefully cut slots through the mid and insole for lacing the mid sole.
H. Remove the shoes from the last , lace the mid sole in, and hammer down the edges of the lasting margin as necessary particularly in the heel region using a metal hobnailing foot.
I. Refit the shoes to the lasts and mark out and cut out the soles using the shoe as a template finally trimming to size and shape as necessary to fit, and finishing the edges of the soles.
J. Put in the holes for tunnel stitching in the sole and Upper/insole with a suitable awl, these should overlap slightly, in neither case should these holes penetrate the outer sole or insole of the shoe.
K.Tunnel stitch the soles to the upper/insole working from the side round the heel to the toe pulling the thread tight as you go
L. Take the shoes of the last and hammer the sole flat on a hobnailing foot, followed if required by hobnailing with suitable nails in a suitable pattern.

M: The shoes are finally greased waxed or polished as necesary...... and are now complete Smile

Final note: this is only one method there are a number of others ways...

No Glue was used during the making of this Production.....
Ivor

"And the four bare walls stand on the seashore. a wreck a skeleton a monument of that instability and vicissitude to which all things human are subject. Not a dwelling within sight, and the farm labourer, and curious traveller, are the only persons that ever visit the scene where once so many thousands were congregated." T.Lewin 1867
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#52
thanks a lot for your answer it'll make a good short how to
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#53
A small shoe about 23cm* long so for a women most likely... date: based on the style probably late 2nd or early 3rd cent AD. the actual dating at Yale gives a much broader date range up to the fall of Dura but this is clearly a Roman hobnailed shoe**....
Originally it may have been higher at the ankle creating a short boot with additional lace holes, but as this part is missing however I chose to make it as a normal shoe....
The decoration serves the purpose of holding the laces in situ...
* estimated from a photo and adjusted by 10% as no sole length is given.
** Roman occupation was if I have it right 160-256/7 AD.
[attachment=11658]DuraHeartshoesmall.jpg[/attachment]

Instep with side seam
[attachment=11659]DuraHeartshoesmallinside.jpg[/attachment]

Usual construction with goat skin upper...

No Glue was used in the making of this production.....
Ivor

"And the four bare walls stand on the seashore. a wreck a skeleton a monument of that instability and vicissitude to which all things human are subject. Not a dwelling within sight, and the farm labourer, and curious traveller, are the only persons that ever visit the scene where once so many thousands were congregated." T.Lewin 1867
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#54
Flavian Era military boot or Caliga.....

[attachment=11712]Klnbootssmall.jpg[/attachment]

Based on this:

[attachment=11713]Flavianbootsmall.jpg[/attachment]

Known finds: Castleford 70s ish AD and possibly Whitley earlier then 120 AD.....

made from 2mm thick white veg tanned cow with the grain removed....
Ivor

"And the four bare walls stand on the seashore. a wreck a skeleton a monument of that instability and vicissitude to which all things human are subject. Not a dwelling within sight, and the farm labourer, and curious traveller, are the only persons that ever visit the scene where once so many thousands were congregated." T.Lewin 1867
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#55
Allendale shoes.


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#56
@Marcus nice ones did you do them yourself, can you post more,

@Crispianus nice ones again ( think you bored of cuddos)

@ Martin, I think white is impossible only by tanning, but very light cream tones are
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#57
Threads split off.

People, please comment and ask questions in a SEPARATE thread!
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FECTIO Late Roman Society
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#58
Sorry, but all of the atachments pictures of this topic are gone and not works. Please any moderator can fix it? Thanks!
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#59
   
   
First attemp on late roman shoes: the low Ham boot or campagus (UK). There are made in calf leather undyed and with a thickness of 2 mm aprox. I haven't add outsoles, but sometimes campagi have it. The stitchings are made with an awl one by one, because if you make the holes before it's difficult to align. Next time probably try to do Deurne campagi.
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#60
[attachment=12069 Wrote:LUCIUS ALFENUS AVITIANUS pid='333092' dateline='1449604946']

First attemp on late roman shoes: the low Ham boot or campagus (UK). There are made in calf leather undyed and with a thickness of 2 mm aprox. I haven't add outsoles, but sometimes campagi have it. The stitchings are made with an awl one by one, because if you make the holes before it's difficult to align. Next time probably try to do Deurne campagi.

I think you have a problem with the heel, did you follow the pattern? as it shows a curved heel section* in the wrong direction, this should be straight or curved slightly in the opposite direction, stitching should be on the inside essentially its a turn shoe.
The quarters should be I think longer with the decorative cut outs more on the side of the foot.
I suggest being cautious of copying patterns directly as often their either faulty or distorted in some fashion.

When I stitch pieces like this where theres a difference in the lengths of the edges to be joined in a seam, I temporarily stitch it with a single stitch at key points and then mark  out and put in the holes...
Its difficult to explain without images !...

* here I'm looking at C. van Driel Murrays article "A Mirror of Fashion and Society" 1987.

The original Low Ham shoe is only 12cm long or so and likely for a baby, according to my notes its a Well find and was or is in the Clarks shoe Museum.

Another similar shoe of the same size comes from Luxemburg as well as a similar carbatina in size 4-5 from Vindolanda, larger nailed sole varietys come from York and Gloucester.

York: a small shoe of calcei construction 16cm long.

   

Gloucester, about 21cm long.

   

Gloucester Reconstruction:

   

Vindolanda Carbatina 20-22cm long.

   


Hope this is some help Wink
Ivor

"And the four bare walls stand on the seashore. a wreck a skeleton a monument of that instability and vicissitude to which all things human are subject. Not a dwelling within sight, and the farm labourer, and curious traveller, are the only persons that ever visit the scene where once so many thousands were congregated." T.Lewin 1867
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