Jerash, Bosra & Palmyra

[Anonymous]

Hi,

With a bit of luck we'll (the girlfriend now has the Roman bug!) be off to Jordan and Syria and will take in the usual suspects (Petra, Wadi Rum, Kerak, Krak de Chevaliers) plus Madaba (the mosaic map)Damascus, Amman, Bosra, Aleppo, Jerash, Palmyra etc.

Is there anything in particular that we should look out for at these sites, or anywhere else near to these that we should divert to see? The guide books are all very well but I feel that they may well not cover the things of interest to Romanaphiles (sp?) as opposed to the usual 'touristy' things. I'd be gutted to miss something unique!

Spotted Duros Eurpoa on the map whilst planning this, but it was just too far.

Thanks!

[Scipio Bristolus aka Simon]

D'oh! Above posted all excited whilst sorting out linking my previous account. Apologies. :oops:

[Jona Lendering]

Jordan, from south to north

• Wadi Rum. Not interesting from a Roman military point of view, although there is a Nabataean temple at the entrance of the park (where you will change cars). Lawrence of Arabia trained his men over here, but he is not exactly popular in Jordan.
  
• Petra. Interesting site; for Roman army fanatics, there's the tomb of Sextius Florentinius, former commander of the Ninth Legion Hispana and governor of Arabia in 127. This tomb is one of the pieces of evidence that the Ninth was transferred to the Continent and was not annihilated by Caledonians. (photo; scroll down)
  
• Kerak. Crusader castle, of course, but with a small well-kept museum with Roman finds. Site was occupied in Antiquity; Greek inscription.
  
• Lejjun. Legionary base of IIII Martia. Fascinating site.
  
• Qasr Bshir. Probably the best preserved Roman fort in the world. An absolute must-see.
  
• Dibon. Iron age settlement.
  
• Machaerus. Hellenistic fort, built by Herod the Great. Roman siege mould still visible.
  
• Madaba. Interesting, but not necessary for Roman army fans.
  
• Nebo. Nice view, fine mosaics, but not necessary for Roman army fans. A couple of Roman milestones, though.
  
• Qasr al-Abd. Hellenistic fortress. Worth a detour.
  
• Amman. The small, poorly kept museum on the citadel is worth a visit. Many interesting objects, although none of them Roman military. (There are plans to transfer the collection to a new building.) Roman theater, odeon, nymphaeum.
  
• Rum al-Malfouf: spectacular Iron age fort, probably built to protect the Ammonites against the Israelite kingdom.
  
• Jerash (Gerasa). Interesting site with a spectacular temple; small museum; no Roman military objects. Nevertheless an important place to visit.
  
• Umm Qais (Gadara). Well-preserved site, interesting necropolis (Mark 5; "My name is Legion"). Spectacular view of Lake Galilee, Golan Heighths and Yarmuk valley
  

Generally speaking, I was not impressed by the ways Jordan helps its visitors. The men are rude towards women; many archaeological sites, even the most important ones, are not indicated (Qasr Bshir). They want you to visit Jerash and Petra, and leave behind money at the gift shops, and that's all there is. I did not notice any deeply felt passion for their own history. In the Wadi Rum, we were cheated (we hired four cars, we got three).

Best book on Roman army in Jordan: David Kennedy, The Roman Army in Jordan (2004)
Best general guide: Frank Rainer Scheck, DuMont Kunst Reiseführer Jordanien

[Jona Lendering]

Syria, clockwise

• Bosra. Excellent site, but the legionary base is not really visible. Impressive Nabataean remains. Famous theater with museum; inscriptions and statues.
  
• Damascus. Ancient walls; the Umayyad mosque is splendid (and built inside the ancient temple). Everything related to Barnabas and Paul is fake, but the tomb of Saladin is real. Splendid museum. Bribe the guards to be allowed to make photos. In the garden an inscription of Apollodorus of Damascus.
  
• Saydnaya Monastery: where people still speak Aramaic, they say. Which is as ridiculous like saying that I, as a Dutchman, still speak Frankish. To be avoided.
  
• Kadesh: nothing to be seen, but if you pass along it, it's worth a brief pause to observe the plain of the famous battle.
  
• Raphaneae: legionary base. I was sick, did not visit the place; my friends were not impressed.
  
• Krak de Chevaliers. I was sick; friends were impressed.
  
• Apamea: impressive, comparable to Jerash. The Roman military fan must visit the museum with dozens of (unpublished) tombstones of soldiers of II Parthica. Seleucid citadel, inaccessible.
  
• Ugarit. Bronze age, spectacular.
  
• Ebla. Bronze age, spectacular. Enceinte well preserved; visit the "Amorite Gate".
  
• Aleppo. Spectacular museum (review); ask a permit to take photos. The citadel is interesting.
  
• Dead Cities: splendid. I liked Mushabbak, but there is a lot more to be seen, although none of it is special from a military point of view. Nevertheless, the Monastery of Saint Simeon is absolutely splendid. In the neighborhood Iron Age fort Ayn Dara; close to the Turkish border Cyrrhus, legionary base.
  
• Resafa/Sergiopolis: fortress where Sergius and Bacchus were martyred, two military saints. Impressive walls and churches.
  
• Zenobia. Well-preserved Byzantine fortress. On the opposite bank is Zalebiye; you need to make a long detour to get there (we decided to call it a day, although I would have liked to visit it).
  
• Deir ez-Zor: best museum of Syria, although few Roman military objects.
  
• Dura Europos: captured by the Sasanians. Siege mole and battered towers still visible. One wall collapsed on top of a synagogue; the frescos were well-preserved (now in Damascus). Small museum.
  
• Mari. Bronze Age. I was unable to go there; Roger Pearse explains why.
  
• Qasr al-Heir al-Sharqi. Islamic age, but worth a detour; some Roman spolia.
  
• Palmyra. No introduction needed. The Diocletianic Camp and the temple of the War Goddess are the most interesting things for Roman army fans.
  
• Dumeir. Small temple.
  

You will find that the Syrians are more interested in archaeology than the people of Jordan. Bribe anyone you can, it is easy.

Recommended guide: Ross Burns, Monuments of Syria. An Historical Guide (1992, 1999)

[Spurius Papirius Cursor]

...Apamea:... The Roman military fan must visit the museum with dozens of (unpublished) tombstones of soldiers of II Parthica....

Great for those interested in this Legion too! Any photos?

Cheers

[Jona Lendering]

I have a full collection; just drop me a p.m. with an address and I will send a DVD.

[Tibor Grull]

Could you tell me what is the GPS coordinate of Raphanaea? Was this site ever excavated? Thanks a lot.

[mcbishop]

Could you tell me what is the GPS coordinate of Raphanaea? Was this site ever excavated? Thanks a lot.

Survey work has been undertaken by the DAI. You can find the area of the geophysical survey illustrated on Fig.4 on that web page at 34° 56' 31.38" N, 36° 23' 49.36" E

As well to note too that, so far as I am aware, the use of GPS is forbidden in Syria without special permission.

Mike Bishop