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Scutum detailing - Steve Schonberger - 12-19-2006
I'm making progress on my scutum, and it's getting to the point where I need to decide on some specific details.
First, I know that rivets are appropriate for attaching the boss to the rest of the scutum. Would this sort of rivet be OK?
Second, I know I'll need something to attach my brass rims (made from the thinnest brass Online Metals stocks) to the edge of the scutum. Would I want to use the same sort of rivet, some other kind of rivet, or a bent-over nail?
Third, I would like the back braces securely attached to the main scutum board (two layers of door-skin plywood -- not the most realistic, but I'm new at this). Would more rivets be supported by archaeological record, contrary to the record, or neither supported nor contradicted? Would some other mechanical fastener be reasonable, in addition to the glue (Elmer's wood glue) I'm already using?
Fourth, what methods of decorating the front are reasonable? I'd prefer to avoid painting directly onto the facing fabric (inauthentic but inexpensive quilting cotton that looks a lot like linen), because I don't think my hands are steady enough to avoid ugly slips. Would it be reasonable to cut the decorations from separate pieces of fabric, paint them instead, and glue them (if I get them right) onto the facing fabric? What about embroidering the patterns onto separate fabric, which offers sharper contrast, doesn't run while paint dries, and doesn't require special tricks to trace the decoration pattern?
Fifth, what sort of patterns are appropriate for the front decoration? I don't have a specific period in mind, beyond making the full set of gear look reasonably self-consistent. The scutum has a small Deepeeka boss (SoulOfTheWarrior AH6752B, small but inexpensive, and ordered before I figured out how to hammer brass correctly). It goes with a FindItArmory Pompeii gladius (SDK1171, bargain-priced but nice), Deepeeka lorica segmentata and Gallic G helmet (SoulOfTheWarrior AH3851 and AH6052N), Soul of the Warrior balteus, and the crappy vinyl caligae I made (they look OK from a distance but not up close) from the Legio XX pattern.
I thought about using the Legio XX design, since the web site has such nice patterns, but I'm not near their geographic area so it wouldn't really fit in if I join a group. I also thought about the Legio IX Hispana pattern, since I live in Washington and their site says they cover California, Oregon, and Washington, but as far as I can tell there aren't any chapters active in Washington. So best might be to just choose a pattern that fits best with the other gear and doesn't advertise me as part of a group that I don't march with.
Re: Scutum detailing - Peroni - 12-19-2006
I see no problem with using the copper saddlers rivets. Try to avoid using the perfectly round washers though!
You may find that once it's set, if you tap a hammer (Ball pein end) around the rim of the head, it will round-off the head to meet the umbo plate. It'll look better, AND more authentic.
A bent (clenched) nail is perfect for the brass edging.
We only have one surviving example of a curved scutum, and I'm pretty certain that the batons are just glued-on - no extra rivets. Again, a clenched nail would work too.
Quote:Would it be reasonable to cut the decorations from separate pieces of fabric, paint them instead, and glue them (if I get them right) onto the facing fabric?
No, not really! :?
Re: Scutum detailing - M. Demetrius - 12-19-2006
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Quote:We only have one surviving example of a curved scutum, and I'm pretty certain that the batons are just glued-on - no extra rivets. Again, a clenched nail would work too.You're right about that. I've had the wood split where the nail/rivet went through. Usually, there's some tension between the curved stick and the shield blank, at least in mine, as the wood doesn't really like to behave the way I want it to. A split support stick gives less support. Glue and clamps. Lots of clamps sometimes, or put the shield back on the bender while the support sticks' glue dries.
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I have found that it's generally best to use the same kind of metal for the rivet, washer and the boss. There's a process called electrogalvanic response, which seems fairly complicated on the "science" end, but the effect is, different metals put in contact with each other will promote oxidation. A copper rivet in an iron-based boss will probably require constant maintenance to keep ugly rust off the iron, for example.
One reasonable substitute for big steel rivets (which I had trouble finding around here) works like this:
Get a set of 1/4" (6mm?) carriage bolts, the sort that has the square shank under the head, the number depends on how many you want to use for your boss. 4 would probably be a minimum. Grind off the letters and such on the head, and make the head about half as thick as it is when you buy it. Shine it up, or finish that part the same as the boss. Brass bolts are available in the plumbing department. Brass grinds and peens just fine, but wear a leather glove if you're using an electric grindstone. It heats up fast!
Drill the hole through the metal and the shield so the threaded end of the bolt fits easily through the metal. Don't drill all the holes at once: get it into position, and drill one. Then drill the opposite corner/side. That will position the boss where it will stay. Measure twice, drill once. Use the nut that fits the bolt to stabilize things until you set the rivets. You probably don't want to use the nuts in the final product. That was NOT done.
Then drill through the metal boss plate only, so that the square almost fits into place, probably 5/16" (7mm?) You will have to knock it into the metal, which will help hold things still and lessen rattling. It doesn't take much of the angle biting into the metal to make it work. Once you know which size works, drill all the holes in the metal this size.
Now you'll need a washer, which can be a scrap of metal with a hole in it, or a regular round washer. You don't need a huge amount of metal, the less you use, the better the rig will look, as long as there's enough of a flange to hold the backside of the rivet, and prevent it from pulling back through the wood.
