Edging a Scutum with rawhide

[QVINTVS ARTORIVS CORVINVS]

First off, where would you suggest to obtain your rawhide?
I thought I saw somewhere that someone raided a petshop and wet, then unfurled some of those wrapped dog chews and used this. The problem I see here is that the lengths wouldn't appear to be much more than 14"-18" long, so they would be seamed end to end to complete.

I guess I could get about 6 square feet at Tandy Leather for about $25 if that is the only alternative.

I have seen that it is applied damp and clamped in place... my other question is, how much force does it put out when it dries?
Enough to pull a curved shield stright?
Perhaps it should be applied while in the scutum press to help alleviate the tensions created by the drying process?

Any ideas, opinions, caveats and pictures would be greatly appreciate.

Sulla, I have already made notes from your posting ;-) )
Keep em coming!

Regards,

[sulla felix]

Corvinus,

If you want to use rawhide for edge strips only I recommend this supplier - nice long lengths pre-cut which means minmum joints.

http://www.eleatherworks.com/home.php?cat=502

If you want to cover the entire face I recommend thinner hide (deer for example) - the idea of using the press to hold the scutum shape is a good one! The only problem with thinner hides is finding a single piece large enough to avoid seems.

[Neuraleanus]

1. Cut strips from a side of wet rawhide. For my scutum I cut four sections, top, bottom, and each side, joined together at the corners.

2. Clamp in place on the shield rim using spring clamps and let dry overnight. Let the strips overlap a bit as the rawhide will contract as it drys. If the shield is properly glued this contraction should not change the shield's curvature.

3. Though not fully dryed, this will take a few days, remove the clamps and drill holes using a 1/16 inch drill and stitch the rim on.

4. When fully dryed you may either paint the rim (the Dura scutum had its rim painted), or leave it in its natural color.

[Magnus]

First off, where would you suggest to obtain your rawhide?
I thought I saw somewhere that someone raided a petshop and wet, then unfurled some of those wrapped dog chews and used this. The problem I see here is that the lengths wouldn't appear to be much more than 14"-18" long, so they would be seamed end to end to complete.

I guess I could get about 6 square feet at Tandy Leather for about $25 if that is the only alternative.

I have seen that it is applied damp and clamped in place... my other question is, how much force does it put out when it dries?
Enough to pull a curved shield stright?
Perhaps it should be applied while in the scutum press to help alleviate the tensions created by the drying process?

Any ideas, opinions, caveats and pictures would be greatly appreciate.

Sulla, I have already made notes from your posting ;-) )
Keep em coming!

Regards,

Yeah, that was me! It was a cheaper alternative to buying regular rawhide at Tandy, but it's up to you! Once it dries, it dries to the shape it's clamped onto, so it won't straighten the curve of your scuta at all, it'll dry in a nice curve, and probably reinforce the scuta's curvature.

Oh, you can also coat the rawhide in beeswax to help seal it. I rubbed some one, then melted it in with a heat gun.

[QVINTVS ARTORIVS CORVINVS]

What happens to it after it is set to the shield and everything is all happy, then it rains?
Does this degrade or make the rawhide slimy?
I guess this is where the sealant on it comes into play???

[Hibernicus]

Beeswax, lots of it.

Beeswax the edge of the shield then affix the edging (rawhide or brass.)

[Poftim]

I used Tandy's for mine. 4 strips.

I just used copper tacks 3 copper tacks on one side and pulled it as hard as I could around, the rawhide conformed to the edges of the shield and Didn't make it straight again.

here is a picture:



I know it isn't so hot a picture, but when I come home again I will take a better one.

ETA: Don't worry if it rains, the rawhide doesn't get wet enough to strat getting too slippery, and when it dries it will shrink again.

[Gaius Julius Caesar]

Nice shield! Is it dished?

[Ironhand]

You beat me to it. I had the same queston.

[Gaius Julius Caesar]

Whoo-hooo! :lol: :lol:
Finaly beat someone!!!! Usually it's me who comes in late on the draw!!!lol

[Poftim]

Ok, here are more pictures:

A Closeup of the tacking:

I used four strips and I did two at a time, when those two dried, I overlapped them with the other two strips. (eg I did top and bottom first, then another day I did left and right)

It Isn't dished, but only curved a little to give it some added strength:


And, here is the almost completed design on the shield. I'm doing unit in Transluco, Dacia early-middle 5th century:


ETA: Make sure you stretch the rawhide as hard as you can, use a block of wood and wrap the rawhide around it a little to give you more leverage.

[Gaius Julius Caesar]

Still, nice work!

[QVINTVS ARTORIVS CORVINVS]

Poftim,

I never saw any strips available at Tandy... did you cut them yourself?
if not, do you have a part #?

Thanks,

[Poftim]

I will look for it, I bought them in the strips. They were the perfect size.

ETA: I found it on their website.

It's Rawhide Horn Wrap. #4480-00. measuring 1-3/4" X 42". its $9 a strip.

[Servius Rustius Noricus]

Magnus
Rawhide of various grades can be obtained from "Horseworld". You can order an entire hide. If you require some see me, I just pruchased a hide size piece, you can have as much as you want in strips up to 4.5 feet long.

everyone
As for the rest looking for Rawhide, try a company in your area that deals to horse enthusiasts. This type of company would carry or be able to order leather in all types of grades and usually carry all types of leather treatment.