Lorica Segmentata Girdle Plates problem

[Magnus]

Ahhh...ok, that makes perfect sense Sean. Thanks.

That tool looks dangerous, btw. lol

[marsvigilia]

Sean,

Thanks for the tip. I'd never tried cross splitting a rivet to aid removal. I'll give it a try.

[Hibernicus]

I learned the technique of "crossing" a peened rivet from a medieval armorer. A "crossed" rivet is, in the Middle Ages, religious and functional!

[marsvigilia]

I learned the technique of "crossing" a peened rivet from a medieval armorer. A "crossed" rivet is, in the Middle Ages, religious and functional!

Well a great tip. I've practiced on about a dozen. The quartered section of the peening just breaks apart like it is perforated. A couple of times the punch punched clean through the peen and wore it like a collar.

A very cool technique.

Thanks again Sean.

Laudes.

[Hibernicus]

Thanks Tony

I use the same tool to punch holes in seg plates for rivets.

In the past, it was mark the hole with a pencil, divet the hole with a nail set prior to drilling (to stop the bit from wandering) and drill or use the whitney punch.

Now, its mark and drift punch the hole. The punching is faster than drilling and faster than a whintey punch. And a drift punch doesn't get dull or need cutting oil or create micro metal splinters. AND lots less expensive than a drill or whitney punch!

[Tarbicus]

Sean, have you got a photo or link to the kind of drift punch you use? It sounds like a really useful tool, but there are stacks of different ones on the web.

[marsvigilia]

Thanks Tony

I use the same tool to punch holes in seg plates for rivets.

In the past, it was mark the hole with a pencil, divet the hole with a nail set prior to drilling (to stop the bit from wandering) and drill or use the whitney punch.

Now, its mark and drift punch the hole. The punching is faster than drilling and faster than a whintey punch. And a drift punch doesn't get dull or need cutting oil or create micro metal splinters. AND lots less expensive than a drill or whitney punch!

What do you use for backing. Just a piece of scrap wood? Something with a hole? How do you make sure the hole and the punch line up?

[Hibernicus]

I like a long handled punch with a larger handle that way I can hold it with my fist and still see the rivet head. There are many choices. A good hardware store stocks them, often in sets of various sizes.. fun to reshape them for triangles and rectangles... I use a retangular punch for the Newstead segs I'm working on.

A safe backing material to punch against or into would be a hardwood board.. mounted securely to reduce/eliminate bounce. I have a section of my work bench for punching that I replace from time to time. Damn bench must weigh about 400lbs!

You can use a plastic cutting board, but if it bounce too much punching becomes difficult.

Best would be a lead block... one I use from time to time is 12x12x2 inches. all the usual warnings about safety, of course.

[Hibernicus]

How's the repair going??

Anyone else work on drifting rivets out of a hole?

[brennivs - tony drake]

GRUMIO,A lorica is made to a simple mathimatical formula as per the originals.I live approximataly 40 miles from Corbridge and have seen the original pieces.The girdle plates have a taper to them, which is also shown in Russell Robisons book which I have a copy.The ones I have made for private collecter was tapered and worked great. The top 3 plates are the same length takening into account the slite loss of a plate on top of another. Then the other plates decrecse by so much, unfotunatly my lorica is on loan to a museum so I can`t send you the size diffrence yet. Also the right hand side has to be aprox 1 inch longer for over lap as well as the above shoulder plate, so each side of the plate end on the right side is 1/2 inch passed the fasening ring if you dont already do that.I think I may have the size difference in my vast libary some were so I will post them onto you ASP Regards Brennivs
:!: also try with a cardboard template first if that works transfer to metal.

Hope this is some use to you

[brennivs - tony drake]

Grumio,I fought to mention that I precurve each plate before using them after I fit the brass work.This my be a bit fiddly and time consuming,but Ive had no problems making my Loricas this way. Good luck,I am still looking for that size difference. Regerds Brennivs

[marsvigilia]

GRUMIO,A lorica is made to a simple mathimatical formula as per the originals.I live approximataly 40 miles from Corbridge and have seen the original pieces.The girdle plates have a taper to them, which is also shown in Russell Robisons book which I have a copy.The ones I have made for private collecter was tapered and worked great. The top 3 plates are the same length takening into account the slite loss of a plate on top of another. Then the other plates decrecse by so much, unfotunatly my lorica is on loan to a museum so I can`t send you the size diffrence yet. Also the right hand side has to be aprox 1 inch longer for over lap as well as the above shoulder plate, so each side of the plate end on the right side is 1/2 inch passed the fasening ring if you dont already do that.I think I may have the size difference in my vast libary some were so I will post them onto you ASP Regards Brennivs
:!: also try with a cardboard template first if that works transfer to metal.

Hope this is some use to you

I have heard that Mike Bishop said that there is no change in length (tapering) of the girdle plates found.

[Magnus]

Why would they decrease? What, are we supermodels with tiny waistes? lol

[marsvigilia]

Why would they decrease? What, are we supermodels with tiny waistes? lol

Not me certainly.

[brennivs - tony drake]

The tapering I am refering to is slite. If you have a copy of The Amour Of Imperial Rome 1975 First edition,pages175,180-181 Russell Robinson has put in a slite taper. This is to aiiow the plates to slide between each other without jamming so you can touch your toes.