Oiling hilt parts

[Augustus Janus]

I know that generally most people use boiled linseed oil for wood treating such as hilt hardware. Did the Roman troops use this or would they have used boiled olive oil which they commonly had on hand? And if they did is olive oil a good treatment or is linseed so far superior that olive oil should be avoided? Just something I was wondering about as I have a gladius with oak pieces that I want to treat. I have olive oil in the house but no linseed oil.

[Manius Acilius Italicus]

Jim, I can't speak for the original oils used, but you can get a quart of the "modern" version of boiled linseed oil at Home Depot. Not that expensive and worked well. I understand that the commercial variety is not really boiled but that the manufacturers use chemicals instead.
I know olive oil lasts a long time, but wonder if it might go rancid and also leave an oily residue on something like a sword handle?

[Augustus Janus]

Thanks for the input Robert. I was thinking the same things. I don't recall ever reading of anyone having any experience with it. I have heard of people using olive oil for furniture but not for sword hardware so I thought "Where is the best advice on Roman customs in the world?" Why it's RAT of course.

[Dan D'Silva]

I've always read that the reason linseed oil is used for hilt parts is because it's a "drying" oil (forms polymers and hardens when exposed to air) so the hilt won't feel oily. Though as a disclaimer, I don't have enough experience to say whether this really makes a big difference.

[Robert]

The best linseedoil can be found at a craftshop, where you can also get the terpentine oil (NOT white spirit, but the real stuff used to delute oilpaints) you use to make the linseedoil penetrate deeper into the wood. Terpentine oil is distilled from pine ressin. Add about 20 %. The Romans had plenty of linseedoil, they grew flax to make linen from, so I do not think they would have used olive oil on their wood. That does stay sticky and does turn rancid. I use that mixture of linseed oil and true terpentine oil on all my handles and it works very well.

[Augustus Janus]

Thanks Dan and Robert. I will probably have to get some linseed oil then. Thanks again for the info

[Augustus Janus]

Finally bought some linseed oil but the only thing B&Q had for turpentine is turpentine substitute. Not sure what's in it or even if to use it at all. Maybe need to shop around for the real thing.

[Manius Acilius Italicus]

Jim, I did a little experiment on my linseed oiled black walnut hilt and it did absorb a little water. What Robert says about adding turpentine to help with the penetration would probably aid in repelling water, sweat, etc. I don't think I'd use any "substitutes" at this point. Why take a chance after all the work that goes into making a hilt?
Home Depot, Lowes and most craft shops should carry what you need and the cost is not prohibitive.
Before I complete my gladius, I'm going to do the same thing. I might add that the process will have to be repeated over time if you actively use the hilt, as the sweat will lessen the repelling factor.

[Augustus Janus]

Thanks Robert. Home Depot and Lowes were two of my regular haunts when I lived in Alabama. B&Q is one of the biggest in Scotland and I was rather surprised they didn't have normal turpentine. The boiled linseed oil was a fairly reasonable price. It was a good sized bottle for 5 pounds. I need to do some looking around. There's got to be turpentine somewhere here. It's not like some rare commodity after all.

[markusaurelius]

I bought my linseed oil online hand pressed and meant for making soaps etc. Its application on the hilt of the dagger I made workederfect. Nicely sealed the wood, but did not make it tacky in any way.

[Augustus Janus]

I wonder how the hand pressed (I assume the same as cold pressed) compares with the boiled oil over time. Allegedly the cold pressed is slightly more acidic and good for paints. May be very little difference.

[A_Volpe]

Boiled linseed oil should be fine. Chances are you'll barely need to re-oil after the initial treatment, once a year if that. I tend to just keep an eye on the condition of the wood, if it somehow appears too "dry" I'll rub a very small amount of oil into the wood (it spreads very well, so use sparingly), let it set in overnight, wipe any excess/residue the next day, and call it done.