M. Dem\'s Calceus

[Neuraleanus]

I guess calcei like the ones found at Mainz would be ok, too.

I did not know that the calcei from Mainz went back that early. Here are the pair that I made last year. You will need to first construct a pair of lasts. I made mine from 2x6 lumber. I did not get the lasts perfectly symmetrical and hence my boots aren't perfectly symmetrical either.

You need to very carefully put these on as the goat skin can tear quite easily. I included a bit more reinforcement on the inside to help guard against this. With the exception of gluing on the out-soles I followed the procedure of Martin's How-to.

[M. Demetrius]

Thanks for that. How closely the lasts match the actual shape of the foot will determine how well the shoes fit, I reckon...right?

How far up the foot "cankle" do they go? That is, how much of the leg is needed? Just to the ankle, or up a ways? Seems like the Jared Fleury (Florentinus) multipiece type makes a lot of sense. I have wood and tools to cut it. That will help make any kind of shoes, too.

Tomorrow the wood cutting begins.

[Neuraleanus]

How far up the foot "cankle" do they go? That is, how much of the leg is needed? Just to the ankle, or up a ways?

These are my lasts:

It would probably been better to make the lasts higher going up the ankle. As they are, made from one piece of wood with only the front of the boot as a guide, I had to guess on how tightly to pull over the upper onto the last. I judged that by eye. It all depends upon how much wood working you're willing to do.

[Martin Moser]

How closely the lasts match the actual shape of the foot will determine how well the shoes fit, I reckon...right?

To a degree, yes. But you do not need a 3D copy of your feet. More important is that some measurements (length, circumference at a few points) are somewhat correct. Also take into consideration whether you want to wear them with socks or not! And a tip on cutting the outer sole - cut it out roughly and too wide/long. Then trim the edges after the shoe is done and before nailing..

How far up the foot "cankle" do they go? That is, how much of the leg is needed? Just to the ankle, or up a ways? Seems like the Jared Fleury (Florentinus) multipiece type makes a lot of sense.

Lasts like the ones Lee shows certainly work, but if you have them up to about the ankle, getting the size right according to your measurements is easier.
Probably you already have seen it, but if not there are some detail pics on making a calceus here.

[M. Demetrius]

Ok. One more question. I have very limited finances for the time being, but I need finished shoes by Mar 1, so there wouldn't be time to order any new leather in, even if I did have the cash to buy it.

I have a medium weight deerskin in that common "smoke" color, and some soft "deer-tanned cowhide" about 4mm thick (more or less like elk in look and texture), and some 2mm veg tanned cowhide. I have enough leather of any of these to make the shoes from any of these. Knowing goat skin is the more likely choice, but not having access to it right now, which would be your recommendation, men?

Today will be the day to do a quick pottery project (mortarium) and the wood lasts. Tonight is booked up. Tomorrow, I hope to start cutting leather and sewing Mainz calcei.

[Martin Moser]

I have a medium weight deerskin in that common "smoke" color, and some soft "deer-tanned cowhide" about 4mm thick (more or less like elk in look and texture), and some 2mm veg tanned cowhide. I have enough leather of any of these to make the shoes from any of these. Knowing goat skin is the more likely choice, but not having access to it right now, which would be your recommendation, men?

Normally the deer skin is softer than the cowhide. That makes it easier to work with and that's what I'd recommend.

[Sutoris]

Demetrii

Here is a hint on making the tunnel stitches. First soak the out-sole in hot water, preferably over night.

You soak the sole to soften the leather, do you use the very dens sole leather perhaps?


Filip

[Neuraleanus]

do you use the very dens sole leather perhaps?

Yes, I use "bends" for out-soles. This is leather that has been compressed, specifically for shoe soles, and is very hard.

[Sutoris]

Yes, I use "bends" for out-soles.

O.K. that would explain the soaking over night.
Would it be a big difference to use a tooling leather?
The hobnails would take the wear anyway.

Filip

[M. Demetrius]

I think you're right about the hobnails taking the wear. And really, the inner layers of the outsole could be just about any kind of leather, as they mostly provide spacing for the shanks of the nails. I plan to cement more than one layer of leather, since most of what I have isn't very thick.

I'm closing in on the shoe lasts, and expect to have them finished by this evening, then I'll cut the soles oversize, glue them together and trim them down to real dimension on the bandsaw, cutting all the layers at once. Hope that works. The test did fine. Lots easier than cutting with any kind of knife.

I know it may be more common to go the other way, but I'm really looking hard at putting the smooth side of the leather out. Aesthetically, I like it better, and if there were some that way, that should be ok, right? Nobody will beat me up over it, I think.

[Sutoris]

Well I'm new to roman shoemaking (infact I'm new to all Roma :wink: n stuff)
I made a little Calceus to try the methode

[M. Demetrius]

Nice work! That is reportedly a little later shoe historically, I'm told, that the one I'm after, but in any case, I hope mine turn out as well as those. We'll see how it runs.

What's amazing is how much those resemble modern hiking/military boots. But it figures, seeing as how the foot hasn't changed that much since Adam, you know?

If the lasts get finished tonight, I'll add some photos of them, then start cutting felt first, and leather after I'm convinced I have a fit. I think I can glue the felt onto a sole, as if it were a finished sole, just to try them on, and see if the length and width are right.

[Sutoris]

It's a late first Century


My method of making a new shoe on a last is/
cut a cardboard the same size as the sole
Put the last in a plastic bag, cardboard sole first, and wrap it with
tape(the brown tape you use for closing cardboard boxes)
Now you can draw you model on the tape.
Cut the shoemodel out of the plastic and you can take the last out of
your "plastic" shoe.
Now you can trie the shoe on your foot.
If it don't fit you have to adjust the last or make a deeper instep.
Cut away the sole and put the upper flat on a paper and copy it.
Don't forget to keep a margin for the lasting and the upper overlap.

[Marcus Mummius]

Looks very good Filip! By the way, I send you a personal message.

[M. Demetrius]

First version of the lasts are made. I should have the felt by tonight. The wood might be too thick over the toes, but the felt will give me a better feel for that. Angle grinder with 50 grit flap wheel takes pine off with ease. Perfect surface doesn't seem to be the big issue, so I didn't bother to smooth them down too much.