3rd century AD eyelet boot

[Martin Moser]

How long did it take you to get comfortable with tunnel stitching (on the lining and heel cup to the upper)? I've been trying and trying, but can't seem to get the hang of it.

Hm, not that long I think. Make sure to oil or moisten the leather so that it won't tear too easily. Use a thin awl to prepare the holes. You don't necessarily need a curved one for this, rather fold the leather over a table edge or something to be able to do a straight stitch instead. I've made a little sketch to illustrate what I mean:



Hope that helps and good luck trying!

[Martin Moser]

Hi all,

completed another variant of the "standard" 3rd cent type of calceus, again with integrated laces, but a bit lower than the first pair. I used the pattern given by van Driel in Stepping Through Time, reportedly after a Vindolanda find.

Overall view and typical 3rd cent. AD nailing pattern (this one from a Valkenburg find)





Close-up of the linings and heel stiffener

[gneuspartak]

Martin!
What material have you used for thread ?

[M. Demetrius]

Martin, I see the purpose of the heel counter, and presume the second layer of leather inside, around the insole is one of the middle soles, but what is the reason for the second lining layer around the upper front? Reinforcement of the lace loop? Or just copying what they did?

Beautiful shoe, in all ways, and excellent workmanship as always, sir. Double plus kudos!

[Martin Moser]

Hi Denis,

What material have you used for thread ?

I used waxed linen thread.

[Martin Moser]

Hi Dave,

Martin, I see the purpose of the heel counter, and presume the second layer of leather inside, around the insole is one of the middle soles, but what is the reason for the second lining layer around the upper front? Reinforcement of the lace loop? Or just copying what they did?

This is quite certainly a reinforcement for the lace loops and the area of leather around it. Loop enforcements are often found.
The strip of leather visible around the insole is also a reinforcement strip (and not part of a middle sole), helping to avoid having the upper tear were ther is the most stress on the material. Traces of one or both these types of reinforcements are a common feature with calcei.

[M. Demetrius]

Thanks, Martin.
Again, beautiful shoe!

[Robert Vermaat]

Very nice Martin!

[Robert]

Martin, you have done it again!! Great work and I really love the artistic nailing on the soles. Laudes, kudos or whatever should be showered on you.

To you and your loves ones a great New Year! I hope you find time for more great things.

[Martin Moser]

To you and your loves ones a great New Year! I hope you find time for more great things.

Thanks Robert and to you as well! Yes, to find the time really is an issue, though one I guess most if not all of us know about only too well!