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Can anyone give some advice on what is the best thickness for brass, for helmet edge strips? I plan on reworking a Deepeeka Gallic H, including replacing the cheekpieces.
While you're there, is there a recommended way to fill holes in steel? The neckguard handle needs moving, so there'll be two ugly holes left for all to see. If there is a way then I can also reposition the temple rivets. Come to think of it, I could also remove the crest fittings and add cross-reinforcements, although it might be more accurate to leave those holes in place (if it's a field modification).
Thanks.
TARBICvS/Jim Bowers
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Tarbicus,
I spoke with Matt L about a week ago and he said he was reworking
one of these as well. Maybe he can give the info you're looking for.
I'm watching this thread with interest as I too could use some
modifications on my gallic helm. Especially the cheek guards and
neckguard. Won't the neckguard's edge be about where the holes
are now(on the handle)?
Andy Booker
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Quote:Won't the neckguard's edge be about where the holes
are now(on the handle)?
Hmmm, I made it a little bit out from that. I could just go for it and cut at the edge of the handle's rivets. The brass edging could hide the remnants of any holes left. Thanks.
TARBICvS/Jim Bowers
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I hope that will work for you. I've been giving this very thing
alot of thought but haven't had the nerve to try it. If my
neck and cheek guards could be trimmed a little I'd be pretty
happy with it. Let me know what you think about the cheek guards,
that is, how much you might trim there. Been studying the pictoral
references and have an idea.
Good luck !
Andy Booker
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Quote:Let me know what you think about the cheek guards,
that is, how much you might trim there.
I'm replacing them completely, as I can't see a way to get the line closest to the ear to go backwards before continuing down the jawline. Or rather, the only thing I could think of was to reposition the cheekguards bacwards and cut the plates around the ear. But then that probably means my face will be too exposed. :?
The nice thing about replacing them is I can make them very asymmetrical like the original.
TARBICvS/Jim Bowers
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To hide the holes you could have someone weld them up, or easily use countersunk rivets to fill them up.
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Ave Tarbicvs,
I don't see why brass thicker than 0.4mm (0.016") would be necessary for edging- it's just decorative afterall. I've always just re-used the edging on the helmet I'm re-working thus far though. As for the holes a little welding and some grinding should hide them- I've also just put rivets in them too.
Matt
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Thanks guys, questions answered.
All sorted now I think
TARBICvS/Jim Bowers
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Occassionally I misjudge where I drill/punch a hole and am forced to repair it before I put it where it should be. There are 2 basic methods...
First is to weld the spot and then grind it down flush...
Second is to use a pein hammer with the piece over a mushroom stake. It helps to think of steel as clay... as you are going to start from about 1" diameter out from the hole, and with the hammer at about a 45 degree angle pointing towards the hole, start pushing the material towards the hole. This will close the hole with existing steel. Note, you will most likely have to anneal the area, or even work it hot should you want to quicken the procedure.accomplish this in one pass.
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pictures when your done remmeber
Tiberius Claudius Lupus
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No Roman would ever try and disguise a cock-up - it would just be left 'as is'.
The helmet piping from South Cadbury ranged in thickness from 0.2mm to 0.4mm, with the median (and mode) being 0.2mm.
Trim like this was not just decorative, but served to save anybody having to finish the edges of the helmet properly. Easier to get some numpty to cut up and fold over some brass sheet and attach it, rather than spend loads of time finishing the edges.
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Oh absolutely- unrolled sheet steel edges can be quite dangerous. I read once of an SCA fighter the neck of whose armor had been insufficiently rolled or not at all and it nearly severed his carotid artery after a blow...
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