RomanArmyTalk

Salvete Omnes

I just returned from the Fort Malden Timeline event in Amherstburg, ON. We had a great event and in my opinion, with the romans making the greatest impression, we certainly had the largest encampment. One thing that struck me was the rather poor state of the caligae that most reenactors wore. I attempted to explain what needed to be done to one particular reenactor, particularly concerning the sizing of the boot, but I was not prepared and I came away somewhat frustrated. Construction faults included:

• 1. Historically inaccurate pattern
  2. Leather too thin
  3. Soles too wide
  4. Incorrect stitching
  5. Non-conical hobnails

I have setup a page on how I make caligae:
[url:kp5c61hp]http://www.legiotricesima.org/campusMartis/MakingCaligae/MakingAuthenticCaligae.html[/url]

But, I feel that more is needed. For next year, I am thinking about putting together a sequence of lessons starting from pattern making to construction that I can take to events. For those further afield a video of the class may be made available.

Subjects include:

• 1. Pattern making (this is the hardest part)
  2. Required tools
  3. Stitches: edge seam for the backs, cross stitch of the bottem back, and tunnel stitch for the soles
  4. Hobnailing: how to get the nails to go in straight
  5. Final finishing

A note to Matt Amt:
Your legionnaire's Handbook is great, but it is time to revise the caliga patterns on your Handbook and to update your material descriptions. You're more than welcome to use mine. 3-6oz leather is much too thin for the uppers. 8oz leather is much too thin for an out-sole. And, please remove all mention of Tremont nails. They were acceptable once but standards change.

Comments and suggestions are welcomed.

Lee, where is the continuing source for conical hobnails? I thought that order last year was the only production run we were all going to ever see, with the Tremonts being the only thing left standing.

Quote:Lee, where is the continuing source for conical hobnails? I thought that order last year was the only production run we were all going to ever see, with the Tremonts being the only thing left standing.

[url:1vmx9kft]http://www.armamentaria.com/store/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=19[/url]

Those are flat tipped too Jurjen. I think the guys are refering to actual sharp points like the ones Matt Lukes originally
had DSC develop.

Sorry, forgot that, as it is cheaper to get slightly wrong ones from an European source than getting the better ones from the USA/Canada, for me.

If I'm right, the better ones (designed by Matt Lukes, indeed) are still available through Matt himself or by Keltica Iron age village.

On the subject of making nails go in straight, I use a small drill to pre-drill the holes into the thick sole. This also allows a good pattern to be applied, spacing the nails evenly. Then pound them in on a cobbles last (the three sided anvil one can pick up at most any second hand shop). There are plenty to be had here and cost as little as € 10 .

Quote:Lee, where is the continuing source for conical hobnails? I thought that order last year was the only production run we were all going to ever see, with the Tremonts being the only thing left standing.

I recently purchased 5 pounds of 9mm conical DSC hobnails from Imperium:

[url:hr1c7zt0]http://www.imperiumancientarmory.com/index.htm[/url]

These are identical to the Keltica hobnails, including the defects. As with the Keltica hobnails it is necessary to file the shank of each nail to make them pyramidal shape prior to pounding them into the sole. A jeweler's hand vise will save your fingers. Drilling a starter hole helps as well.

Hello all,
I'm wanting to make some caligae myself, but I just blew most of my money on a car and on college. Leather is so expensive!
Can anyone think of a material similar to leather in enough ways that it would look similar and work at least as a temporary Halloween shoe, but not cost a fortune (they want around at least $80 just for the leather, and then I would need tools and such as well). Last year I just used some crappy leather sandals, but want to look at least a bit more authentic this year. I'm planning on attempting a pair of caligae out of cardboard just to make sure I would be able to make a real pair someday without screwing them up and wasting my money...

And thank you Neuraleanus for your page on making caligae. I found it through the Leg XX handbook and liked how the patterns were drawn out and such.

Thanks

Quote:And thank you Neuraleanus for your page on making caligae. I found it through the Leg XX handbook and liked how the patterns were drawn out and such.

You're very welcome. You may want to update your links as Geocities is going away. The new url is:

[url:1ejjmnl3]http://www.legiotricesima.org/campusMartis/MakingCaligae/MakingAuthenticCaligae.html[/url]

Quote:

Quote: As with the Keltica hobnails it is necessary to file the shank of each nail to make them pyramidal shape prior to pounding them into the sole.

Why do you have to do this? Will they not bend properly when hammered?

Quote: Neuraleanus wrote:

As with the Keltica hobnails it is necessary to file the shank of each nail to make them pyramidal shape prior to pounding them into the sole.



Why do you have to do this? Will they not bend properly when hammered?

I have tried pounding these nails in without prior filing, the results have been invariably unsatisfactory, the nail will go into the starter hole ok, but once it hits the anvil, the head bends. Thinking about this for a moment I believe the issue is due to the distribution of forces into the nail. With the as manufactured small point you need to hit the nail precisely square, a very difficult achievement. By filing the shank to a long pyramid the forces are more evenly distributed and there is more tolerance for error. Bottom line, this method works for me.

Quote:Why do you have to do this? Will they not bend properly when hammered?

Simple Physics - the weakest point/section starts to give way (remember that the enclosing leather of the sole adds a bit to stability). I tried to sketch the difference once:

Yes I have heard this before about the shanks bending in the wrong place.

@ Nuro- filing would seem the solution. I was thinking of hammering them on an anvil to even them out, but I imagine a file would be easier in the long run!

Ah, ok. I remember using the old wrought iron nails. i would hammer them in through the sole, then grasp the exposed shank (from the inside) and bend them with pliers, and then hammer them to 90 degrees on the anvil.

Quote:Ah, ok. I remember using the old wrought iron nails. i would hammer them in through the sole, then grasp the exposed shank (from the inside) and bend them with pliers, and then hammer them to 90 degrees on the anvil.

The problem is that the new nails are not long enough to do that. The new nails tend to "mushroom" upon hitting the anvil, clinching together the layers of leather. When it works I believe that this is a better outcome, more comfortable to wear.