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Making a Corinthian crest
#16
Thanks.
"A wise man learns from his mistakes, but the truly wise man learns from the mistakes of others."
Chris Boatcallie
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#17
How hard is it to solder the set up that Mathew Amt uses for his Corinthian? I have some, and by some I mean a little welding experience, but never with brass. Would a soldering iron work? I am thinking about getting a Deepeeka helmet for now to play around with and make a crest box so that if I am successful, I can simply make my own set-up for the Manning helmet when I get it a couple years down the road instead of paying $500 plus for them to make the crest and attachments for me. I have already made a Roman crest and am absolutely confident I can make the box and crest.....just not sure about the attachments. For the Americans here (only asking them because they have access to the same stores as I do), where could you get brass solder? Do places like Hobby Lobby have them or do you need a specialty store?
"A wise man learns from his mistakes, but the truly wise man learns from the mistakes of others."
Chris Boatcallie
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#18
Well it not a big thing if you spend time on it.
You can see our "king's impression" on the show your Greek warrior crest and you will see a very nice traverse crest.
Thin plywood and the original Depeeka leather modified.
Kind regards
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#19
The Deepeeka helmet comes with a blackened interior (spray paint?) and some kind of clearcoating on the exterior. Soldering/brazing surfaces will have to be stripped -ruining the coatings? - and requiring work to match whatever surface appearances you are left with. Just so you know before you jump in...
Cheryl Boeckmann
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#20
Thanks. I just ordered the helmet and horsehair. I did not know about the black interior although I plan on padding and putting leather on the inside of the helmet. I would assume the brass probably has some sort of "maiden's head" on the outside like Military Brass which we use to strip off all our isignia at Texas A&M so that we could shine our brass. I will have to think about that a bit. The one thing I cannot seem to find on a google search is whether people use brass wire to braze it. Silver solder seems to be the norm. Is their brass wire to match the metal being brazened? And if so, does someone know the proper name for "solder" wire? I am thinking about a white wave on a red crest box with a black haired crest to match my Corinthian Aspis. I may just take the easier route and drill two holes in the helm. It's not like I will ever wear it without the crest and apparently helms have been found with small holes in them. What size screws and metal captive inserts did you use Athena?
"A wise man learns from his mistakes, but the truly wise man learns from the mistakes of others."
Chris Boatcallie
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#21
I used ANSI #8 x 3/4" long Pan Head brass Machine Screws. The inset is matched to the Screw size (can't remember). The hole for the inset was a little less than 1/4" diameter. Don't forget to drill deeper with a pilot hole for the screw length itself. Mine passes all the way through the inset. Hope that helps. Do the holes (slip fit) in the helmet first. Then match the box to those holes (pencil marks). The holes were about 9 or 10 inches apart. You will have to pull one helmet hole (probably the rear one) into a slight slot. You need a liitle play so the box pulls tight to the helmet. A woodworking hobby shop will set you right. Good luck.

Don't know nuthin' about soldering brass or birthin' babies.
Cheryl Boeckmann
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#22
Khairete!

There's no need to go to brazing, which is more like welding--higher temperatures, etc. Pretty much any regular solder should work, whether leaded or lead-free (mostly tin). Such fittings would have been soldered with lead in ancient times, so you don't have to worry about the color of the solder matching the brass or bronze of the helmet. Excess solder can be filed off easily, so it hardly shows. I don't remember what I used, might have been flux-core electronics solder. I generally use a propane torch for soldering, but a soldering iron will probably work.

Deepeeka probably started painting the inside black because someone told them that IRON helmets would have been black from the forge inside. You can remove as much as necessary with no fear of rust, eh?

For the block itself, I started by tracing the outline of the helmet onto cardboard, though I don't remember how I did that! Might have laid the helmet on its side and just tried to keep a pencil vertical as I traced, might have used a lamp to cast a shadow. Anyway, cut out the initial shape on cardboard and fit and trim repeatedly until it matches very nicely. Then draw a matching curve 1-1/2 inches out from that to get the outline of your crest box--or 2 inches or whatever you choose. I'm pretty sure the height of the block should be pretty much the same from front to back, not taller in the front as Deepeeka does. But check the vase paintings!

