Blacksmith Anvils etc...

[M. Demetrius]

I totally agree. I tried to weld iron to steel once. Not very successful. Couldn't get the settings right so that rod, iron and steel fused the way I wanted. If I do add a hard surface, I'll have a pro attach the metals.

I can probably resurface the anvil myself, but it's just soft metal, and that's that. Made in China. The paint probably has lead in it, too. Sigh.

[The_Mariner]

I totally agree. I tried to weld iron to steel once. Not very successful. Couldn't get the settings right so that rod, iron and steel fused the way I wanted. If I do add a hard surface, I'll have a pro attach the metals.

I can probably resurface the anvil myself, but it's just soft metal, and that's that. Made in China. The paint probably has lead in it, too. Sigh.

For taking out minor dings in the surface, take a large fine sharpening
stone (Flat) and rub it in a circular motion over the face of the anvil that
has a little oil on it, the stone should at all times hang over the 2 parallel
sides of the anvil, this will take out the high spots and not do too much
damage to the surface and will hopefully keep everything flat, yes there
wil still be a depression but all the ridges wil be gone and you will have a
true flat surface. If you decide to get a shop to grind the surface to get
rid of dings be aware they could take of the harder outer layer if they
take off too much from the surface of the anvil and could actually hurt
your baby. Never let them take off more than about 1/8" (0.125") as this
can lead to issues, if you have a dint deeper than this you have a softer
face already or need to use a different area of the anvil when working on
it, and not keep working this area. DO NOT try hammering on the anvil
past the hardy and Pritchel holes, this can lead to cracking at those
holes. You can use this area as support but not your main hammering
surface. Also do not use these holes as a bending jig they have a use
and should only be used for that, the square one to hold tooling, the round
one for allowing you to punch holes in hot metal (You are wearing closed shoes right?)
Barefeet and no apron are.....BAD, you can work in shorts and a t-shirt
but do wear a good leather apron and closed shoes or boots that are
closed at the top. (ask me how I know, I used to do it barefoot, not so anymore)

[Hibernicus]

Very very few folk need a traditional anvil.

A square or rectangle section of steel 6"x6" maybe 12" long from your local metal supplier is more than adequate for most "Roman" needs. The 6" round pictured in my previous post was from a scrap bin.

In the States: http://www.centaurforge.com/Cliff-Carro ... 8CC%2D035/

[Gobae]

take a hammer, (if allowed) lightly tap your "Anvil" there should be a clear steady ring if there is not it is a cheaper anvil and or may have a crack in it somewhere or a large void, both of which are bad.

Just a note of clarification. This applies primarily to CAST anvils. WROUGHT anvils may or may not ring well and this is not an indication of a problem. Wrought anvils are better judged by the "bounce back" method (as previously described by Brian).

[The_Mariner]

take a hammer, (if allowed) lightly tap your "Anvil" there should be a clear steady ring if there is not it is a cheaper anvil and or may have a crack in it somewhere or a large void, both of which are bad.

Just a note of clarification. This applies primarily to CAST anvils. WROUGHT
anvils may or may not ring well and this is not an indication of a problem.
Wrought anvils are better judged by the "bounce back" method (as
previously described by Brian).

Thanks for the clarification, in his price range I assumed he would only be
dealing with cast anvils, but you are correct. I personally will go for a really
good bounce as it really improves time spent on the shop floor.