Cut the bolt so that it's about 3/16" (4-5mm?) longer than the thickness of the boss, shield and washer. Take a Dremel drill with a cutting wheel. Cut an X into the flat, cut end of the steel shank about 1/16" (1.5mm?) deep. Using the ball end of a ball peen, or similar tool, and supporting the rivet head (on the front of the shield boss) on an anvil of some sort (you'll probably need a helper) tap the X gradually, working outward from the center. The X cut will help spread the metal more easily, and will disappear when the metal is peened. Keep working slowly until the hammered side smooths out, and presses well against the washer, holding the boss firmly to the shield. Don't forget to take the nut off before the measuring/cutting.
Repeat the above with the second opposite corner rivet. The boss should hold itself in place now, even with the other bolts removed.
Work around the whole plate until all the rivets are peened. There. Done.
One thing to keep in mind, though, is this...a hole is terribly hard to repair in things like metal boss plates and shield wood/cloth assemblies, so make totally sure you're in the right place before you start the drill bit turning.
Hope that helps.
Quote:We only have one surviving example of a curved scutum, and I'm pretty certain that the batons are just glued-on - no extra rivets. Again, a clenched nail would work too.
Re: Scutum detailing - caiusbeerquitius - 12-19-2006
I´d rather use nails instead of rivets. AFAIK no original has rivets on it.
Re: Scutum detailing - Primvs Pavlvs - 12-19-2006
Use these nails they are the most authentic thing you can get commercially.
http://www.rudis-kuenstlerwerkstatt.de/ ... m-engl.htm
Re: Scutum detailing - M. Demetrius - 12-19-2006
Quote:I´d rather use nails instead of rivets. AFAIK no original has rivets on it.Nails to attach the umbo to the shield blank? What happens to the nail shank on the soldier side of the shield? If they're just bent over, they'll snag on something, skin, cloth or other gear. If they're cut off and hammered flat, they become rivets.
I've not handled an existing umbo/scutum artifact, but the Romans used rivets all over the other items...buckles, segmentata, hamata hooks, helmets, pretty much everywhere else, seems to me.
But what do I know? I live in Texas.
Re: Scutum detailing - Tarbicus - 12-19-2006
I own an original circular umbo. It has a surviving nail which is clenched over at the back. The nail resembles more an upholstery nail, with a big slightly flattened domed head, but hollow.
The Nydam shield boss nails were the same as well.
Similar to these:
[url:2yswxt8t]http://www.allproducts.com/metal/ucando/29-upholstery_nails.html[/url]
Jorge of Armullum sells iron umbo nails:
[url:2yswxt8t]http://armillum.com/tienda/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=25_69[/url]
Re: Scutum detailing - caiusbeerquitius - 12-19-2006
Quote: own an original circular umbo. It has a surviving nail which is clenched over at the back. The nail resembles more an upholstery nail, with a big slightly flattened domed head, but hollow.Exactly!
The Nydam shield boss nails were the same as well.
Re: Scutum detailing - Gaius Julius Caesar - 12-19-2006
Try Armilium for hand forged umbro nails, they look something like what Jim is talking about.....
Re: Scutum detailing - M. Demetrius - 12-19-2006
Well, hush my mouth! And all this time folks have told us not to use nails because they're "dangerous". Easier to clench a nail than build a rivet out of a bolt, for sure!
hock:
Re: Scutum detailing - Gaius Julius Caesar - 12-19-2006
"Well, hush my mouth! And all this time folks have told us not to use nails because they're "dangerous". "
:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
And so are Gladii, pugio's, pili, hasta, spatha's, falx's, arrows..........
hock: :roll: soon we will have to stay in bed just in case we do something that isn't safe, like cross the road, drive, breath air, :lol: :lol: :lol:
Re: Scutum detailing - Hibernicus - 12-20-2006
I often used nails as well.. part of the trick is to hammer them into a metal surface causing them to bend a bit, much like a staple from a stapler.
Re: Scutum detailing - Hibernicus - 12-20-2006
Quote:So best might be to just choose a pattern that fits best with the other gear and doesn't advertise me as part of a group that I don't march with.
You are right.. it is best to use your own pattern unless you actually are a member of a club.
No sense to causing those kind of ripples.
Re: Scutum detailing - A_Volpe - 12-20-2006
Steve - The rivets on the link you put up look fine - should be plenty durable, as well as the other suggestions.
I'd also mention Copper Roofing Nails - they have flat heads and have a long shank to get through boss and shield.
You can certainly whack the heads of the nails to roughen them up a little and make them look good.
I did not know about the clinched-nail that survived...Very Interesting!
...Shows that Romans had more than one way to do everything!
Attatching the reinforce bracings on the back of the scutum, as had been suggested - wood glue and lots of clamps. Hopefully the strips trying to bend back straight will help keep them formed against the inside curvature of the shield.
Re: Scutum detailing - Matthew Amt - 12-20-2006
I've seen at least a couple rim pieces that still had small rivets, though I generally go with clenched nails myself.
For the reinforcing strips, you can cut strips 3/4" wide from the same wood you make the shield from, going across the grain for best flexibility. I just use a sharp utility knife to cut them, with a steel straight edge. Two or 3 passes, and presto!
Oh, if you use those copper rivets, they generally have concentric rings on the heads. Not necessarily un-Roman, but VERY recognizable as modern rivets. For those or other modern nails, you can FILE the heads SMOOTH for a more authentic look!
Vale,
Matthew