RomanArmyTalk

Ok, lol,

When I was bending, riveting etc. I noticed that scince the girdle plates are the same size, the kind of stairstep out, so you have a gap at the top. When I put it on its ok, but is it right. Pictures to follow later tonight.

There is nothing that states that the gridle plates of a lorica segmentata have to be any particular size. After making a cardboard mockup, I determined that for me, a slight increasing taper, the length of the plates increase going from the bottom up, was the most appropriate thing to do.

I can second Titus's experience, I always make them 2-3 mm longer per piece from the bottom one upwards.

UGG. OK well..... ugh. Alright, how can I fix this scince the leathers have been riveted on, as well as the lacing loops attached and rolled. Is there any way to cheaply fix this? Preferrably not deriveting as I have just enough to finish as it is.

Really looking forward to seeing your lorica segmentata.

I QUIT!!!!!

No not really, but I'm really disappointed. As I was putting on the girdle for some pics I heard Ting...... Ting... That wasn't good. Two of my lacing loops had broken making it a total of three. SO! I'm going to de-rivet all of the loops and use the fold/roll technique for the brass instead of the cut and roll method. I honestly think it was my El cheapo brass but you live and learn. I'm going to have to take all the loops off so what is the best way to fix the stair step problem?

Some pictures for reference:

I have to ask, although maybe not neat and tidy, what's wrong with it? Looks great to me, and the more I look into this entire subject, the more I dislike neat and tidy.

Does it make it inaccurate having the plates go like that, or could it be more accurate? Mike, are you there?

I dont know If it affects the accuracy of it. If it does then it needs changing, but if it will work just the same im fine with it. Im just a neat freak, when it comes to MY projects, you have to treat them as your baby. At least I do. The loops definatley have to be replaced as its been worn twice and three broken loops!

Quote:Im just a neat freak, when it comes to MY projects, you have to treat them as your baby.

wink: And I am thinking Italic cheekpieces onto Gallic bowls... :roll: If you want to make your seg really accurate, mix the rivets between copper, iron and brass, and vary the shapes of the tie fasteners, etc, from what I can tell.

Well while there is something definitely to be said for imperfections in reproduction gear, it's important to remember that a lot was made by professional armorers, so crude and excessive mixing of styles, materials, etc. is just as inappropriate as perfection. I'm quite surprised at how nicely-made some of the fittings in my collection are given that they had to have been made in the tens of thousands. Interestingly, where I see crudeness is in sections that aren't visible- the back half of a hinge plate, for example. Often the extent of imperfections is in the bending of a piece, something not quite lining-up, or the like- they're usually rather minor unless it's a case of an apparent field-repair- those can look quite crude. So my suggestion is to go ahead and try to make everything look really nice- given that you're not a professional armor or metalsmith, the imperfections that will creep in will mimic those you'd likely see on the real thing quite well.

My impression has always been that the side of the girdle that overlaps should have a straight edge- obviously the one that is underneath it doesn't really matter. Unfortunately because the position of the lacing loops is directly related to the edge of each hoop, there's no way to cut them down without removing the loops.

What thickness of brass did you use for the lacing loops Matt? I've never had any brass break on me, and I'd have expected the loops to unroll before any breakage could occur- so why did yours snap (besides your idea about the metal quality itself)? Damage to the loops during lacing suggests you haven't curved the plates sufficiently- they ought to fit together cleanly- the lacing loops are just to hold them together, not to bring them together tightly.

Overall, that's pretty nice work Matt

Matt

Oh I am positive that it is the quality of the brass. I actually think that it is a brass colored aluminium, pretty strong but not armor grade. Production has halted because im going to replace all of the brass before doing anything else. I dont want to spend the time on hinges just to have them break on me. Matt, scince i'm replacing the loops, how should I go about straightening the "stairs" without removing the leathers. The middle leather IS in the middle of each plate.

I have to thank all of you here. If it werent for your comments I would have probably tossed, not literally, this project to the side as I have done on so many projects. Karma for all. Thank you very much.

Karma has been Given.

Ah, colored aluminum makes sense- that'll crack far more easily than brass. You definitely don't want to use anything but solid brass.

In order to remove the lacing loops you'll have to remove the front and back leathers, but the middle one can stay as it is.

Matt

Ive foud an incredibally easy way to remove them. With a whitney punch, find the punch to match the hole size, then find the die that is the size of the rivet head, then line up and punch. Easy as pie!!







Use this method only if you dont want to reuse the loops because it DOES mar its surface of the brass, or in my case aluminium .

Very clever Matt- I just take a grinder to the peened side of the rivet until it's flush with the steel and then punch it through- a little more work than your method :lol:

I do have one recommendation for making your armor a little better- file down those teethmarks left by the aviation snips. They're awesome for making the snips work, but they betray the 'modern' nature of the pieces. They're also kinda sharp, so you're definitely best off smoothing all the edges until they're smooth and rounded enough to rub on your bare hand without cutting yourself.

Matt