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Sarmatian Clothing on Kosika Vessels - Printable Version

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Sarmatian Clothing on Kosika Vessels - Holly Herda - 02-20-2016

Okay, so I was initially going for the same type of kaftan as Sutoris on the "Show Your Sarmatian Warrior Impression" thread, but I've become intrigued by this guy's jacket from the Kosika vessels.

So my question is, can anyone help me work out a pattern? Sadly I have very minimal sewing experience. (I showed it to my dad, who's my helper, and it's a bit beyond him as well.)


RE: Sarmatian Clothing on Kosika Vessels - Alanus - 02-20-2016

Hi, Holly

A Sarmatian (or Alan) kaftan was a simple wrapped style, wrapped right-over-left for men and perhaps the opposite way for women; then a belt kept it closed. In your illustration, I have no idea what the diagonal cut piece across the victim's chest represents: it's not accurate. Also, he's the most impoverished Sarmatian I've ever seen. Here's what we know. A man's kaftan never reached the knees, usually not much below the crotch. Trousers were tucked into boots, and Men's boots ran from ankle-length to just below the knee. Women's boots sometimes reached their thighs... and they also used whips. Dodgy

Your illustration shows a very plain kaftan but they were always embellished with fancy embroidered strips along the borders. Brick red was a favored color, and all kaftans were colorful. Winter coats were often quilted or made from soft leather with fur embellishments and collars, yet designed like kaftans. I would think you could get a modern shirt pattern larger than the person you're making the kaftan for, then add enough material to make it "wrap-around." They also wore short capes, not long sagums.

   
Issedone (Wusun) warrior with typical short kaftan, embroidered at edges, also a short cape. Making a cape would be a fairly easy "sew job." Big Grin

   
Sarmatian/Alan fibula for securing a cape. I'm holding it in my hand so you can see its size.

About a decade ago, I painted "The Horsebreaker," reasonably accurate but the kaftan should be 2 to 3 inches (5 to 7 cm.) longer and loose enough to make a good wrap. I just wanted to show the akinakes and convey a bold Sarmatian woman. Note a pair of toggles, which are mentioned by Yatsenko.

(And now curmudgeonism from the view of a barbarian-- All peoples extending from the Kurgan Cultures had a talent for "tailoring." Their clothing fit their physique, not like the Romans and Greeks who simply wrapped a table-cloth or curtain around themselves and tripped over their slaves.) Angel

   
The Horsebreaker with her braided lasso.

And here is the ultimate kaftan, modeled by the rich and talented Golden Woman of Issyk Kul. Again, we see judicious tailoring... enhanced by about 500 gold appliques.
   

See if any of Sergey Yatsenko's PDFs are online. He wrote a paper on early Iranian costume, another on Sogdian costume. The latter shows late stuff, Turkic-influenced. The earlier shows Scythian, which was similar to Sarmatian in style. You might find online illustrations of clothing reconstructions of the Tarim Torcharians, who wore fashions similar to Sarmatian styles.
Wink


RE: Sarmatian Clothing on Kosika Vessels - Holly Herda - 02-20-2016

I'm familiar with the "typical" Sarmatian kaftans (and Yatsenko's stuff), but I wouldn't go so far as to say this isn't accurate. There's actually 5 men shown on the vessel, and at least 3 of them appear to have the "lapel" thing going on. I attached pictures of all 5 below. You can see the contrast with the last guy, who's wearing the normal version with a band of trim. (The pictures come from this paper by Romanian archaeologist Vitalie Barca, but the finds have also been analyzed by Treister.) 

I agree that the Osprey illustration sure made that guy look poor, though. I just wanted to show a more "fleshed out" imagining of it, despite some of the differences.


RE: Sarmatian Clothing on Kosika Vessels - Alanus - 02-20-2016

Hi, Holly

I believed they were inaccurate because the initial illustration you posted was by a modern artist, and you didn't post the originals from the large two-handled vessel. I have a number of original illustrations, but they don't show the "flap." Obviously, we are looking at kaftan variant not seen in previous Western Scythian, Issyk Saka, and Pazyryk Saka illustrations.

Thanks for the link to the PDF with Barca's article. I'm familiar with the Porogi grave; and according to Barca, these cups and vessels are dated from the 1st century to the 2nd century. I believe they are Aorsi, one of the two Alan lead groups to enter northern regions (Kuban to the Don) from Yancai/Alanliu in the lower Syr Darya. The Aorsi appear to be an offshoot of the Yuezhi/Arsi... which we're studying on the "Origin of the Alans" thread here on RAT. Notice the presence of a moustache and lack of beards, shown on illustrations from Bactria straight back to the Altai. Also, we see at least one crenellation on a horse's mane (going back to the Altai and Han China), and the "flying gallop" (also found on the "hunting scene" half of the Orlat belt buckle, attributed to the Yuezhi).

The illustrated "flap" or exaggerated collar may be an "opened" part of the kaftan that could be somehow closed during colder weather. Anyway, good luck figuring how to sew a reproduction Smile


RE: Sarmatian Clothing on Kosika Vessels - Michael Kerr - 02-21-2016

Hi Alan and Holly
 On page 194/16 of the article the author states that it is believed that this vessel was not produced in a North-Pontic workshop and the origin of this design of vessel is from North India produced in the highly Hellenized art of the Kushan empire which was influenced by both Parthian and Greco-Scythian metalwork. I know the author is talking about the design and production of the vessel itself but this peculiar lapel may be a Kushan (Yueh-chih) design thing or a peculiarity of the Siraces or Aorsi, although if it was a facet of the latter two tribes then the artists of the Pontic Greek cities would have noticed and added this feature to their artwork. If anything it confirms that there must have been some healthy trade or interraction going on between China, India and the Pontic cities. Also I notice that the images of the riders with the contus, as well as the armoured one seem to have a wrist guard/bracer which seems to be part of the garment on their right wrists, maybe meant to help support the rider holding the rear of the contus for balance while riding while the fallen horseman who I assume is a horse archer has a wrist guard/bracer on his left wrist.

 Also looking at the horse in Kosika Man 4, it appears that it is a stallion. Western sources always mentioned that Sarmatian warriors preferred riding geldings as they were less excitable in combat. Maybe that particular rider is involved in a hunt, taking the opportunity of using his favourite riding horse as it seems that the horses in the other images are geldings. Smile Smile
Regards
Michael Kerr



RE: Sarmatian Clothing on Kosika Vessels - Alanus - 02-22-2016

Hi, Holly and Michael

The Kushan origin of these containers would explain the "eastern" appearance of warriors depicted. (What? No beards? Just moustaches?) I hadn't noticed the stallion. The presence of wrist-guards is something we rarely see, along with the style of kaftan. As you commented, we are looking at wrist protection in two cases. First, as an archery wrist-guard, and secondly to keep a contus from chafing a warrior's lower arm. I suppose if we called them "bracers" other RATers would take us to task. Maybe these Aorsi were prepping for a Hollywood flick... The Bloody and Wicked Invasion of the Alans, directed by Riddley Scott. The film would be-- in Scott fashion-- incredibly dark, so dark the viewer can't see anything. It cuts down o expenses, no actors (just a sound track), no lighting, no expense for a DP. and when the warriors charge on their ballsy stallions, the Foley team can clap coconuts together... while the attacked can scream, "Run away! Run away!" Big Grin