The Gallic type D reconstruction

[Anonymous]

Hy to you all,<br>
<br>
After four weeks of hammering, a very painful hand (from swinging the heavy hammer) and spending a lot of money on oxygen and acetylene, I have concluded the forging of my Gallic D helmet. However, just before finishing the last steps of the process, something horrific happened.<br>
While working the backside of the helmet with the extra material for the neck-guard, I thinned out the metal too much.<br>
Result: a big hole!<br>
After recovering from this disaster ( a couple of hours later) I decided I had to abandon the idea of a completely forged helmet the ancient way and call in the help of a welder to fix the hole.<br>
But...after polishing the helmet there is still a fine and very vague weld-line visible; It is the kind of thing you only notice If you look for it. However I know it's there and since the piece costed me 500 US-Dollar until now, I need it to be as perfect as possible.<br>
<br>
So my question is, since most reconstructions are welded together, how do you get rid off or disguise the weld-line.<br>
<br>
Your suggestions will be highly appreciated.<br>
<br>
Greetings,<br>
<br>
Jurgen/Quintilianus <p></p><i></i>

[TITVS SABATINVS AQVILIVS]

<br>
Oh, hard problem! if a deep polishing is not enough to hide it, why don't you try with a fine tinning/silvering just on the weld-line? Otherwise you could silver plate the whole helmet as a rich legionary/Optio/Centurio. After all, the "D" is known as the finest of the imperials...<br>
<br>
Vale,<br>
Titus Sabatinus Aquilius<br>
<p></p><i></i>

[Anonymous]

Titus, thanks for your reply.<br>
<br>
Two questions tough:<br>
If you apply a layer of tin on the weld line, won't this be visible too?<br>
<br>
Is it possible to tin the whole helmet yourself or will I need the help of a modern tinning facility?<br>
<br>
Jurgen/Quintilianus <p></p><i></i>

[TITVS SABATINVS AQVILIVS]

Yes, it's visible depending from how is done and after all is a compromise to save your hard work.<br>
<br>
Sure, a homemade work is possible if you know how and have the correct equipment, anyway, to be sure and due to the costs, is better to use a pro facility.<br>
<br>
I have a pro goldening manual somewhere, maybe it can do further suggestions; I'll update you about it.<br>
<br>
Anyway, my personal suggestion is about a total silvering solution as Dan Peterson did for his magnificent centurion helmet, you can ask him on this forum for his way to that silvering:<br>
<br>
<img src="http://users.libero.it/sabsab/titus/Dan's helmet.jpg" style="border:0;"/><br>
<br>
Vale, Titus Sabatinus Aquilius<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<p></p><i></i>

[LUCIUS ALFENUS AVITIANUS]

SALVE<br>
<br>
I try many times to tin iron or steel and i do'nt get succes. Tinnig copper alloys is more easy.<br>
<br>
Obviously to tin a helmet is cheapier than silvering and the appereance probably is little. At our group (legio VII gemina, Tarraco, Spain) we have some gallic helmets tinned and look very close to silvered ones.<br>
<br>
VALE <p></p><i></i>

[TITVS SABATINVS AQVILIVS]

<br>
<br>
Quintilianus,<br>
<br>
looking for a solution in my goldening/silvering/tinning manual, I've chosen this easy method, among a lot, that could help you to fix your problem and that could be used at home:<br>
<br>
It's called "pounce":<br>
<br>
buy a very fine tin powder (you could also do it yourself, but is more complicated); it can be of two types: leafing and non-leafing. You have to do some attempts before on another object to choose which of the two ones gives the best effect for your aim. When you've decided, follow these easy steps:<br>
<br>
1) apply on the interested area the liquid grip by a little brush. I've a lot of grip liquid recipes, but I've some difficulties to translate their ingredients in english: they are not in my english dictionary. So, better that you use a commercial product, just be careful: it has to be neutral not acid, or the applied metallic powder will change aspect.<br>
<br>
2) let the liquid dry enough, but not at all, till by passing your finger on it, it does a strident sound or you feel your finger a little bit gripping on it.<br>
<br>
3) take the metallic powder with the brush and let it fall gently on the area you want to cover. Don't push on it with the brush<br>
<br>
4) only after the area is so covered by the powder, simply spill on some other powder freely and let it fill everywhere<br>
<br>
5) dense and compress the powder by pushing with a bigger brush<br>
<br>
6) polish all<br>
<br>
Then you'd have to get a satisfying masking of the welding line.This is a cheap and easy method, but again, try on a same metal piece first.<br>
<br>
Vale,<br>
Titus Sabatinus Aquilius<br>
<br>
<p></p><i></i>

[Anonymous]

Titus,<br>
<br>
What is "liquid grip"? Is it some sort of glue?<br>
<br>
This method is done without any heat?<br>
<br>
Greetings,<br>
<br>
Jurgen/Quintilianus <p></p><i></i>

[TITVS SABATINVS AQVILIVS]

<br>
If you cannot find it easily (in Italy, one can find it at a good art tools or hobby shop, so it has to be the same there), the simpler thing is to use an acrylic resin (transparent, not acid and sulphur-free).<br>
<br>
No heat at all! Just put by brush a very thin layer of resin on the welding line you want to hide and follow the steps. But try before!<br>
<br>
Vale,<br>
Titus Sabatinus Aquilius<br>
<br>
<p></p><i></i>

[TITVS SABATINVS AQVILIVS]

<br>
BTW, use the resin like a varnish... <p></p><i></i>

[TITVS SABATINVS AQVILIVS]

<br>
... And it will work like a good "liquid grip".<br>
<br>
I've to buy a new and more powerful english dictionary, with the strangest "old" and specialized terms... <p></p><i></i>