Mainz Calceus Reconstruction

[Gaivs Antonivs Satvrninvs]

Sorry for the delay,Martin. I just saw your reply this a.m.
We'll be in Stuttgart, Schwaebisch Gmuend, Aalen (looking at Roman sites on the Limes strasse) and also to Winterthur.Sw. Maybe we could meet somewhere enroute if possible. Be great to meet you.Send me a p.m.

Sorry,Mods and all for the o.t.

The calceii are really beautiful, a work of art.(ok, back on track).
These would be 2nd C.???

[Martin Moser]

The calceii are really beautiful, a work of art.(ok, back on track).
These would be 2nd C.???

Early 1st century AD, rather, but should be good for 1st century generally I think.

[Gaivs Antonivs Satvrninvs]

That's good to know. We can use an alternative to caligae sometimes.
No nails in them then? If so, they'd be good for doing museum gigs,etc. where hobnails are a liability.

[Martin Moser]

That's good to know. We can use an alternative to caligae sometimes.
No nails in them then? If so, they'd be good for doing museum gigs,etc. where hobnails are a liability.

There are both nailed and unnailed finds, so both are possible

[Martin Moser]

Before the upper can get on the last, the insole has to be prepared. I cut it out roughly and a bit oversized and fix it to the last with 3 nails (that method exist since the middle ages at least, I don't know about Roman times, though. Then the insole os cut to size following the outline of the last.



Now the upper is pulled over the last and fixed with a nail at the front and back and a few more along the sides. Check after every nail if the upper is sitting correctly on the last!



Close the gaps between the nails, pulling the leather into place and fixing it with a nail.



This way of fixing the upper may never have been practised back then. In all the articles I've read, researchers graciously avoid all details of how this way actually done, using small nails works very well at least ...
Also, many of the originals have a second strip of leather (sometimes doubled) as a lasting margin reinforcement. I didn't add this here as the leather I am using is quite strong in itself.

[Martin Moser]

When the upper is held in place tightly, I cut back the lasting margin to about 6-7 mm inside the row of nails



The nails are then beaten inwards and the lasting margin is smoothed with the hammer all around, especially at the front and the heel, where due to the curve there is an "excess" of material.



Now the bracing of the upper starts. This can be done spirally along the margin or as crossbracing, both ways are know from the finds and I use both, crossbracing along the sides and spiralling round the front and heel. The thread goes through the lasting margin of the upper and the insole (a curved awl is necessary for this)

[Martin Moser]

I pull out the nails as I work my way along the sole.





Since the upper here s not so thick I didn't use laminae, that is pieces of leather that make up the height difference caused by the lasting margin. Here's an example from another shoe for such laminae, held in place by a leather lace threaded through the insole

[Martin Moser]

Now the shoe is ready for putting on the outer sole. This can be done by tunnel stitch, nailing, or both combined (all versions are known).
Like the insole, I cut out the outer sole a bit too large first, cutting it to the right size once it is sewn and nailed fast into place.

The details of tunnel stitch and nailing can be seen at the Valkenburg/Castleford style caliga step by step here on RAT, so I won't repeat those, just one picture of the same thing in progress with a Vindolanda style shoe



Finally the tongue and the straps need to be cut to the right length and we're back where we started from:

[Gaivs Antonivs Satvrninvs]

Wow hock:
Absolutely fantastic! Thanks for that great demonstration.

[Sextus Aurelius Propertiu]

Splendid job as usual and such useful for all of us

New laudes to you martin !

Sextus Aurelius Propertius

[aitor iriarte]

Another fantastic work and how-to, Martin, many thanks!!

Aitor

[Robert Vermaat]

Stunning what you do with leather! Do you also make shoes for sale?

[Martin Moser]

Hi all,

thanks for the comments and glad you like it :-) )

Stunning what you do with leather! Do you also make shoes for sale?

Basically yes, but my output is not very high as I only can do this besides and after family, home and job have had their due (which normally means one or two hours in the evening when time allows). That also is one of the reasons I do not want to advertise this in the marketplace section or try to put up shop there.

[TITVS SABATINVS AQVILIVS]

Martin, if it was possible give you a dozen of laudes in a single shot, I'd do it... Thanks

Vale,

[Neuraleanus]

Am I looking at this right, you're putting the upper on the last right-side out, stitching on the in-sole. I've seen some descriptions of lasted shoe making where the upper was put on the last inside-out. Also the preferred upper material for calcei is goat skin, not cow leather.