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06-18-2008, 10:55 AM
(This post was last modified: 01-26-2018, 05:57 PM by brennivs - tony drake.)
Today first polish I will be useing flap wheels for this. It would be wise to obtain two of each if you intend to do the different profiles.
Left 80 grit, 120 grit, 240 grit, 320 grit.
Going back to the fuller :?: these also might be of help abrasive rolls on a arbor possibly also good to do Pugios with along the spine the end one is a flap disc for a grinder it will take a fare bit of metal of as it will be doing 10,000 RPM but if you are careful quite good.
Regards Brennivs
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06-18-2008, 11:18 AM
(This post was last modified: 01-26-2018, 06:00 PM by brennivs - tony drake.)
The belt sander grit I used was 80, so I will use 120 on the flap wheel to start with. First just let the weight of the drill and go over the surface, keep the drill moving at all times. Note since I am using a leaf profile it is good to wear a concave profile into the flap wheel and just use it for this purpose. Where as the apex profile, you need to keep the flap wheel as flat as possible.
What you may find is you still have the odd grind mark in so you can consentrate on that area but keep the wheel moving and dont just do that spot as you will put a dish in the blade.
This is what I started with.
This is after a 120 has been over it I know the pic does not show to well but you might see that the metal has a more even surface to it. The point is the tricky thing you need the wheel turning with the point not against it. If you go over the point the wheel will bite into it and can grind it off a bit , not to worry though you can just file the point back in, but better not to dp it in the first place :wink:
Once you have removed any marks just go over the whole blade with the weight of the drill. What you are trying to achieve is ti make the scratches as fine as you can, I will post a pic to show the difference.
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Quote:Going back to the fuller :?: these also might be of help abrasive rolls on a arbor possibly also good to do Pugios with along the spine the end one is a flap disc for a grinder it will take a fare bit of metal of as it will be doing 10,000 RPM but if you are careful quite good.
Where can I get those things? Especially the flap wheel seems interesting indeed! )
Greetz,
Manuel Peters
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Woe Ye The Vanquished
Brennvs 390 BC
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06-18-2008, 01:30 PM
(This post was last modified: 01-29-2018, 10:54 PM by brennivs - tony drake.)
Next stage is to go through the grades so here is the pics.
120 grit.
240 grit.
320 grit.
They may not be much change to see but the scratching is less.
Regards Brennivs
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06-18-2008, 01:49 PM
(This post was last modified: 01-29-2018, 10:57 PM by brennivs - tony drake.)
Next is down to hand work I will use 400 grit paper and wrap it around blade.
You can just grip the tang and with the other hand slide the paper up and down or put in vice and use both hands
This is the surface finish, You can do this as long as you want and you can go up the grades 600 plus but that is up to you I stop at 400.
After about 1/2 hour this is what the blade will look like again it is down to personal choice how smooth and polished you want it 8)
The next stage I will use a polishing compound, but if you dont want to pay for the gear, then just use 600-800 grit paper until you have the desired finish. This is what I use to do and go as far as flower paper however it took days if not a week to do :lol: :lol: But at least the finish was nice 8)
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06-29-2008, 07:32 PM
(This post was last modified: 01-29-2018, 11:00 PM by brennivs - tony drake.)
Tommorow I hope to grind a apex blade with a point, only a short section but it will give you a general idea
This is the pommel Iam putting on the blade it has taken 3 days to get it this far, I did not have a sutible piece of metal to forge this one so I made it from a solid piece
Again start with a template so you can feel the finished article.
As you can see a lot of cutting and fileing sweat emoticon.
This is it roughed out needs a little bit more work
So I hope to post asap on the grinding tommorow
Regards Brennivs
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06-30-2008, 02:31 PM
(This post was last modified: 01-29-2018, 11:03 PM by brennivs - tony drake.)
Today been happly grinding the apex style blade, I have only done as far as draw fileing as the past posts apply to do the finishing
Start with your centre line and cut your point.
As before grind along the edge to your first fail safe lineie1-1.5mm from centre thickness. Do this on both sides first again explained in previous post as this part is the same.
For the next grind, stay aprox 3mm from edge as well as the same for centre line.
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06-30-2008, 02:40 PM
(This post was last modified: 01-29-2018, 11:05 PM by brennivs - tony drake.)
The point is the next step you will need to go over the centre line, but still keep 3mm from the edge then redraw the line back in place for the other side.
Next step is the first part of flatterning the bladedo this gently and keep the grinder moving.
The blade will start to take shape and look like this.
Regards brennnivs
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06-30-2008, 02:47 PM
(This post was last modified: 01-29-2018, 11:10 PM by brennivs - tony drake.)
This is the last stage the final grind wich you do very gently and take your time
This is when you can take the grinder to the blade edge and within 1.5mm of the centre line, a tip here might be to if you are worried about going over the line, is to clamp a piece of thin metal along the line so if you do slip this will be hit first
Do the same with the other side until you end up with this.
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Now you are ready to draw file the blade. You can use different cuts with a file and go down to a finer one to finnish.
This a after a few minutes with a file as you can see thehigh and low spots.
Once you finnish one side do the other, you will notice the reason for the left section of the centre line as you have room to file up to and this will give you a strong apex.
You can file the point into the blade this can be tricky as the geometry does change but fileing makes it a lot easier
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This is what the blade will be finished
Now from this you can start to polish the blade there is no need to use a belt sander unless you want to. But for this profile of blade a file is just as good, so you could just start with the flap wheel sanders and go from there. Just use the previous postings as to polish this type of blade.
I hope you can see there is just small changes as to how too D
If I have left anything out drop a line
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That's very impressive for not using a bench mounted belt sander. Very nice to see other techniques. It's also good to see that people are taking the time to make step by step photos.
Here's the technique a lot of blademakers use if they have a fixed belt sander (this tutorial is for a spear head but a sword blade is done the same way; only longer)
[url:2nl08k12]http://www.celticclans.org/spear101-2.html[/url]
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Thanks Gobae D
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Hey Brennius, I have a question about the apex and leaf blade types. You said the Pompeii blade type is easier for begginers, thats the kind you did here right? At least the second blade (the first was a spatha right?). So is the difference between Apex and leaf style blades that Apex is more flat in the middle, and leaf type is raised? Can either type be dont on a pompeii? Personally I like the Mainz style best from what I have seen, but if you say Pompeii is easier I'll go with it. I just want to make sure I grind this thing as good as possible. I think I'll go buy steel today if I can.
Thanks for making this information available to us all.
-Nihonius
Nomen:Jared AKA "Nihon" AKA "Nihonius" AKA "Hey You"
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