Frankish tunic and trouser decoration

[Franklin]

I'm currently looking for any info on Frankish influence in the later empire, specifically 5th-6th Cent. In particular I'd like to know more about the wide open-leg trousers I keep seeing in pictures, with the heavy decoration on the bottom cuff. Also I'd like to know more about typical Frankish tunic decoration from that period. Do we have any archaeological evidence, or is it all artistic and/or literary?

I'd love any suggestion of books, weblinks, personal knowledge, and PICTURES.

[John Conyard]

Take a look at a barabrian enjoying the Roman bathouse at Ribchester last year.

http://www.comitatus.net/Ribchester2008/cimg3512.html

The kit is very striking, but I can't quote the primary evidence Theoderic's clothing is based upon.

[Antonius Lupus]

Take a look here. Many of the people shown in the galleries are members of Ulfhednar.

http://www.museedestempsbarbares.fr/fr/galerie.htm

[Baiuware]

See my interpretation of the Isola Rizza dish (ca. 600 AD).
The trousers You are looking for can also be seen in many later illustrations like the Stuttgarter Psalter.

[Sascha]

Here it is:

http://www.wlb-stuttgart.de/index.php?id=3547&set [mets]=http://www.wlb-stuttgart.de/digitalisate/cod.bibl.fol.23/mets.xml

Dated later, to early 9th Century, showing a great range of leg wear.

[Graham Sumner]

Hello Franklin

PM sent.

Trousers worn by Late Roman soldiers are illustrated in I.P. Stephenson's book on Romano-Byzantine Infantry and in his book with K. Dixon on the Roman Cavalry. They look very similar, white, wide and with red decoration at the bottom, to those which appear in S. McDowall 's Warrior series book for Osprey on the Late Roman cavalryman. As there is no reference in Stephenson's books as to the sources for the trousers that appear in his reconstructions it is possible that the have been inspired by the earlier reconstructions in McDowalls book.

However they look very close to the type of trousers illustrated in various mosaics from Jordan depicting Germanic looking warriors in Roman service, in particular those from the church at Mt Nebo. The colours however different but the basic shape and style of decoration appears to be the same.

Hope this helps a bit

Graham.

[Franklin]

Email response from Simon MacDowall:

Hi,
The loose trousers were a very common part of 6th C dress, especially in the East. There are many depictions of the style in Persian and Byzantine art. The style no doubt originated from Persia or the Eurasian steppes as depictions of western Germanic and Roman trousers (4th-5thC) were quite tight, sometimes looking like hose. Actual examples found in bogs in northern Germany confirm this.
Graham Sumner is right in the examples he gave you about the loose decorated trousers and there are a number of drawings which he did of the originals in Osprey's Roman Military Clothing (3) 400-640. On p52 in Germanic Warrior, there is a photograph from the British Museum (I have a copy of it) showing the style quite clearly. I am not aware of where else actual photographs of the originals are published but Roy Boss' book Justinian's Wars by Montvert Publications (now sadly out of print but available on ebay etc at outrageous prices) has the most complete collection of line drawings of originals showing many variations on the style. In the west the best actual examples are in Ravenna, as well as on the various North African mosaics and frescos scattered amongst the world's museums.
The style was definitely not Frankish influence as any depictions of Franks I have seen show traditional German tight trousers with cross gartering and/or lower leg bindings (see Plate L in Germanic Warrior). The Visigoths too are unlikely to have adpoted the looser style, having been settled in the West since the 4th C. The Ostrogoths and East Romans certainly did and, judging by the North African mosaics it spread there too, no doubt under East Roman influence.
Incidentally Plate K in Germanic Warrior showing and Ostrogoth in the loose style incorrectly shows stirrups. This was the artist's fault not mine!
Hope this helps.
Simon