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Beverly shears: b1 or b2?
#1
I've been reading that the best metal cutting device for armorers is the Beverly 'throatless' shears. While the armorer lists say the b2 is ideal, it would seem to me the b1, which is a lot smaller and less expensive, would be fine for Roman work, particularly as lorica are 16 or 18 gauge mild steel. Any experience with these models?<br>
<br>
<br>
Capacities<br>
B1 model:<br>
14 gauge mild<br>
18 gauge stainless &nbsp &nbsp &nbsp &nbsp<br>
18 pounds (portable? they sell a stand)<br>
<br>
B2 model:<br>
10 gauge mild<br>
14 gauge stainless &nbsp &nbsp &nbsp &nbsp<br>
35 pounds<br>
<br>
B3 model:<br>
3/16" mild<br>
10 gauge stainless<br>
58 pounds<br>
<br>
<p>Legio XX<br>
Fortius Conamur<br>
<br>
</p><i></i>
Richard Campbell
Legio XX - Alexandria, Virginia
RAT member #6?
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#2
Actually, I use a harbor freight nockoff of the B1 for everything up to 14 gauge. I've had it for 2 years now and have cut up enough metal for 20 helmets, 20 or 30 sets of spaulders and probably 50 gorgets and it seems to be holding up well so far. For roman needs, the B1 should be fine as you won't even be getting into the thicker gauges of metal. <p></p><i></i>
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#3
Wow, sounds like you were pretty lucky with your Harbor Freight B-1! Most of the folks on the Armour Archive have had nothing good to say about it (like it doesn't even work without serious adjustments!). On the other hand, I bought a Whitney hand metal punch from them over 10 years ago and have yet to wear out even the 1/8" die, having built several loricae and numerous other projects with it. (Though it was made in Taiwan, not China, maybe that's the difference!) Hit or miss, I guess, and many of us hobbyists have no trouble with tools that the professionals won't touch, simply because we don't do as much demanding work.<br>
<br>
Richard, you might just want to scope a few ebay auctions for a used BEVERLY B-1, might be about the same cost as a new knockoff one, but better. Or just order the cheap one and send it back if it doesn't work.<br>
<br>
I don't think you'll need a stand for it, probably just bolt to your (future!) workbench like a grinder or vise. I'll be happy to come over and help you play with it, hee hee!<br>
<br>
Valete,<br>
<br>
Matthew <p></p><i></i>
Matthew Amt (Quintus)
Legio XX, USA
<a class="postlink" href="http://www.larp.com/legioxx/">http://www.larp.com/legioxx/
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#4
There are some clones of the Beverly shears, such as the Harbor Freight model. There are however several web pages about modifying its blades and some other aspects to get it to 'work right'. Any one have any experience with that one? <p>Legio XX<br>
Fortius Conamur<br>
<br>
</p><i></i>
Richard Campbell
Legio XX - Alexandria, Virginia
RAT member #6?
Reply
#5
I had to modify my harbor freight when I got it. First, I drilled a 1/4 inch hole through the clamp and into the body of the shear, clean through and inserted a pin so that the clamp (that holds the lower blade) would ride straight out and in without turning. Without the guide pin it's a real pain to tighten the clamp without accidentaly moving the blade. Next, I ground the lower blade to better match the profile of the upper blade so that the same gap is maintained throughout the cut (careful not to let the blade get too hot during grinding). I did this pretty much by eye and finished up by putting the blade in place and checking the gap with a feeler gauge . I used a marker to mark the spots that needed a little more grinding and finished that up by polishing the blades up so that there are no nicks or rough spots. Last mod was to grind the top of the clamp down so that it was level with the top of the lower blade. If you don't do this your metal gets a little crease near the end of the cut. Tighten up all the screws and bolts and oil the crap out of it and you're ready to go. About 2 hours of work and works great for 80 bucks. <p></p><i></i>
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