Filling holes in steel

[Tarbicus]

Ever modified a piece of kit, or wanted to, but there's a hole in the steel from perhaps a rivet? Here's a handy set of instructions which might not be for ancient projects, but still might come in useful.

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=7784

[Gaius Julius Caesar]

WOW, interesting stuff Jim!

[M. Demetrius]

If you can torch weld and you can clamp a piece of brass on the backside of the metal, just fill the hole with the same sort of steel and file, sand, polish, and be on your way.

Sounds easier than it is. But the steel won't generally stick to the brass, so it acts as a dam to hold the filler. If you get too heavy with the torch, you'll melt the brass, though.

[P. Clodius Secundus]

For patching holes in autobody panels, especially on antique vehicles where youve got some pretty thick metal I just turn down the "heat" and turn up the gas and wire feed on my little mig-welder and use a thick copper "spoon" behind the piece. The same works well for filling rivet holes in helmets. Filing is definitely better than grinding away any build up. There's less heat to warp the surrounding area. I know it's somewhat OT but here's a picture of a Finnish Suomi SMG that I welded back together as a dummy gun for WWII use. It still could use a little work, but when I got it the reciever it was BATF (Bureau of Alcohol, Tobacco, & Firearms) cut to non-gun status. That means there were three diagonal torch cuts across the receiver. Each cut removed a 1/4" wide swath of metal that cut it into four separate chunks. The only way it could hurt some one now is if the dropped the drum magazine on their foot. Right Rich?