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3rd century AD eyelet boot - Printable Version

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Re: 3rd century AD eyelet boot - Martin Moser - 11-14-2007

Quote:How long did it take you to get comfortable with tunnel stitching (on the lining and heel cup to the upper)? I've been trying and trying, but can't seem to get the hang of it.

Hm, not that long I think. Make sure to oil or moisten the leather so that it won't tear too easily. Use a thin awl to prepare the holes. You don't necessarily need a curved one for this, rather fold the leather over a table edge or something to be able to do a straight stitch instead. I've made a little sketch to illustrate what I mean:

[Image: SewingLining_01.jpg]

Hope that helps and good luck trying!


Re: 3rd century AD eyelet boot - Martin Moser - 12-19-2010

Hi all,

completed another variant of the "standard" 3rd cent type of calceus, again with integrated laces, but a bit lower than the first pair. I used the pattern given by van Driel in Stepping Through Time, reportedly after a Vindolanda find.

Overall view and typical 3rd cent. AD nailing pattern (this one from a Valkenburg find)

[Image: Vindolanda_VanDriel_01.jpg]

[Image: Vindolanda_VanDriel_02.jpg]

Close-up of the linings and heel stiffener

[Image: Vindolanda_VanDriel_03.jpg]


Re: 3rd century AD eyelet boot - gneuspartak - 12-20-2010

Martin!
What material have you used for thread ?


Re: 3rd century AD eyelet boot - M. Demetrius - 12-20-2010

Martin, I see the purpose of the heel counter, and presume the second layer of leather inside, around the insole is one of the middle soles, but what is the reason for the second lining layer around the upper front? Reinforcement of the lace loop? Or just copying what they did?

Beautiful shoe, in all ways, and excellent workmanship as always, sir. Double plus kudos!


Re: 3rd century AD eyelet boot - Martin Moser - 12-20-2010

Hi Denis,

Quote:What material have you used for thread ?

I used waxed linen thread.


Re: 3rd century AD eyelet boot - Martin Moser - 12-20-2010

Hi Dave,

Quote:Martin, I see the purpose of the heel counter, and presume the second layer of leather inside, around the insole is one of the middle soles, but what is the reason for the second lining layer around the upper front? Reinforcement of the lace loop? Or just copying what they did?

This is quite certainly a reinforcement for the lace loops and the area of leather around it. Loop enforcements are often found.
The strip of leather visible around the insole is also a reinforcement strip (and not part of a middle sole), helping to avoid having the upper tear were ther is the most stress on the material. Traces of one or both these types of reinforcements are a common feature with calcei.


Re: 3rd century AD eyelet boot - M. Demetrius - 12-20-2010

Thanks, Martin.
Again, beautiful shoe!


Re: 3rd century AD eyelet boot - Robert Vermaat - 12-22-2010

Very nice Martin!


Re: 3rd century AD eyelet boot - Robert - 12-29-2010

Martin, you have done it again!! Great work and I really love the artistic nailing on the soles. Laudes, kudos or whatever should be showered on you.

To you and your loves ones a great New Year! I hope you find time for more great things.


Re: 3rd century AD eyelet boot - Martin Moser - 12-29-2010

Quote:To you and your loves ones a great New Year! I hope you find time for more great things.

Thanks Robert and to you as well! Yes, to find the time really is an issue, though one I guess most if not all of us know about only too well!