How to tie a Roman Helmet?

[Gaius Colletti]

Hi, I have just recently gotten into the re-enactment hobby, and was able to get a hold of a helmet (some sort of the infamous trooper helmet). Though I was able to get it for $15 and figured it was a gateway into the hobby, and I plan on upgrading in the future to an actual replica helmet. However for now, I have this trooper helmet.

Because naturally this cheap helmet lacks anysort of loops tie string through, as a makeshift solutions, just to see how it would work, taped keyrings on either side of the cheek guards, but have recently seen strings which appear to to hang from the back of the helmet, and are pulled forward to tie around the cheekguards, will this make the helmet more stable?

My bigggest concern is that while I am moving my head around, that the helmet stays in place, which for the most part it does. However is it possible to keep the helmet stable while say looking at the ground. I use a cut up, and folded up shirt as arming cap, but is there anything else I can do to make the helmet more stable while I am moving around?

Please, I know the trooper helmet is much hated (and for good reason, I agree) but I am looking for real help, so please do not post "Throw it away" Thanks!

[Matthew Amt]

Ave!

Not the sort of entrance most of us would encourage, no, but for that price don't sweat it *too* much. Generally there is a ring or pair of rings under the neckguard, in the middle, and the chin ties hang from that. Bring them forward alongside the neck, cross them under your chin, and stick them through the loops on the cheekpieces, then tie under the chin. Very stable.

A folded old shirt for padding may be very authentic! I suspect they chopped old tunics for such things.

This is a good chance to practice your workshop skills. Get a cheap hand-held metal hole punch and/or an electric drill, a hammer or two, some metal snips (Wiss brand offsets), and a file or two. A couple coat hangers or just some heavy wire, and scrap metal such as tin cans. Make a few of these (the tab can be rectangular rather than rounded!):

http://www.larp.com/legioxx/hlmring.jpg

And here's my helmet padding:

http://www.larp.com/legioxx/helmint.jpg

Just in case you missed it, check out the rest of my humble Legio XX site:

http://www.larp.com/legioxx/

Oh, and promise us that when you DO get a decent helmet, this trooper thing will never be seen on your head again, eh? Donate it to a local theater group, or to a church for their Christmas shows, or something.

And good luck!

Matthew

[Gaius Colletti]

Thanks a lot Matt, I have checked out the Legio XX site more than once, its great. I do plan on getting a much nicer helmet down to road, but for the price, I couldn't pass up the trooper, especially as it is my first piece getting into the hobby.

Until then, do you have any suggestions as far as maintaining the helmet? I have done a google search or two, with little results, other than use a "non-acidic" wax. I was just thinking of using turtle wax I use on my car, do you have any suggestions?

Finally do you recommend glueing the padding onto the helmet? or does the cloth just get too dirty and sweaty, and need to be changed time to time?

[Magnus]

There is a section on Matt's site about maintenance, but the long and short is scotchbrite pads to get a nice satin finish, then I prefer a nice light coat of mineral oil. Others have their own preference for oils of course. I'd maybe avoid the turtle wax....

I also dont recommend gluing the liner in...it will get stinky and then your head will smell like a hockey bag.

[M. Demetrius]

it will get stinky and then your head will smell like a hockey bag.

And a very large percentage of Roman reenactors have no hair on top. Perhaps it's the glued in linings?

For what it's worth, the "half sized" electric sanders hold a ScotchBrite pad exactly right. Saves a little time and a lot of elbow when the work day comes around.

[Matthew Amt]

Right, Scotch-Brite pads (not the generic ones! too slick), and most any kind of non-vegetable oil. I use 3-in-1. Some folks use WD-40 (otherwise known as "mother's milk" and truly a holy substance!), but it's a solvent and may be bad on the leather. Whatever you use, the secret is to USE IT. After the helmet is worn and handled, give it a quick wipe with a little oil. Before you wear it out in rain or high humidity, oil it up. Never come home from an event and just chuck it in a corner, expecting to take care of it in a few days when you have time--it'll rust.

Oh, on the brass parts don't use abrasives like Scotch-brite, instead I use fine steel wool or a polish like NevrDull or Brasso. But oil is fine.

