dory

[John Conyard]

Making a tapered or untapered shaft is one and the same in terms of time and effort.

In terms of making a dory I would take a look at iconography which as ever is open to interpretation, place some trust in the limited archaeological evidence giving us a shaft diameter at the head of something around 22-25mm, and experiment.

The point of balance in part depends on the weight distribution of the shaft, but more on the weight, ,and the weight and length of the butt spike and the spearhead. And in my experience the spearhead dictates the length and type of spear that I will have to make. So for example a heavy spearhead will mean that the balance point will be further up the shaft towards the head, and the whole weapon will have to be shorter or else it is simply too heavy. A light spearhead means the balance point can move further towards the butt. And there is no reason to hold the spear at the point of balance. It is easier to do so, but I don't hold my axe at the point of balance, or my sword. As long as I can wield the weapon and cope with the weight I can hold the spear below the point of balance. As I get tired my hand will move further up the shaft towards the point of balance.

To be honest you can throw most weapons at an enemy, tapered or not. As long as I understand the balance point I can make it fly. But a dory is a large heavy weapon and will not fly far. And I would rather keep hold of it.

I sense that re-enactors spend a lot of time and money on their swords, but see a spear as a poor weapon, of little value. Yet if made to suit the person using it, the spear can be as special and unique as any sword. It is certainly not just a bit of iron on a stick.