Caligae Construction

[Matt Lukes]

I stitched the backs of my new caligae using a reinforced vertical double running stitch because that was the way it was shown in the book, "Stepping through Time". There are also illustrations of caligae having this kind of back seam construction in Faugeras's book, "Weapons of the romans". This construction appears to be quite strong.

Sorry, I was meaning the horizontal seam at the base of the heel- not the vertical one. I dont' doubt the latter was strong, but with the way caliga designs are, there isn't much or any leather to fold under the heel to securely connect the upper at that point (it seems to me). That's where I'd expect a fair amount of stress on the seam if the sandals are worn a lot, for extended periods, or in adverse weather conditions. That lead me to wonder what the source of the design was- and the fact that the Offenbach Ledermuseum artifact has such a thin vertical strip up the back that it really doesn't look like it would have a seam there (can't see either way from the image though).

My alternative is to wrap the upper around the foot from the back and simply fold the leather under the sole (cutting wedges where necessary). The stitching necessary would therefore be under the foot, and since the upper is additionally connected mechanically to the sole via the hobnails, there ought to be no serious stress on these seams. Of course I can't defend this design archaeologically, it does seem stronger to me, and would be at least one way of achieving a seamless back if indeed there artifacts that lack them. Some if not most modern shoes and boots are made by folding the bottom of the uppers under the foot, so it definitely does work...

Matt