Valkenburg/Castleford style caliga step by step

[Marcus Mummius]

Salve Neuraleanus,

You can also make your own curved needles. Just stick the into a wooden plank or something, heat them in de middle(this can even be done with a candle) and use a pair of plyers to bend the needle.

Kind regards,

[Martin Moser]

Hi Titus,

Where do you get your "flexible steel sewing needles"? I've been searching the web for a source and have not found any. Do they go by another name? Brand?

I buy them locally in a shop and the guy there has them just simply in a plastic bag, no name or brand, I'm afraid. In German we call them Stahlborsten which would be "steel-bristles". I can ask him the next time I get there for a manufacturer or brand if you want me to. Or I could just simply buy and send you a few.

You could also try and make your own:
http://www.tempora-nostra.de/tempora-no ... php?id=283

I've ordered some curved needles that might do the job.

I found that they didn't work for me. They always seem to have the wrong curvature, what I need is flexibility and the curved needles don't give you that.

In fact with the last few seams I did, I used pig's bristles instead of the (much thicker) steel ones. Actually both have their advantages IMHO. If you want to try those let me know and I'll explain how to persuade the thread to stick to the bristle :-) )

I wanted to experiment with the pig's bristles also because I am in the process of getting together a shoemaker's kit to show and use in front of people during events and I want it to look acceptably contemporary in terms of tools and materials used.

[Neuraleanus]

:?: Ok, do you know of an on-line source of those? If you could send me a few of the steel bristles I would be very grateful. I'll send you a PM.

By the way, the new caligae, pair number 5, are looking good. I'm using 3mm thick leather for the upper, a 6mm bend for the out-sole, and 2mm for the insole. I cut the back curved rather than notched, as shown in the original pattern, and whip stitched together the lower back. That combined with the thicker leather I think should solve the stretching problem that I had with the previous pair. The Le Prevo hobnails look good.

Interesting site. Unfortunately, Bablefish hic-uped on it, but the picture appears self-explanatory. Let's see if I got this right, take a piece if wire, fold it in half with a loop at one end, and solder? I might try that.

[Martin Moser]

Ok, do you know of an on-line source of those?

Unfortunately no (I searched but didn't find anything). I got mine from a guy who makes brushes, brooms etc. Found his stall at a garden/gardening fair and asked him for a handful. Nowadays they are usually imported from China, our local European breeds don't grow long and stiff enough bristles anymore it seems.

If you could send me a few of the steel bristles I would be very grateful. I'll send you a PM.

Ok, I'll send you some shortly then.

The Le Prevo hobnails look good.

I tried them, too, and must say that I'm not too enthusiastic about them. Reason is that they are not forged but cast by some method, with the shafts being too thick throughout. This often results in the shaft bending in the wrong place when clenching them over on an anvil. Of course it works when you just nail them through and thenhammer flat the protruding end, but thats more like riveting IMHO. Wish we had nails more like the originals ...

Interesting site. Unfortunately, Bablefish hic-uped on it, but the picture appears self-explanatory. Let's see if I got this right, take a piece if wire, fold it in half with a loop at one end, and solder?

Right, he uses the strands of a steel cable. If there's anything unclear, just ask and I'll translate the phrase in question for you.

[Neuraleanus]

I tried them, too, and must say that I'm not too enthusiastic about them. Reason is that they are not forged but cast by some method, with the shafts being too thick throughout. This often results in the shaft bending in the wrong place when clenching them over on an anvil. Of course it works when you just nail them through and thenhammer flat the protruding end, but thats more like riveting IMHO. Wish we had nails more like the originals ...

Previously, like most roman reenactors in the USA, I've used Tremont cut nails. These are much too flat to be hobnails. At least the Le Prevo nails look somewhat right. If you find a better source for hobnails, let us know.

I'm looking forward to seeing the needles.

[Martin Moser]

Previously, like most roman reenactors in the USA, I've used Tremont cut nails. These are much too flat to be hobnails. At least the Le Prevo nails look somewhat right. If you find a better source for hobnails, let us know.

