Reconstruction Sisak pugio

[Quintilianus]

Since about a year ago I started collecting pictures and information about pugios, because I wanted to start a new project. Gradually I decided to reconstruct a Type A and the since I had the most info on the Sisak pugios (The Militaria Sisciensia book is great), the choice was simple it had to be Sisak no. 60 (according to the MS book).
In October 2007, work finally started.

The original:

http://www.fileden.com/files/2007/2/21/ ... u02lp5.jpg

http://www.fileden.com/files/2007/2/21/ ... IM2372.JPG

1) The Blade:

It is a blade with a simple midrib, it is possible to see on the backside of the original and I also saw x-ray pictures of it.

I made the blade with the stock removal method. I should have hammered it, but and believe me I tried, it didn't work for me. Couldn't generate enough heat. I didn't want to use acetylene gas like I did for my helmet, because it is quite expensive.
Anyway, stock removal is easy enough to do and the result is very satisfying.

I started with a piece of hot rolled steel about 30 cm long by 5 cm wide and very important, not to thick: 3 mm.

http://www.fileden.com/files/2007/2/21/ ... IM2348.JPG

First I made a reconstruction drawing on millimeter paper, like I did for all the parts (The next best thing to a CAD, since I 'm not that familiar with computers).
Then I copied the drawing on to the workpiece and sawed, grounded and filed it in to the right shape.

http://www.fileden.com/files/2007/2/21/ ... IM2347.JPG

Next step is to divide the workpiece in to four sectors and work on each sector separately. I grounded and filed it down to the right slope starting from the center. I made markings on the side of the workpiece to make sure I didn't grind it lower than the middle and ruin the blade.
I used these to do it:

http://www.fileden.com/files/2007/2/21/ ... IM2351.JPG

Here you can see some stages:

http://www.fileden.com/files/2007/2/21/ ... IM2349.JPG
http://www.fileden.com/files/2007/2/21/ ... IM2352.JPG
http://www.fileden.com/files/2007/2/21/ ... IM2354.JPG
http://www.fileden.com/files/2007/2/21/ ... IM2350.JPG
http://www.fileden.com/files/2007/2/21/ ... IM2353.JPG

You can make the midrib by clamping a straight piece of metal on to the workpiece (a little off center according to the width you want the midrib to be) and go a long the blade in progress with your file in long passes, be sure that the edge of your file touches the piece of metal all the way. Wear thick gloves, because when you come near the point of the blade with your fingers, it can become bloody!

This is about 8 hours of work for me.

I am going to leave it for now, you get the follow up tomorrow or in the next few days.

[Gaius Julius Caesar]

I used to do a lot of design work on graph paper like that when I was younger! It is a very useful medium!

EDIT: and of course, when I can open the links at home, I will obviously be able to appreciate the work you have done! Looks like a lot of effort,
well done!

[jvrjenivs]

Really nice work Jurgen! Reminds me I have a similar project waiting. Many thanks for sharing.

[Crispvs]

Excellent work as always Jurgen! I am really looking forward to seeing the dagger and sheath develop.

I think the effort deserves a laud point!


Crispvs

[Quintilianus]

Excellent work as always Jurgen! I am really looking forward to seeing the dagger and sheath develop.

I think the effort deserves a laud point!


Crispvs

I just made a huge post with a lot of pictures, but it didn't appear when I submitted it! I guess it is lost now...
Well I will try again tomorrow.

Thanks for the laudes.

[Marcus Mummius]

I just made a huge post with a lot of pictures, but it didn't appear when I submitted it! I guess it is lost now...
Well I will try again tomorrow.

Thanks for the laudes.

Ouch, I hate it when that happens! :?

Nice work, but I already told you that :wink:

Vale,
Jef

[Quintilianus]

OK, second try.

2) The handle:

The handle consists out of two iron parts with two bone inserts.
To make the iron parts I used again 3 mm thick hot rolled steel.
I transferred the pattern of the building plan on to the metal and cut the shape out, two times.
After studying the photos of the original it became clear that the handle is thinner at the ends then in the middle, I have seen this with other originals as well. You can see this on the drawing in the first picture. So I grounded and filed the guard and pommel of the two workpieces until it looked good and went on.
Next step is filing the pieces into the roof like shape. I first scratched the necessary lines on to the metal.
It is not easy to keep the center line, If you file it past it, the piece is ruined. This also counts for the rim of the workpiece which has no thickness at all and it is easy file to much off.

http://www.fileden.com/files/2007/2/21/ ... IM2373.JPG

http://www.fileden.com/files/2007/2/21/ ... IM2371.JPG

http://www.fileden.com/files/2007/2/21/ ... IM2376.JPG

[Quintilianus]

It is important to put the two pieces together, to see if they align. Eventually they have to become each others mirror image.
It is really necessary to compare what you are doing with the original, to keep it as close as possible to the real thing.
Don't bother sanding the pieces shiny when they are finished, the next stages will scratch them up!

Choosing time. I decided which of the two parts is going on the front of the dagger. I aligned the parts with the blade en marked where the holes should be. This needs to be done with the outermost care, because when you drill a hole wrongly, you can start all over again (if you still have the energy). The back piece has more holes then the front, ...not all rivets go all the way trough. At this point I was glad I for staring at the Photos of the original for hours and hours and of course making the building plans.

http://www.fileden.com/files/2007/2/21/ ... IM2393.JPG

This took about 20 hours to do.

[Quintilianus]

3) Bone inserts:

Working bone stinks! :? At a certain point I started using the bench grinder...DON'T DO THIS! The house and myself smelled for days.

I find the sterilized bone available in the pet shop best to use. It is the same bone you can use for the grip of a gladius. This time however I needed to saw it to pieces. But first I had to file it to get an even surface big enough for what I needed. Even then I made the inserts in two pieces.
Best is to make it a little bigger then needed, you can always file excess away.
The thickness overall is 2 a 3 mm, but I added 1 mm because the tang stops at the pommel part and you need extra bone there.

http://www.fileden.com/files/2007/2/21/ ... IM2392.JPG

http://www.fileden.com/files/2007/2/21/ ... IM2391.JPG

http://www.fileden.com/files/2007/2/21/ ... IM2394.JPG

That's it for today.

[M. Demetrius]

I'm watching and learning. Keep up the good work. Another laus for you!

[Crispvs]

Jurgen,

I know what you mean about smelly bone! I gave up using power tools on bone several years ago after I got sick and tired of the smell. I always work it by hand these days.

Are your bone inserts made of one piece each or two? I have found in the past that only the cow's shank bone is suitable for this purpose but even on this bone the curvature is too great in the areas with the thickest bone. Did you solve this problem by cutting the horizontal piece for the guard separately?

I think you deserve another laud point by the way.

Crispvs

[Gaius Julius Caesar]

This is a very informative post! Great work!

[LVCIVS VVLPES]

Great work Jurgen

Cheers

Luc

[Quintilianus]

Jurgen,

I know what you mean about smelly bone! I gave up using power tools on bone several years ago after I got sick and tired of the smell. I always work it by hand these days.

Are your bone inserts made of one piece each or two? I have found in the past that only the cow's shank bone is suitable for this purpose but even on this bone the curvature is too great in the areas with the thickest bone. Did you solve this problem by cutting the horizontal piece for the guard separately?

I think you deserve another laud point by the way.

Crispvs

Indeed I used two separate pieces per insert, one for the grip and one for the guard. The most Roman bonework I have seen consist of separate layers of bone.

Thanks for the laudpoint.

[Quintilianus]

Great work Jurgen

Cheers

Luc

I will be starting the sheath next, hopefully it will turn out as good as yours!