I'm seeing some GREAT crests, here!! Have fun,

Matthew
Matthew Amt (Quintus)
Legio XX, USA
<a class="postlink" href="http://www.larp.com/legioxx/">http://www.larp.com/legioxx/
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#23
Ave,

I made a crest for my Roman Attic Helmet... although Roman, the concept is pretty much the same as the Roman Attic helmet was Hellenisticly inspired and I made the Attic from a Corinthian helmet by cutting off the face guard and reshaping the cheek guards.

First I used a contour gauge to get the shape of the helmet, transferred it to the 2x4 and cut it out. (For a longer Corinthian crest, you should pick up a larger contour gauge.)

[Image: IMG_4211.JPG]

Next I measured up 2", cut that out too, and cut the ends on an angle.

[Image: IMG_4215.JPG]

Lastly I used my Dremel to cut out the curve so that the crest block would better fit the rounded helmet.

[Image: IMG_4219.JPG]
Vale!

Antonivs Marivs Congianocvs
aka_ANTH0NY_C0NGIAN0

My ancient coin collection:
[url:3lgwsbe7]http://www.congiano.com/MyCoins/index.htm[/url]
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#24
I embossed and cut out the crest plates and attach all the embossed brass work, using cold wielding, to the wooden crest block

[Image: IMG_4282.JPG]

I drilled the holes to attach the crest. Note, I placed duct tape over the helmet just incase I slipped while drilling

[Image: Picture%20019.jpg]

I picked up white Ostrich Plumes on EBay for $22.99 to finish off the crest

[Image: helmIMG_5073.jpg]
Vale!

Antonivs Marivs Congianocvs
aka_ANTH0NY_C0NGIAN0

My ancient coin collection:
[url:3lgwsbe7]http://www.congiano.com/MyCoins/index.htm[/url]
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#25
I spaced out the feathers:

[Image: helmIMG_5074.jpg]

And ended up with this:

[Image: helmIMG_5078.jpg]

If you want to see more details... I took many photos as I made the helmet including the embossing of the crest here: http://www.congiano.com/Extras/Recreati ... elmet.html

I hope that helps!
Vale!

Antonivs Marivs Congianocvs
aka_ANTH0NY_C0NGIAN0

My ancient coin collection:
[url:3lgwsbe7]http://www.congiano.com/MyCoins/index.htm[/url]
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#26
Nice looking crest. I wish to heck I would have known what a contour gauge was a week ago. I went through approximately 6 or 7 cardboard iterations to get the curve pretty close to a perfect match. Then I also used a dremel to match the side to side curve. I used attachments like Athena recommended. I carefully drilled my holes in the helmet making absolute sure to keep it on the weld line, drilled and set the inserts for the screws, put it on the Deepeeka helm, and then shouted many colorful metaphors that my neighbors probably appreciated at 9:00 at night as I realized the nose was slightly off center from the weld which was extremely noticeable at this point with the crest magnifying the problem. I drilled two new holes, flipped the crest around, and it looks pretty good now. The paint job is done, and I am putting the horsehair in the crest block tonight and tomorrow so I will post pictures of my completed crest soon. If nothing else, I have learned that it will be well worth the money to let Manning make the crest for my bronze helmet so that it will be as perfect as the helm will be.
"A wise man learns from his mistakes, but the truly wise man learns from the mistakes of others."
Chris Boatcallie
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#27
Okay. It is no Peroni or Athena-Made Crest, but I think it turned out rather well for my first Greek Crest. Here are the pics. I wanted to match my rim design on the shield shown on the previous page of the thread. Now I guess I am about to have a 2 1/2 year wait for a Manning Bronze Helm, but this will have to hold me over.
"A wise man learns from his mistakes, but the truly wise man learns from the mistakes of others."
Chris Boatcallie
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#28
Well done!It turned out well.I also wait for my manning to start the crest myself,and all this info is very useful to me.I like that you have prefered a not so high crest box,which is more accurate.Many re-enactors and even manning prefer high crest boces and high plumes,that is not very accurate actually.
A picture of you with your shield and helmet would also be nice.
Giannis K. Hoplite
a.k.a.:Giannis Kadoglou
a.k.a.:Thorax
[Image: -side-1.gif]
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#29
Well done. The Hylleis Doric clan decorators woud definetlu aprove of your wave style decoration.

Kind regards
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#30
Ooooh!! That turned out well! Nicely done.
Cheryl Boeckmann
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