Paenula and Seam Finishes

[mstraatm]

Ok, I'm working on my new Paenula, and was wondering about seam finishes.  This one has one seam down the middle of the back, and of course, the hood.  If I were to stitch the seams down, would it be appropriate to use a different color thread?  Same for the hem?  

Any documentation for or against?

Thanks for any thoughts.

-Michael Straatmann

[Septimus R G]

Many 1st century garments and textile fragments show seeing techniques and seams. The selvage (edge of fabric) was used often it garments like a tunic hem or the front edges of a Paenula.

The middle back seem should be flat felled. This is seem on tunic fragments. Keep in mind that wool fabric was not brushed like modern fabric and could not keep a cut edge like a modern melton or kersey. Flat felling joins two panels while tucking both edges. Its appropriate to use a fairly tight running stitch and a tight whip stith to finished the fell seam.

The hem needs to be turned twice and sewn with a tight whip stitch or reverse whip stitch. Both are seen on original garments. You can use wool or linen thread, though wool seems to be very common in wool garments in the archaeological record. Feel free to message me for more detailed explanations and pictures of original textiles. Im a professional tailor by day. Roman enthusiast by night.

K. Ford

[mstraatm]

Thanks! That is very useful. Do you know of any extant fragments or such?

Very much appreciated.

-Michael