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Roman bow and arrow
#1
Some friend of mine would like to be a Roman Archer. Now he needs to know if there are any factory's that can support him. Or who know how to make it.
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Jvrjenivs Peregrinvs Magnvs / FEBRVARIVS
A.K.A. Jurjen Draaisma
CORBVLO and Fectio
ALA I BATAVORUM
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#2
You should try this link,

http://www.grozerarchery.com/index_b.htm

I was told they make excellent stuff, and the costs could be worse!
For roman reenactment (up to third century a.d.) , I was told the Scythian adult bow is the best option. I'm planning on buying one there... They also make arrows matching different historical periods.

Hope this helps out,

Greets,
Caius
Tom Pinceel
a.k.a.
Caius Titius Verus

<a class="postlink" href="http://www.LEGIOXI.be">www.LEGIOXI.be
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#3
There is a supplier in the UK who makes 'Roman' arrows.

They are on this page..

http://www.eagleclassicarchery.co.uk/arrows.htm

Regards,
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#4
Unfortunately the fletchings on the "roman" arrows are of the medieval type and there is no evidence for that shape and method of attachment for our period. The only roman arrows I have seen didn't have the spiral binding on the feathers.
The heads are OK so I would buy the heads and make your own arrows

This is a link to my web site where you can see my roman arrows

http://www.geocities.com/overyom/Roman_Archery.html

Aluscladiusmaximus
Bernard Jacobs
Any opinion stated is genally not the opinion of My group or Centurian
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#5
I've been in contact with the bow maker at Grozers and he's making a bow for me and one for my son, he's making two special bows for us based on the Old Scythian bow, widening the limbs and changing the binding, he belives this is what is most correct for the period, who am i to argue and at just over 100 euro's each, he says it will take about three weeks to get sorted and payment is via bank transfer.

Really nice guy and great communicator.

Regards

Kormanus
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#6
Aluscladiusmaximus

I see what you mean about the fletchings. Yours are based on the Dura Europos finds I assume?

I'll have to have a serious think about replacing all my fletchings!

All mine have the binding on!


Regards,
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#7
Yes my arrows are based on the Dura Europos finds. Since I made mine I have been thinking about the shape of the fletchings and I now think the fletchings were made of half a complete feather ie not cut down from a larger one. I have had a quick look at the Dura Europos report and it looks like the Dura Europos arrows may have been made of reed with a wooden foot which is the part that has survived.

I was surprised that the fletchings weren't bound onto the shaft but I could see so sign of any binding on the drawings and I would Imagine if the feather survived the binding would have as well. Of course it doesn't mean that in the cold wet western empire they weren't bound on because the glues may not have been as reliable when they got damp.

They seem to fly well but I don't use them for displays as they take too long to make and I tend to lose between 3 and 7 arrows a weekend depending on the landscape around the targets. Plus if the catapulta manages to hit the targets then tend to fall over and if one of my arrows is stuck in the target they break.
What I haven't yet put on the website are my home cast Bronze triblade brordhead arrowheads and the iron bodkin points

Aulus Cladius maximus
Bernard Jacobs
Any opinion stated is genally not the opinion of My group or Centurian
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#8
I have a copy of the Dura final report, if you like I'll send you the photographs of the arrow in question.

regards,
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#9
I really am in a complete muddle as to what kind of arrows to buy/make now. Even more so than before this thread began!

Are your fletchings shaped correctly? I like the shape alot.
~ Paul Elliott

The Last Legionary
This book details the lives of Late Roman legionaries garrisoned in Britain in 400AD. It covers everything from battle to rations, camp duties to clothing.
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#10
My fletchings are as close as I can make them to my best interpretation of the line drawings published of the Dura Europos finds. They are quite long for fletchings at 6" (150mm) However it is worth remembering that Dura Europos is in Syria where large feathers may have been in short supply and they my have used what they could get locally. Fletchings in the western empire may have been different .

I have made about 10 Correct arrows which I show to the public but I don't shoot them at displays I shoot normal modern arrows because the get lost and broken.
I don't trim my arrows to any particular length because they frequently brake just behind the head. I just burn the wood out of the head and remount them. This means my arrows slowly get shorter as they get older.

Aulus Cladius Maximus
Bernard Jacobs
Any opinion stated is genally not the opinion of My group or Centurian
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#11
Quote: http://www.eagleclassicarchery.co.uk/arrows.htm
http://www.grozerarchery.com/index_b.htm

Hi
I had a chance to take those arrowheads into my hands... and what can I say. They are ugly and extremely expensive like for machine made arrowheads.

Proper done hand forged arrowhead should have socket overlaped like on this picture:
[Image: czterolistny_a.jpg]

... not made on the turning-lathe ...

What can I recommend you its the best arrowsmith on the world in my opinion : Jaroslaw Belza . http://belza.iq.pl/index_eng.html
He is making only arrowheads for more than 15 years now.

Find that his prices are nearly the same like for machine made arrowheads from grozer website and others... He can send arrowheads to every place on the world.

best regards
Cacaivs Rebivs Asellio
Legio XXI Rapax - http://www.legioxxirapax.com/
a.k.a Cesary Wyszinski
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#12
Salve Aluscladiusmaximus,

Looking at the photo's of the original Dura arrows, Another implication is that the Dura arrows were shot using a thumb-ring (I believe one was found at Dura).

The fletching on all the preserved shafts from Dura extends to the nock. If the bowstring were drawn with the fingers (classic European style), the fletching would be crushed.

I notice that your reconstructions leave the standard 25mm or so behind the fletchings to allow for a finger-release. Is this because the western archers didn't know of the thumb ring in our first century time period?

Regards,
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#13
When I made my arrows I didn't have a thumb ring and my fletching jig wont hold the fletchings much further back. (I think I could move them back about 10mm.
I have since bought a thumb ring Grozer sell them but I don't often use it as I use a #70 bow and you need to practice a bit more than I do to be comfortable with a thumb ring at that power. It is fine with my other bow which is only #45 but I normally lend that to another auxiliary archer for displays. I prefer the stronger bow as it shoot flatter and is easier to aim. I tried a 120# bow at Xanten but I couldn't pull it back more than half way. It was a shame as I really wanted that bow.
I go onto the field as a western auxiliary archer but they still sometimes used thumb rings one was found on Hadrian's wall.

I bought one of the machine made Steel Tri-Bladed arrow heads but I wasn't very impressed with it. I put on my lathe and turned a conical shape to the blades and then filed across two blades to put an edge on them. It looks much better but still not as pretty as my home cast bronze heads.

Aulus Cladius Maximus
Bernard Jacobs
Any opinion stated is genally not the opinion of My group or Centurian
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#14
Do you have any pics of your arrows showing the full length and heads?
Mercer Ferrell
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#15
Anyone have any opinions on these arrow heads?:http://www.english-longbow.co.uk/largepics/bodkins.html

At least they are affordable Smile !
Virilis / Jyrki Halme
PHILODOX
Moderator
[Image: fectio.png]
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