I boil my bones for five or six hours in a large pot. During this time the marrow and much of the fat and oil will come out of the bone and it is important to change the water several times to stop this being absorbed back into the bone. I then leave them to dry for a few days in a warm dry place (or at least, a place which is not too cold). Make sure you scrape off as much of the meat and sinew as you can with a sharp knife before you start to boil the bones. It will only be more stuff to boil off and potentially discolour the bone with. If the nocks have been removed (and it is a good ideal to do this before boiling the bone) you may be able to cut much of the marrow out of the bone with a sharp knife before you boil it, which will reduce the time you need to boil all of the oil and fat out of the bone. If it looks as if all the fat etc has not left the bone after you have left it to dry for a day or two, do not be too afraid to boil it up again but whatever you do, do not let it boil dry. One other thing - boiling bone is a somewhat smelly process so if you have a wife with a weak stomach it may be best to wait until she goes away for a few days.
Your bone should not become too porous if it is not left outside for too long and is not left in sustained damp conditions. Most professional bone carvers I have spoken to have told me that they bleach their bones by leaving them for two or three weeks on the roofs of their sheds or on shelves outside to bleach in the sun. Of course, in bleaching the bones in this manner they are trying to achieve the white colouring that most people associate with bone. I know of no evidence to suggest however, that the Romans felt that this was important. In any case, even if you do succeed in whitening your bone, in time you will find that it will take on colouration through use. This is normal as bone is porous in any case and your grip will gradually absorb the natural oils present in your hand, along with any other oils or fats which find their way onto your hand. Because of this the colour will gradually change from white (probably unevenly) to reflect the colouration it picks up though use. Do not be disappointed by this when you see it happening - it will mean that your grip is becoming more like the actual ones probably would have been.
The picture below shows my sword handle shortly after I made it (and prior to it becoming discoloured by whatever it picks up from my hand, along with dicolouration from rubbing against my armour and my sometimes oily forearm).
I have a question. Which bone are you using? You need to use the rear cannon bone of a calf. Any other bone will be the wrong shape or size. Even if it is a cannon bone, if it is from an adult it will be too large and if it is from a foreleg it will have the wrong cross section. If your bone still retains its nocks, look at the upper nock (the one not divided into two). It should look like the nock at the lower left of this photo. This is the nock of the bone I used for my own grip. The nocks in the photo are all from bones I experimented with before finding the right one. The nock on the upper left is from an adult's hind leg and the two on the right are from forelegs. The forelegs have a 'D' section, whereas the hind legs have a round or roughly square section with a small internal space which makes them ideal for this use.
If your bone turns out to be from a foreleg or is too big, don't panic. The guard of my handle is made from the cannon bone of an adult's foreleg.
I hope this helps.
Crispvs
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