Mainz style gladius recreation

[Johannesder Taufer]

step 4: trace the scribed design in sharpie so it can be seen while cutting it out.
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[Johannesder Taufer]

step 5: start by clamping the blank in the vise and cutting the extra steel away. Make sure to leave a little bit of extra room so you don't ruin the final shape. After this you should have a very rough sword shape.
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[Johannesder Taufer]

step 6: sand all the edges so they are smooth (RAW METAL IS EXTREMELY SHARP)
step 7: make sure all the edges are even with no rough spots: the picture shows the spots to be removed.
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Step 8: make sure both sides are even and use the bench grinder followed by a hand file to fix any problems.
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[Johannesder Taufer]

step 9: If your blade is to have distal taper, sand it now using the angle grinder and 40 grit wheel.
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step 10: check as you go to see if the taper is correct. sand a little bit at a time to avoid making it too thin. sand more on the parts where more needs it back and forth in big strokes avoids uneven spots

[Johannesder Taufer]

step 11: mark a line down the center of the sides of the blade, this helps you know when you have sanded enough and a getting close to the approximate thickness.
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step 12: scribe and mark another center line (sanding distal taper removed old one)

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[Johannesder Taufer]

step 13: slowly start to grind (angle grinder with 40 grit sanding disk)
at the approximate edge angle required. Use the lines on the side and middle of the blade for guides.
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step 14: repeat on all sides and check the guidelines often.
step 15: when you are very close to the lines, stop and use the hand files.

Jim: I am stuck here. How to I get a flat grind using a file? The best I can do is not flat.

[PhilusEstilius]

This is indeed a very good how to with also good pictures however if I might add to it just a little by saying that whilst the grinding is being done, I have always found it better not to cut the tang thin but to keep it much wider and this helps to strengthen the whole thing while griding pressure is applied.

[Augustus Janus]

Good run down John. Liking the results. You use much the same technique I use though I probably used half as many tools :-)

I found that once I get the overall shape and profile the markings become either non existent or superfluous and a keen eye works very well for the edge and centerline.
Great job. Keep it up mate!

Jim

[Johannesder Taufer]

Thanks for the encouragement guys. How do I finish the diamond shape? Mine is more lenticular. Careful grinding? 20 hours more filing?

[Augustus Janus]

Hi John

I got the diamond shape originally with the belt sander. It can also be done with a grinding disk on the angle grinder and follow with a flap disk. Mainly it just requires a steady angle with the grinder and a good eyeball. Keep it straight as possible and don't rotate the disk over the top. Move it in a straight line down the length. I've done several and it's not too difficult. The belt grinder I used was a 150mm fixed stand grinder not a hand held type. I could rough out a Pompeii or Mainz in under two hours with it. But all my intermediate finishing was with the angle grinder. With good technique the angle grinder can do a good job if you hold it on a steady plane.

I want to get some scothbrite disks to try as a polishing method. Hand finishing is hard on an old guy with bad shoulders and elbows.

[TFRufio]

Blade by Mark Morrow. It seems to taper inward toward the middle, but it does not.
[attachment=10161]FulhamMainz.JPG[/attachment]

[Augustus Janus]

Mark does some really nice work. That's a nice sword.