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Helmet
#16
Quote:George, are you familiar with the care of iron/steel helmets? (I only ask because you are a newer member, I don't mean to sound patronizing if you are familiar). Especially with a very nice helmet like the DSC Gallic A, be sure to rub a thin coat of mineral oil on the helmet to protect it from rust (even the salt on your fingers can cause rust in the long term, and depending on your climate humidity can play a factor). Mineral oil is fairly cheap too, I pay $1.38 for a 16oz bottle, you can find it in the pharmacy section at your local grocer.

Mineral oil last a long time, and chances are if you are like me with a new helmet, you'll be handling the helmet so much the oil will probably come off from handling it rather than it actually evaporating.

Something to consider about the Dacian helmets is that while most are represented as being Italic with the crossbars on the top, there are plenty of example of Gallic helmets with the cross bars added over the "eye brows" and other ornamentation, showing what a hurry some of the metalworkers were in to protect the soldiers from the Dacian falx, which is rumored (I still am not completely convinced of its effectiveness) to peel Roman helmets like a can opener.



Oh ok Matt thanks for the information on the Gallic helms. I'm learning something new here everyday. The Dacian Wars are also one of my favorite Roman zones of conflict.


Jkaler I'm purchasing one of the tinned bronze Gallic helms.

Appreciate the reenacting info as well. I'll try and contact him.

Can anyone recommend a sword/gladius vendor?
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#17
Some of the top of the line swords are made by Del Tin or Albion, KOA sells several of their swords which range from $380-700+ They are considered to be some of the most accurate swords as far as design, size, and weight. Weight is a big factor for all other swords $140 and below which in my experience tend to be rather heavy (much heavier than the real thing), for some reason the majority of sword makers feel that they need to have a super thick sword to avoid having a sharp edge (the majority of replica swords do not come sharpened, and many shouldn't be sharpened because they are not high enough quality steel to properly hold an edge).

Some of the few swords which are affordable, but accurate, if you can overlook their sometimes heaviness, are Deepeeka's Mainz and Pompeii Gladius, (which Matt Amt's site says are some of the few "off the shelf" good swords), as well as Soul of the Warrior's Pompeii Magnus Gladius, SOTW also sells an $85 regular Pompeii gladius, which I understand is not bad.

However if you are going for a AD9 Impression, you most likely want a Mainz gladius (I don't recall when the Pompeii Gladius was introduced). Perhaps someone else can chime in?

One last thing, if you do buy Deepeeka products, see if their is an "N" model, nearly all the Roman helmets and swords have been modified to become better replicas, sometimes much better replicas (many of which suggestions were given from RAT members, among other experts).
Quintus Furius Collatinus

-Matt
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#18
Quote:Some of the top of the line swords are made by Del Tin or Albion, KOA sells several of their swords which range from $380-700+ They are considered to be some of the most accurate swords as far as design, size, and weight. Weight is a big factor for all other swords $140 and below which in my experience tend to be rather heavy (much heavier than the real thing), for some reason the majority of sword makers feel that they need to have a super thick sword to avoid having a sharp edge (the majority of replica swords do not come sharpened, and many shouldn't be sharpened because they are not high enough quality steel to properly hold an edge).

Some of the few swords which are affordable, but accurate, if you can overlook their sometimes heaviness, are Deepeeka's Mainz and Pompeii Gladius, (which Matt Amt's site says are some of the few "off the shelf" good swords), as well as Soul of the Warrior's Pompeii Magnus Gladius, SOTW also sells an $85 regular Pompeii gladius, which I understand is not bad.

However if you are going for a AD9 Impression, you most likely want a Mainz gladius (I don't recall when the Pompeii Gladius was introduced). Perhaps someone else can chime in?

One last thing, if you do buy Deepeeka products, see if their is an "N" model, nearly all the Roman helmets and swords have been modified to become better replicas, sometimes much better replicas (many of which suggestions were given from RAT members, among other experts).



Very good thanks!
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#19
Matt wrote:-
Quote:George, are you familiar with the care of iron/steel helmets? (I only ask because you are a newer member, I don't mean to sound patronizing if you are familiar). Especially with a very nice helmet like the DSC Gallic A,




The DSC Gallic 'A' is tinned bronze, so will not rust like the Deepeeka iron one.
Unless they made a steel version as well?
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#20
Quote:Matt wrote:-
Quote:George, are you familiar with the care of iron/steel helmets? (I only ask because you are a newer member, I don't mean to sound patronizing if you are familiar). Especially with a very nice helmet like the DSC Gallic A,




The DSC Gallic 'A' is tinned bronze, so will not rust like the Deepeeka iron one.
Unless they made a steel version as well?