Yes, compared to those, they certainly are not bad at all. Wish I had a better source, indeed :-P P

Btw, here's a shot of what the thread with pig's bristles attached looks like:

[Neuraleanus]

I've just completed one caliga. Revisions include:

• 1. 3mm leather for the upper
  2. 6mm bend for the out-sole
  3. Le Prevo hobnails instead of the Tremont cut nails
  4. I cut the back curved instead of notched
  5. A zig-zag tunnel stitch between the out-sole and the upper helps to keep the shoe together

Pictures may be found on my revised caligae HOW-TO page:

[url:1xrl5y1l]http://www.geocities.com/legio_tricesima_cohors_tres/campusMartis/MakingCaligae/MakingAuthenticCaligae.html[/url]

[Neuraleanus]

//69.245.185.34/roman/caligaeOnfeet01Small.jpg[/img]

Preliminary tests indicate that these caligae might be less slippery than the those that I've made using the Tremont Cut Nails. I'm wondering if the irregular surface of the Tremonts are a factor determining how they behave on smooth surfaces.

[Martin Moser]

Hi Titus,

very nice work and a good howto on your page as well!

[Tarbicus]

I'm wondering if the irregular surface of the Tremonts are a factor determining how they behave on smooth surfaces.

That's an interesting point. We've talked about legionaries slipping in the city because of the paving, etc, but the only reference I can find specifically refers to Rome, not cities as a whole.

Nice caligae

[Neuraleanus]

very nice work and a good howto on your page as well!

Thanks Martin. By the way, I received the flexible needles. These would be easy to make. I'll try these out on my next project.

I'm thinking about building a pair of 1st century calcei, the ones that are closed along the foot, but open like a caliga along the ankle. I need a bit more information. In the book, "Stepping through time", it is said these boots had a tongue and were stitched along the side, not the front. I also need to learn how to make a wooden last.

[Martin Moser]

Regarding the discussion we had above on a caliga pattern:

Call Maarten Dolmans in Venray. he is my reference since he came up with this pattern, which most of the re enactors in holland wear.

I contacted him and Maarten kindly answered my question on this (see the pattern at http://198.144.2.125/Roman/Full/caligae.jpg ) as follows:

"The patterns you sent is a simplified version of one of our patterns."

I've asked for the original pattern - still waiting and will update you here if/when I know more (Maarten, if you should be reading this, maybe you can help me out here right awway, perhaps?)

[Quintilianus]

I am wondering if it is possible to dye the reinforcing leather strip at the back of the heel as shown on the reconstruction by Martin Moser. It would give the caligae an even more attractive look. Is there any proof for dying (parts) of caligae?

[ursinius]

http://198.144.2.125/Roman/Full/caligae.jpg (a pattern for you)


Thanks, Marcus, the more the better. Probably the most widely used pattern in my experience. (Note, however, that this is not supported by any finds AFAIK.)

The source of that pattern is Michael Simkins in his Osprey publication. I believe it was based on the german caligae from Cologne(?) published by Lindenschmitt in the 19th century and actually the same model as on the pic posted in this thread by Maurinus, so it is authentic?

Slight correction to another of the posts in this thread: most dutch romans (gemina project) wear caligae of a slightly different pattern that was provided originally by van C. Driel to the Ermine Street Guard. It is said that is is from Valkenburg but I am still unable to thrace the exact source..

A lot of the Valkenburg shoe soles were published in the 1980's: see:

R.M. van Dierendonck, D.P. Hallewas, K.E. Waugh (eds.), The Valkenburg Excavations 1985-1988, Introduction and Details Studies, Nederlandse Oudheden 15, Valkenburg Project 1


However its seems that since then, a lot of them and earlier found ones? perished as a result of bad find management by the excavators... And still not all are published.

Problem is that the upper leathers they found are among those finds that are difficult to trace: unpublished? lost?


I only know those in Groenmans dissertation of the 1960's p. 131,133, 137.


Ursinius/Sebastiaan

Gemina project
equipment officer

[Martin Moser]

I am wondering if it is possible to dye the reinforcing leather strip at the back of the heel as shown on the reconstruction by Martin Moser. It would give the caligae an even more attractive look. Is there any proof for dying (parts) of caligae?

AFAIK no. Probably this is hard to proof with the finds. The few cases where dyeing is reported were non-military shoes.