Lengthing A Short Tang

[brennivs - tony drake]

I have noticed some threads on tangs that are too short D D D D
Regards Brennivs

[Aetius Helvius Merula]

Yeah, I'm on that project now. Got the end of the sword's tang stepped down and a piece of bar stock stepped down to match, but I'm doing my homework on brazing before I do anything else. And of course I'll do a few practice runs to be sure. I don't have the resources to do anything but braze.

I'd really appreciate any sagacious words you could offer, Tony!

[Tarbicus]

While we wait for Tony's tutorial (I'm looking forward to it), here's an online book on the subject of brazing:
http://www.handyharmancanada.com/TheBra ... /bbook.htm

[M. Demetrius]

Great link, Tarbicus!

(not the much sought after and famous "Missing Link", but a good one nonetheless) :lol:

[maius]

Thanks Tony, i would be very interested in viewing your tutorial.

Maius/Bill

[Gaius Julius Caesar]

Just what the docktor ordered....

[brennivs - tony drake]

Great D
Regards Brennivs

[brennivs - tony drake]

I have started the riveting/brazeing got so far then camera batteries went flat arrrrrrrr :twisted: so as soon as they are charged Ill post what I ve done so far,both pieces are riveted togther so I can show up to that point.I intend to show without any fancy gear a cheap way of sorting this problem
Regards Brennivs

[brennivs - tony drake]

Ha camera a go
First step is to cut the join I have done 2 types a square joint and a undercut joint I hope you can see in pic.Drill both ends of the join first .Offer both ends and markup the holes and drill.I have counter sunk two holes on one side ,the other just one to show the different finishes.

The 2 types of join.I have just used standered nails as rivets, showen against a commercial rivet.

I cut the head of one nail and put it through the hole that has been counter sunk on both sides.I leave aprox 1/8 th inch above the surface,note make sure the nail has a flat surface before peaning over. Join both pieces together put nail in other hole to hold piece in place.

Regards Brennivs

[brennivs - tony drake]

The other rivet I left the head of the nail on. I cut the excess of both nails on the other side again 1/8 th and peaned over both heads.

This will make a flush finish to the surface,so you can slide a insurted hand gaurd plate down if you are fitting one

As you can see on the other side, the left hand rivet is slightly raised with the nail head on against the flush one next to it.Depending on how wide the tang is use as heavy a nail as possible to join the two pieces and try to drill a hole as the same diamter as the nail.
I hope you can follow this If you think the join is strong enough for what you want then dont bother brazeing ,I would recomened the join that has been undercut for both sides for this.
Otherwise I will show the brazeing next in a few days (
Regards Brennivs

[Aetius Helvius Merula]

Cool! I'd wondered if I should braze, as the sword has a sharp point I don't anticipate using it for combat training. But I like making things to last; besides learning things like this is one reason I took up this hobby. I have my pieces filed to fit by now. What advantages does the undercut join offer, out of curiousity?

[M. Demetrius]

What advantages does the undercut join offer

Simplicity and strength, I'd say.

[Chuck Russell]

thanks a million. this is great

[brennivs - tony drake]

Demetrivs is spot on ( D
Regards Brennivs

[brennivs - tony drake]

Next stage is the hot bit

The 2 types of commercial torch you can use on the left is a standard highest temprature rated torch that will take butane/propane mix canisters that you can obtain from most DIY outlets.
The righthand one will take MAPP gas canisters this will burn much hotter than the above but sometimes is a bittricky to get the gas when you need it ,but it will take butane canisters from the same range.Note the thread on both torches is different so chose one or the other when buying.
For the job I will use the left hand torch because it is the cheapest choice but it will take a little longer to heat the job up

The next step is the rods, of the 3 on show the white one is a nickel silver rod.
The blue is a heavy brass rod.
The red is a thinner brass rod.
They are already coated in flux so you can braze staight away .The other method is a brass rod dipped into a flux powder then applied to the job.Not all DIY stores stock this So go with the flux rod
Between them the heating range is from 800-950 degrees I have used the red rod because of its lower melting point, which is what I would recommend.

The next bit is vital you will need to obtain fire bricks ,to heat the work on .This will help to heat the job up faster and keep it hot and will save gas and time
Regards Brennivs