SOTW lists it as a tinned bronze. I assume this variety would resist corrosion?
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#21
Ahh, I hadn't been paying attention, I didn't realize they were tinned as well
Quintus Furius Collatinus

-Matt
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#22
Do the helmets have a liner or padding? I forgot to ask earlier. I'm so used to 20th century helms having internal webbing.
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#23
Should come with a liner, but you can always make your own easily enough too.
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#24
Yes you will want a liner, not only does it cushion a blow to the helmet (a helmet is useless without the liner, as the kinetic energy from the blow would transfer right into the skull, padding prevents this.

Also, padding with keep the helmet snugly but comfortably on your head. When you turn your head sharply, you don't want the helmet to slide around
Quintus Furius Collatinus

-Matt
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#25
Quote:Yes you will want a liner, not only does it cushion a blow to the helmet (a helmet is useless without the liner, as the kinetic energy from the blow would transfer right into the skull, padding prevents this.

Also, padding with keep the helmet snugly but comfortably on your head. When you turn your head sharply, you don't want the helmet to slide around


Yes I'll fix something up for padding for certain. The cheek guards have a method of fastening below the chin correct?
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#26
There should be two rings underneath the neckguard, which two pieces of leather are attached to each ring. Your DSC Gallic A should two different way to attach the leather now, the first and most common is to just run the leather strings from the neckguard rings to the rings on the inside of the cheekguards, and then tie them together.

However the Gallic A has another way to tie it, using a something of a small leather strappings (like 1/3 the size of your leather belt), sew your belt underneath both neckguard rings and then punch out a small hole (again like the size of a hole on a leather belt) and fit it over a small knob located on the outside of the cheekguards

Look at the 3rd picture on the SOTW website: http://legvi.tripod.com/armamentarium/id289.html

You can see both the ring inside the cheekguard, and also the little knob on the outside of the cheekguard. Nevermind the fact that the knob is missing in the first picture. If you PM me your email, I'd be happy give you some pics show you how I have my Gallic A leather straps "snap" on to the little knob if it didn't make sense how I explained it. Indeed it is a little weird to explain
Quintus Furius Collatinus

-Matt
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#27
Quote:There should be two rings underneath the neckguard, which two pieces of leather are attached to each ring. Your DSC Gallic A should two different way to attach the leather now, the first and most common is to just run the leather strings from the neckguard rings to the rings on the inside of the cheekguards, and then tie them together.

However the Gallic A has another way to tie it, using a something of a small leather strappings (like 1/3 the size of your leather belt), sew your belt underneath both neckguard rings and then punch out a small hole (again like the size of a hole on a leather belt) and fit it over a small knob located on the outside of the cheekguards

Look at the 3rd picture on the SOTW website: http://legvi.tripod.com/armamentarium/id289.html

You can see both the ring inside the cheekguard, and also the little knob on the outside of the cheekguard. Nevermind the fact that the knob is missing in the first picture. If you PM me your email, I'd be happy give you some pics show you how I have my Gallic A leather straps "snap" on to the little knob if it didn't make sense how I explained it. Indeed it is a little weird to explain





PM sent.
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#28
Check your email
Quintus Furius Collatinus

-Matt
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#29
Any updates on the helmet(s) George?
Quintus Furius Collatinus

-Matt
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#30
Quote:Some of the top of the line swords are made by Del Tin or Albion, KOA sells several of their swords which range from $380-700+ They are considered to be some of the most accurate swords as far as design, size, and weight. Weight is a big factor for all other swords $140 and below which in my experience tend to be rather heavy (much heavier than the real thing), for some reason the majority of sword makers feel that they need to have a super thick sword to avoid having a sharp edge (the majority of replica swords do not come sharpened, and many shouldn't be sharpened because they are not high enough quality steel to properly hold an edge).

Some of the few swords which are affordable, but accurate, if you can overlook their sometimes heaviness, are Deepeeka's Mainz and Pompeii Gladius, (which Matt Amt's site says are some of the few "off the shelf" good swords), as well as Soul of the Warrior's Pompeii Magnus Gladius, SOTW also sells an $85 regular Pompeii gladius, which I understand is not bad.

However if you are going for a AD9 Impression, you most likely want a Mainz gladius (I don't recall when the Pompeii Gladius was introduced). Perhaps someone else can chime in?

AD9 is a bit early for a pompeii type of sword, so I would prefer to go with a Mainz, Fulham or Gladius hispaniensis type of sword. If it's just for show, Deepeeka has a acceptable hispaniensis based on finds from Delos. Their mainz is on the big side, but the newly Mainz swords made by other vendors and sold by Armamentaria are wonderful and good quality for their price. Again, when you want something better, ask Mark Morrow or again, Matt Lukes. I think in the US/Canada those two people are the way to go for Roman swords, and probably Matts work is the best choose as he can also do you the scabbard to go with the blade.

I never handled a Del Tin blade, but the comments I hear about them are not always as good, as suggested earlier in this topic. Albion swords are well-made, but come without a scabbard and are, in my opinion, expensive for what you get. For the same amount of money you can source something nicer Big Grin
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