Petrokles Arming Cap

[Kineas]

Part I



Petrokles, on the left, is wearing what several people on this forum think to be an arming cap. I've had suggestions from a number of people on the forum as to how to make it; I went with the gentleman who said it was probably made like a Japanese arming cap, and with my own experience of watching a very old man in Kenya make what they call a "Lamu cap" the old way, which you'll see below. I'll leave it to you folks as to whether you like the reconstruction. I will say that it is both stiff and very wearable. As soon as a I have a helmet, I'll give a report on how it works.

Materials: 1 piece linen canvas (and heavy linen would do)
1 piece shirt-weight white linen
1 piece very heavy natural coloured wool
30 inches of 1 inch wide tablet woven or similar linen tape
1 spool natural colored linen thread (100 meters)

all three pieces were cut to a 7.5 inch radius (15 inch diameter) circle.

Pin the fabric at the center. None of my circles was perfect and that had NO effect on the piece. The wool goes inside the "sandwich."

Now choose the "good side" or the outside of the cap. I drew some circles with a compass at this point as guides to keep my sewing from getting sloppy. Use your center mark for each circle. I did one inch increments (1/2 inch adjustments on the compass) but you might need more or fewer circles.

Here are the circles cut out, and pinned together.

[Kineas]

Part Two

Now sew a small pattern in the center. I put three stitches right int he middle, and then sewed a tiny star with a circle around the star. Not required, just fun. Now sew a 1 inch circle or thereabouts, and then sew a 2 inch circle, etc. The shape will begin to form.



And then more circles. I did the whole cap in "backstitch" because it is tight and reinforces itself.



Note that after my 7th circle, I went from 1/2 inch increments to 1/4 inch or tighter. This is something you'll have to choose for yourself--as you sew, you'll see where it comes to on your head and how much padding you need. Also, the way you sew your circles will decide how much "curve" the cap gets. Larger stitches gather more fabric. Smaller stitches are neater and more stable. And it sure is a good way to practice backstitch!

Here near completion.

[Kineas]

Part Three

Note how much the fabric is now bunching--just before you finish, you'll be making the tiny equivalent of pleats. This may mean I made it too big.

Now cut off the excess. Then run the linen tape all the way around the final edge. I tacked it to the inside edge with a running stitch and then finished on the outside with a running stitch, too, but that's a matter of taste. I stuck to the colors of the vase, but I suspect there's room for some decoration. Also, now that I've made one, I understand how to do the patterns I see in the vase painting, as well.

Here's the finished product.




And inside:



And on my head:



The whole thing, all hand sewn (I don't think this could be done by machine, at least not to look right) took four hours from finding the linen in the basement to watching my wife smile at the finished product. I used an ENTIRE spool of linen thread.
I don't think you can use cotton threat. I pulled tight--really tight--on most stitches after the sixth circle. You have to . I broke my linen a couple of times, and that's some stress.

Hope you all like it!

[Paullus Scipio]

Great work, Kineas...a laus for a very authentic-looking piece, and for figuring out the method of construction...... D

[hoplite14gr]

Laudes from me too. Nice interpretation.
Although I am of the opinion that he wears the red(?) felt cup that survives in the folk dress of mountainous areas of Greece.

[Matthew Amt]

Genius! Very nice work. Yeah, I tend to assume that a cap like that would just be felt, shaped to the right shape, with the caveat that EVERYthing back then might have been way more complicated than we think...

This reminds me of a cap found in a Bronze Age coffin in Denmark, made of several layers of wool tightly quilted together. I had assumed that each layer was made in 4 or more panels, like many other caps back then, but now I'm wondering if the whole thing might have started out flat! Hmmmm...

Thanks for sharing that! Khaire,

Matthew

[Kineas]

I'm going to try and do the same thing in felt. but I've worn a lot of wool hats--I like linen...

however, I'll do a wool one and post it here. Wool is easier--more stretch to the fabric, so much easier to form in a bowl.

Thanks to all the folks who coached me or provided ideas. Now must make more stuff...

[Servio Caro (Javier Sánc]

Good work, laudes!

does it help you to fit the helmet? Finally I decided to use a phrigian cap, but just now in Spain we have over 37 - 40º C, too much hot for any cap

[Giannis K. Hoplite]

Too hot for any helmet,for that matter!
Congratulations,Kineas. Laudes from me,too.
My suggestions for your next felt/wool cap. Wearing a helmet you'll find that covering more of your forehead is really comfortable.I know in this Patroclus vase the forehead and part of the hair in fron are uncovered,but I think it's a bit artistic. After all,other sculptures show a bit more of the head covered. So it only means you can make it a bit deeper. Also,before wearing a helmet i thought that a common thickly woven wool cap would be enough for a nice fit. Although my helmet fit me TIGHTLY in the circumference of the head,i realized that more than twice that thickness was much better. It will depend on your helmet, but don't hesitate to make it much thicker. Around 2cm(?)
Khaire
Giannis

[hoplite14gr]

Actualy it was 40 degrees in Nemea.
Felt cap is excellent heat and sweat absorber and comfortable.
I ran hoplitodromy and I was glad to have it.

Kind regards

[Gaius Decius Aquilius]

Laudes from me too. Nice interpretation.
Although I am of the opinion that he wears the red(?) felt cup that survives in the folk dress of mountainous areas of Greece.

This cap combined with a narrow scarf that covers the top of ears would be a perfect solution to wearing my Cretan helmet, which does not have the domed top seen on the later Corinthians. It is a tight fitting helmet of thin but springy bronze. The later Corinthians were thicker and I don't think a brass reproduction of the either the early close fitting Corinthian or the Cretan would work as well. As the later Corinthian was perhaps a bit more roomy, a thicker arming cap would be more natural and practical.

For what it's worth.

R. Izard

[Giannis K. Hoplite]

Right,the late corinthian allows for more room in the uper ridge around the head. That's why a thick cap worked very well for me. Also,I know what you mean with the ear covers. It's a lot more comfortable in the action of wearing it and during its rest on the head. It also makes the helm move much less. While my cap reaches behind my ears,I prefer vovering just the top of them just before wearing the helmet.
Gioi this is an excellent cap!I love your son,by the way. We've got the same hair,when i let them grow...
Khairete
Giannis

[Kineas]

Nice cap, Gioi! I'll fins a source of felt and try it, but I know that felt can be shaped--even by hand--without the labour of ten thousand back-stitches...