dyeing linen

[Lepidina]

I have a normal red wool tunic and wool focale (blue and red). However, as was pointed out, in Egypt there is evidence for linen.

I think linen was the ONLY fabric in Egypt for centuries. I can't recall any native sheep in the area so wool would have come with the Greeks and Romans. They also had cotton, hence the term "Egyptian cotton". I think the original Egyptian cotton no longer exists. What we have today is grown in South America and isn't quite the same. Cotton would have also come from India but I don't know how much it was used outside the warmer areas of the empire.[/quote]

I also agree that the wools would have been of different softness. Some people think that the comercially available wool tunics that do not show the herringbone or diamond pattern are wrong since they appear to have a fluffy surface without texture. However, if we consider that they treated the wool with quills or wood teeth (I forgot the term), you would get that texture apparent on the modern reconstructions void of the pattern.

That's part of the fulling process after the cloth is woven. It's called "raising the nap". Wool is fuzzy after it is fulled and the surface needs to be trimmed in order to make it smooth. This is done by combing the surface with metal combs or using a prickly plant like a teasel pod and then shaving the fibers down. The pattern in the weaving would still show through. Most reenactors use something like boiled wool for their tunics because good woven wool is hard to find and is expensive. I found some lovely light-weight Pendleton wool last weekend for $12/yd and I am now kicking myself for not getting it. oh well. Next time.