Go ahead and glue the lining in with liquid hide glue. Eventually it will fall out, but by that time it will probably be time to upgrade or replace it anyway. (On mine I just replace the linen layer and keep the wool layers.) Sure, nothing wrong with a loose lining, but I just find it so much more convenient when showing the helmet off or letting folks handle or try it on if the lining is permanently fixed in place.

Valete,

Matthew

[Gaius Colletti]

Thanks for the tips guys, so use WD-40 or any kind of oil with the exception of vegetable oil. other oils though like mineral oil are fine? Whats the problem with vegetable?
Regardless of what oil I used, just rub it in with a scotch brite pad?

I didn't see a link on your Legio XX site for maintenence Matt, would you mind posting a link, perhaps I am just overlooking it. Thanks again

[Magnus]

Hey Matt (welcome to the Matt club, btw)

Once you've given your helmet a once over with the scotch brite pads, just take a small little rag, put some oil on it and wipe the helmet off. Vegatable oil will eventually start to go rancid...not a good thing.

Here is the link to the steel maintenance on the other Matt's site lol. It's right near the bottom of the page.

http://www.larp.com/legioxx/armrhnts.html

[Matthew Amt]

Boy, I'm glad you remembered that, I had no idea where that bit was! Yeah, the Scotchbrite is mostly for removing rust and giving an even satin finish (rather than the hard gloss that most Indian stuff comes with). For tough jobs, I'll stick one of those pads on the sanding disc on my electric drill, and trim off the corners. Zoom!

Matthew

[Gaius Colletti]

Thanks for the link and tips, I just got back from Wal-Mart, and picked up some Mineral Oil, and some Scotch Brite "non-scratch" sponges. Not having internet access in the store, I wasn't sure if I should have gotten heavy duty pads, so I played it safe and got the non scratch ones. I'd post pictures, but I doubt anyone wants to see pictures of the trooper helmet. lol

[Magnus]

Did the sponges you purchased have the green and yellow part to them? If they do, those are more for doing dishes lol. But that's ok, they'll still work ok on rust.

The ones we mean come in a sheet, about 4 inches wide by 6 or 7 inches long. They are somewhat thin, maybe 1/4" or so. Like these: http://sigmasupply.shoppkg.com/shop/C3734.aspx

[Gobae]

Other oils though like mineral oil are fine? Whats the problem with vegetable?

In addition to what Magnus said about vegetable oil going rancid, it also gets sticky and often times yellows as it's aging.

Someone mentioned a caveat about petroleum oils and leather. Now, I've not had any problems with that, but it got me to thinking that maybe neet's foot oil or lanolin might do both the leather and metal acceptably? Don't know, never tried it, just a thought.

[Gaius Colletti]

Its ok Gobae, vegetable oil lost me at rancid... haha

My mineral oil scrubbed helmet has sat overnight now. The mineral oil is still very much slick and slippery. Will it evaporate quickly? Do I just wipe off the oil with a towel before I wear it, and then reapply when I'm done?

Edit: Here is the link to the sponge I bought, more than likely will be soft soft against, rust, but hopefully I won't have a rust issue

http://www.walgreens.com/store/c/scotch-...93-product

[M. Demetrius]

Will it evaporate quickly?

Nope.

If that's a problem, take a soft cloth with a little paint thinner on it and give it a quick wipe, not so much as to remove all the oil, just reduce it some.

Mineral oil is better for a back rub than for metal treatment. Don't use WD-40 for a back rub, though. :-? :grin:

[Magnus]

Actually, mineral oil is perfectly fine Dave. The Japanese have been using mineral oil, with a small amount of clove in it (to distinguish it from their cooking oil), on Nihonto (katana) for centuries (called choji oil). Many of these blades are considered priceless.

It will be more than fine for mild steel. I've been using it for a couple years now, with no ill effect, and it is fine on leather as well.

Matt, you just want a very light coat of oil on it...you can always give it a quick wipe prior to wearing if need be, but you can also just leave it...especially if you are going to be handling it at all. Fingerprints will be your worst enemy, as they will corrode the metal quicker than most other things it will come in contact with.