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Roman purple wasn\'t purple!
#16
Lee,<br>
As I said earlier, her measuring "units" can be tricky, but it's amazing how well they work. The rule of thumb is three times your height. I'm 6' and my toga measures eighteen feet in length (six yards). Since my imperial sinus is almost as big as the base, I had to double that at the fold seam (twelve yards). The Ara Pacis toga has a smaller sinus and less bulk overall. Usually, since the the toga doesn't hang from the head to the feet, but from the shoulders to the ankles, the extra footage is taken up by the wrapping around the girth.<br>
I guess a major question would be the width of the bolt to begin with. The fabric I got from Italy was over double the width of the usual American manufacture, so I only have one seam. My other togas, made from American wool, aren't quite wide enough, except for an early "Arringatore" skimpy toga. You might well need the extra three yards to get the full length in the under wrap.<br>
Keep us posted.<br>
<br>
Wade<br>
[email protected] <br>
www.togaman.com <p></p><i></i>
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#17
I'm having 12 yards of the #44004 wool flannel sent to La Wren's Nest. I don't trust myself with such expensive fabric (I have too many other projects going on now anyways.). I've e-mailed them the first three patterns from the Wilson book. <p></p><i></i>
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#18
La Wren's Nest also has the whole Toga book on CD-ROM; I provided it to them over a year ago. <p></p><i></i>
Caius Fabius Maior
Charles Foxtrot
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#19
I had them make the "large republican toga" (though I have to admit I'm a Kerry fan). I bunched the toga up and wraped it like the Arringatorre. I haven't yet figured out how Wilson managed to get the look that she shows for the later republican togas (figures 12 and 13 of the book). Here I am:<br>
<br>
66.66.131.145/roman/toga01.jpg<br>
<p></p><i></i>
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#20
Lee,<br>
Maybe I can help, but remember, I only have that picture to go on (no criticism implied). My first impression is this. You have too much material hanging over your left wrist and your umbo, the shoulder folds that anchor the structure, is not quite big enough to do the job. The solution is the same.<br>
<br>
When you lay that first layer over your left shoulder, there always seems to be too much fabric over the left wrist.<br>
Hold you left arm straight out and leave it there (good training workout!) Have someone else (until you get the hang of it) at your left side start lifting up the edge at your neck with the fingers of both hands. Flip the thumbs, holding a span of wool, under: this should result in a fold of about 2"-2 1/2" depending on the size of the hand. Repeat this process, the "accordian fold," piling the folds under each other until the outer edge of the toga lays above the left wrist. It's going to look and feel at this point that you have way too much fabric piled up on your left shoulder. That's OK.<br>
<br>
Make sure at this point that the folder has not pulled the fabric behind you up too high. If so, just pull the outer edge down until it brushes the left calf. Maintaining the integrity of the folds, wrap the rest around the back, tightly, under the right arm and across the chest. Now comes the tricky part. With your right hand grab the folds and hold it tight to your chest. Your assistant now throws the rest of toga back over your left shoulder.<br>
<br>
What I see in your picture is that this second layer lies separate from the umbo. Have your assistant take the second layer of folds and push them (a little at a time) under the umbo. Not just an inch or two, but push the material with a flat hand under the pile of folds and across your upper back as far as they will go, multiple times until the outer edge of the second layer lies just on top of the wrist. This will automatically reduce the number of folds at the neck without sacrificing the embedded folds. This will also put most of the weight across the back and well anchored so it will be less likely to shift forward and fall off.<br>
Take the umbo that is left at your shoulder and pull up the first fold gently to form the sinus. That should be it.<br>
To create the republican arm-sling effect, reach your right hand behind your head and grab the band of folds (like you'd have to do anyway to cover the head for sacrificing or auguring) and pull it up over your right shoulder. Play around with it until you make a sling.<br>
I know this is not comprehensible in words. I could show someone in a couple of minutes, but I stood in front of mirrors for months trying all kinds of strategies in order to be able to master it myself. I'm glad no one took pictures of me the first time I ever had one on.<br>
Again, I hope I helped.<br>
<br>
Wade Heaton<br>
[email protected] <br>
[url=http://www.togaman.com" target="top]www.togaman.com[/url] <p></p><i></i>
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#21
66.66.131.145/roman/FortM...Toga01.jpg<br>
<br>
A bit of clarification is need here. What part of the toga do you mean by the "umbo"? <p></p><i></i>
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#22
Lee,<br>
I think the second image is much better. As always, the glare of the sunlight makes the actual folds a bit difficult to see, but the overall impression is much improved from the first photo. The umbo isn't well covered in Wilson, but Sebesta and Bonfanti in "The World of Roman Costume" define it as : "A term used to designate the bunching of cloth pulled from the portion draped over the left side of the body over the sinus. It apparently helped to hold the garment in place." I use it as the "anchor" where the under layer and the over layer folds hold each other together. It literally translates as "knob," but that kind of awareness only comes from get it right and having the drape of the sinus act as a pocket--see later imperial models for that feature.<br>
<br>
Wade Heaton<br>
[email protected] <br>
[url=http://www.togaman.com" target="top]www.togaman.com[/url] <p></p><i></i>
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#23
The book, "The Roman Toga" by Lillian May Wilson referenced above, has been reprinted through Kessinger publishers, who specialize in reprints of old and out of print books. http://www.kessinger.net

This copy is $20 on Amazon in paperback, $30 in hardback.

http://www.amazon.com/Roman-Toga-Lillia ... 739&sr=8-9

And yes, I long lost the CD that had this on it. I have better luck with books.

I created a spreadsheet (easy to do) of the formula such that you put in your girth (waist) and unit (neck to floor) and out pops the correct sizing for the pattern.
Richard Campbell
Legio XX - Alexandria, Virginia
RAT member #6?
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